tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-78718558053490503042021-09-23T08:16:38.696-04:00 Buku Resep!Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.comBlogger1045125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-60123087165785072972021-09-18T17:35:00.001-04:002021-09-18T19:32:20.988-04:00Who owned this pattern?<p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.pinimg.com/564x/97/b7/36/97b7362d9282ebc69c276fb8e88f12e3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="752" data-original-width="564" height="752" src="https://i.pinimg.com/564x/97/b7/36/97b7362d9282ebc69c276fb8e88f12e3.jpg" width="564" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Recently I've had the opportunity to charge ahead on a long anticipated project, searching down some great thrift shops. This has not been easy.&nbsp; Little did I know it was as simple as putting into Google "thrift shops near me". It has been a fun and interesting process and I have scored a serious winner out of all that I have visited so far. As has always been my experience,&nbsp; thrift shops affiliated with churches or synagogues seem to have the best and most interesting offerings. Isn't that what we all want?&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Let's face it. Goodwill and Salvation Army are simply giant spaces filled with beat up fast fashion from the local Walmart. At least, that has been my experience since moving to NH. Keep in mind, I am talking about sewing affiliated options. I am looking for clothing made of fabulous fabrics with sections large enough that I could cut them up and sew them into great upcycled garments. I want tablecloths and linens I could dye and paint and get really creative with. Nothing like that at our Sally Mae. Nothing! and its huge. I knew I would have to hit the road and I did.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>There was the shop in one of New Hampshire's very affluent towns, a town based on old, old Yankee money. It was church affiliated and held some amazing garments. They were so amazing that they were all pretty much small sizes and high end designer, the real thing, not the outlet imitations. There was Lauren, Tahari, even a Chanel, all suit after suit, all vintage and you know worn to Sunday service for decades. They were so beautiful I was tempted to buy one or two to just bring home and ogle. They served me no sewing purpose as they were so beautifully cut and well fitted with small sections of fabric that harvesting&nbsp; was impossible. Five dollars a jacket and very dated!&nbsp; I moved on.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I will spare you the others that were either toy or child centric, so nothing in those for me.&nbsp; Then I found another church affiliated thrift. This was a hoot and I struck gold.&nbsp; The place was behind a lovely Episcopal church but behind and across the street in what looked like an old gas station, one outfitted to do mechanical work. Talking to the church ladies let me know that all proceeds went to help animals, to animal shelters, to feeding them and getting them neutered. Wonderful, not what I expect but a great idea. She said that is what the parishioners voted on and I told her I thought that was really special. The store was mobbed and was organized but with that slight bit of mess that made it fun. I saw things that I had recently seen at antique shops for much more but I wasn't there for that. This was a college town, lots of beautiful art and jewelry and every thing very reasonably priced It was a vast room of bric a brac, clothing, home goods and all just really interesting.&nbsp; I found my place. A shelf full of old fabrics, all labeled and neatly wrapped appeared but in front of it was a filled&nbsp; apple basket. In the basket I saw large patterns peeking out that could only be Vogue Designers. Do I see the last letters of Miyake, as in Issey Miyake? I started digging. There were numerous Miyakes and there was only one I owned. There were Byron Lars patterns, a designer&nbsp;I love who is so gifted and I wish Vogue still carried.&nbsp; Donna Karan, Geoffrey Beene. on and on. I grabbed them all. At 25 cents each, I had plenty left to keep shopping. I strolled through scads of exquisite scarfs, beautiful designer sweaters in great shape, wonderful kitchy home goods and there were tons of lamps, one of which will definitely come home with&nbsp; me on the next trip. Finding this great shop, which the church ladies tell me turns over a huge amount of merch each week, has really made me feel like I have found my home now. Yay!</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jeNEn3NT0GM/YUZTZk5HBbI/AAAAAAAASdk/-aIUVR4ZE48rNK0A7l6sTVCbhfFZqW54gCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0783.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jeNEn3NT0GM/YUZTZk5HBbI/AAAAAAAASdk/-aIUVR4ZE48rNK0A7l6sTVCbhfFZqW54gCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0783.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>I am so thrilled about this particular Byron Lars pattern,&nbsp; &nbsp;<a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/174486672/vogue-attitudes-1620-vintage-designer?show_sold_out_detail=1&amp;ref=nla_listing_details">Vogue Attitudes 1620.</a> It had notes and scribbles on the envelope from the owner. I wish I knew her. The pattern was still in factory folds and clearly she never got to make it.&nbsp; You can see she had her own ideas about how to make the blouses collar. It is an exquisite blouse, isn't it?&nbsp;<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_a3Qltlmc2s/YUZUqSwXgUI/AAAAAAAASds/GFpY2Qohi_Y2DaSRALcUr3bjd5UJ-SwPwCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0789.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_a3Qltlmc2s/YUZUqSwXgUI/AAAAAAAASds/GFpY2Qohi_Y2DaSRALcUr3bjd5UJ-SwPwCLcBGAsYHQ/w426-h640/DSC_0789.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /></b></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The back of this blouse , the solid part, had many curved and shaped sections stitched together and hugging the hips. The yoke and these sections were solid. The rest of the blouse was sheer.</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FKo0DRYmur4/YUZVJAwvfmI/AAAAAAAASd0/4dVaYFrMq8UwqgW-5zYBQmHPaCDNxjF2ACLcBGAsYHQ/s5660/DSC_0784.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="5660" height="340" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FKo0DRYmur4/YUZVJAwvfmI/AAAAAAAASd0/4dVaYFrMq8UwqgW-5zYBQmHPaCDNxjF2ACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h340/DSC_0784.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><b style="font-size: large;">&nbsp;Our pattern owner scribbled her own ideas on the back. Those diagonal lines are hers and I guess indicate where she would use the sheer fabric.&nbsp; Did her sheer fabric have lines in it that she wanted to place on the bias?</b><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4EarFyZrXo0/YUZZBrc30UI/AAAAAAAASeE/rpBlo6AB4Pk2BEd17vDP1nEckgvUb1jTQCLcBGAsYHQ/s5320/DSC_0788.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5320" data-original-width="4928" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4EarFyZrXo0/YUZZBrc30UI/AAAAAAAASeE/rpBlo6AB4Pk2BEd17vDP1nEckgvUb1jTQCLcBGAsYHQ/w592-h640/DSC_0788.JPG" width="592" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Did the fact that the blouse had 28&nbsp; pieces stop her from proceeding? Or did she own all those&nbsp; designer patterns in the apple basket and just never got around to it?&nbsp; I guess I will never know. I do know that Byron Lars is an incredibly gifted man and you can read how he started, his influences, etc in <a href="https://www.vogue.com/article/byron-lars-his-life-in-fashion-and-new-line-in-earnest">this Vogue article.</a> I hope we see more of his work and&nbsp; maybe his patterns too. In the meantime, I'm going to fondle the goodies from the apple basket and make another trip back this week!!!...Bunny</b></span></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-19789799706320610132021-09-11T17:27:00.002-04:002021-09-12T12:25:55.585-04:00Petited and De-Volumized Picasso Pants , #3 <p>&nbsp;</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fUbuoIJyyME/YTo_o9rQdWI/AAAAAAAASbs/e5XVwpv-2qkVrkS5NGR2iyKoK_-8ERkWACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0748.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fUbuoIJyyME/YTo_o9rQdWI/AAAAAAAASbs/e5XVwpv-2qkVrkS5NGR2iyKoK_-8ERkWACLcBGAsYHQ/w426-h640/DSC_0748.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Pardon the weird shadows.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I have just finished my third pair of Picasso pants. Yes, I do love them that much. I did a lot of messing around with this iteration and while they share all that makes them wonderful, I made them work for me a bit better, I think.&nbsp;</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://d2j6dbq0eux0bg.cloudfront.net/images/4488033/881935524.jpg" style="font-size: x-large; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="476" data-original-width="476" height="476" src="https://d2j6dbq0eux0bg.cloudfront.net/images/4488033/881935524.jpg" width="476" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Pattern:</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Once again I am using the <a href="https://www.sewingworkshop.com/shop/Picasso-Top-and-Pants-p113475563">Picasso Pants and Top from the Sewing Workshop.</a> This is a design by esteemed knit pattern designer Linda Lee. She has been designing patterns independently for decades. Her patterns are wonderful, IMO. They certainly can have a bit of an artsy&nbsp;vibe but can also be as simple as a collared shirt or a pencil pant. They all share incredible details, usually not evident until you go to make them and the designs are brilliantly nuanced, something so lacking in today's Indie designs. I love to sew them. They exhibit the touch of a gifted designer. They are also well produced with QC not an issue, something I have run into with other big name Indie pattern designers. You won't find that with Sewing Workshop patterns.&nbsp;</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I am focusing on the pants here. They run from XS to XXXL.&nbsp; No body measurements are given for the pattern but there are finished garment measurements which will easily put you in the right size.&nbsp;</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>This pattern is meant to be sewn in KNITS,&nbsp; not anything else.&nbsp; Did I do that? No. So keep that in mind as you see my results. The design as sold is cropped. Are mine cropped? NO. I am five feet tall. I could have cropped them but didn't want to on this pair.&nbsp;</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>ETA: In the comments you will see that the pants are designed to be made in wovens as well as knits. Thank you to my very astute followers and as always, I appreciate your corrections. I do look forward to making a knit pair. So far, commentors have made wovens. Any knit makers out there? If so, please share your experience. Thank you.&nbsp;</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The pattern is pricey but goes on sale once in a while if you follow the Sewing Workshop on Facebook. It is also well worth it when you consider that you can make these over and over as I have. This is pair #3 and I will make more.&nbsp;</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Fabric:</span></b></div><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--OTBjlIIv44/YTZ1graFkrI/AAAAAAAASac/_IKUsywUO_AfAjvMAZVQKZPgWh24GMbAgCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0541.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--OTBjlIIv44/YTZ1graFkrI/AAAAAAAASac/_IKUsywUO_AfAjvMAZVQKZPgWh24GMbAgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0541.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>This fabric is a <a href="https://www.robertkaufman.com/fabrics/sevenberry_nara_homespun/">Sevenberry Japanese fabric </a>distributed by Kaufman.&nbsp; It is called Nora Homespun. I have learned that Sevenberry fabrics can be twills, canvas, quilting cottons, barkcloth, you name it. I came across a description of this particular one as canvas. If it is I would say it is a light canvas. It does not have the feel of a quilting cotton or canvas to me. It is very linen feeling but is 100% cotton. It washed and draped nicely and released its wrinkles easily. I go into this fabric in more detail on <a href="https://www.bukuresep.info/2021/08/liningunderlining-with-stretch-mesh-why.html">this post here</a> where I discuss more fully the unique underlining process.&nbsp; The pants were underlined completely with 100% polyester stretch mesh in black. I picked that up at my local chain for 5.99 a 60 inch wide yard.&nbsp; The mesh has worked out wonderfully. I have worn these all cotton pants all day and there is not a sharp wrinkle anywhere, despite sitting at my machine and computer for quite some time. The mesh has holes and therefore breathes. It was a great combo for underlining with the Sevenberry fabric.&nbsp; I highly recommend underlining pants with poly stretch mesh. It is comfortable and does a great job of keeping wrinkles at bay, breathing, and assisting with the drape. This I learned from Linda Lee as well.&nbsp;</b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Fit:</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>This is where it gets interesting. I chose the smallest size, XS. It is a 42.5 inch finished hip width. My hips are 37 inches. My two previous pair were quite voluminous but frankly, I found them very comfortable and liked them that way. Then, my sister came to visit, super sewist that she is, and she tried mine on.&nbsp; They fit her more snugly and looked awesome. She is taller and heavier than I am and the more fitted pant look fabulous on her. I decided that my next pair would have some of the volume removed. I did a few things to this pair to "petite" it more and to make it fit my particular body a bit closer.&nbsp; I am happy with the results. You do need to know that the more voluminous pairs feel awesome. So is it a problem? Not really, but I like the idea of a look that is closer to the body&nbsp; and actually having the fuller and the more fitted options to choose from when I make these up. I can see using the more fitted version for heavier wovens and the more voluminous, gathered version for a lightweight rayon or thin knit which is what the pattern is spec'd for.&nbsp; Here is how I went about it.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>PETITING:</b></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lSNuPaGcNFQ/YTtGDORn5kI/AAAAAAAASb0/ApXSt7aF32w6qApbka7H-b2nAtHMhDUkwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2130/DSC_0740.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1580" data-original-width="2130" height="474" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lSNuPaGcNFQ/YTtGDORn5kI/AAAAAAAASb0/ApXSt7aF32w6qApbka7H-b2nAtHMhDUkwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h474/DSC_0740.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I reduced the length of the tucks, a bit hard to see here,&nbsp; by one inch.<br />I used a 3/8th inch seam allowance where the pant legs connect to the lantern shapes.<br />These two moves gave me an ankle length version that I am delighted with for my five feet tall bod. I found the longer tucks of the original design released their fullness too far down and close to the crotch.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>REDUCING VOLUME:</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8VxS_TKuICY/YTtLPIHrxOI/AAAAAAAASb8/mGBc3vuC9Zkt50bDDOMMzmnPLhNsjyI6gCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0713.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8VxS_TKuICY/YTtLPIHrxOI/AAAAAAAASb8/mGBc3vuC9Zkt50bDDOMMzmnPLhNsjyI6gCLcBGAsYHQ/w266-h400/DSC_0713.JPG" width="266" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>These are the original pants with the 42.5 hips. My fingers are pinching out some of the ease. I love these pants. They have a flat front and an elastic waist elsewhere. I did the following to reduce volume.</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* There are side panels. In the seam that meets the front with the side panel I reduced it a half inch starting at the waist and tapering to nothing at the knees.</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* I added another half inch tuck to each side of the pant front as shown in the pic above therefore taking out 2 more inches but just at the waist. This helped remove some of the bulk of the elastic waist.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PcBezlJyb54/YTtMctXb78I/AAAAAAAAScE/23yfMVSHtAsQXKCs0K8ex812MW4LDy7lQCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0724.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PcBezlJyb54/YTtMctXb78I/AAAAAAAAScE/23yfMVSHtAsQXKCs0K8ex812MW4LDy7lQCLcBGAsYHQ/w266-h400/DSC_0724.JPG" width="266" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>* For the back I added a half inch dart on each side of the back, ending at the fullest part of my bum as shown in the green arrows.&nbsp; At every step of these alterations I kept checking to make sure the elastic waist easily got over my bum.&nbsp;</b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;</b></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uZOIzqFZBCg/YTtM6A2pGeI/AAAAAAAAScM/bfZnvIF1aHY3MmGn_jjBN2-vpss8tOzGQCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0734.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uZOIzqFZBCg/YTtM6A2pGeI/AAAAAAAAScM/bfZnvIF1aHY3MmGn_jjBN2-vpss8tOzGQCLcBGAsYHQ/w426-h640/DSC_0734.JPG" width="426" /></a></b></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I think you can see these alterations made a big difference in the fit. I believe the folds on the right are simply a need for the elastic waist to be arranged a bit. Pardon the camera angle as well. I aimed it right at my bum so you could see everything which really looks like I am sticking it out at you all. So sorry about that.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P2Oc-mQfkmA/YTtO-L8IY8I/AAAAAAAAScU/CltPJv7ONRYlnmRNnGgBsaJrHT_CPiatQCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0725.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P2Oc-mQfkmA/YTtO-L8IY8I/AAAAAAAAScU/CltPJv7ONRYlnmRNnGgBsaJrHT_CPiatQCLcBGAsYHQ/w426-h640/DSC_0725.JPG" width="426" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>Here's a repeat pic. I think you can agree, these look pretty good with less volume. Now, consider that this pattern is meant for knits. I am using rather dense wovens for mine and I feel these accommodations&nbsp;make them work better. I have seen them made on Lee's videos in very lightweight&nbsp;knits and their fullness is gorgeous and the drape wonderful and flattering so I am totally confident that if I made them in a lovely rayon I would use the original fit. At least now I have two options for this&nbsp; pattern should I decide to make it in a more heavy woven or in a lighter knit or rayon type fabric. These pants are so comfortable, stylish, and I LOVE them!...Bunny</b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1kQj4QhgEpY/YTtTk_-9LWI/AAAAAAAAScc/rg7vfLFZH54T_OOaymCSs3mNN1O2So2WwCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0748.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1kQj4QhgEpY/YTtTk_-9LWI/AAAAAAAAScc/rg7vfLFZH54T_OOaymCSs3mNN1O2So2WwCLcBGAsYHQ/w426-h640/DSC_0748.JPG" width="426" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-91273968759680704542021-09-08T19:43:00.004-04:002021-09-08T19:53:25.154-04:00Sewing with Odd Textiles<p>&nbsp;<span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I am not a fan of artist Thomas Kinkaid's work, at all.&nbsp;</b></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GSM8ViDhAl8/YTf9Dn0b_UI/AAAAAAAASao/7PE61N1Ucz0J6pgJm8sgYPdHR6ZeUoK1wCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0687.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GSM8ViDhAl8/YTf9Dn0b_UI/AAAAAAAASao/7PE61N1Ucz0J6pgJm8sgYPdHR6ZeUoK1wCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0687.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I do not care for his subject matter which poorly mimics Currier and Ives which I do admire. There is always&nbsp; enough illumination coming from the windows in his work to light up Times Square. While he certainly had a an artistic gift, his vision is far too commercial, never mind artificial looking,&nbsp; for me. But here I am, the buyer of this, dare I say, nasty throw.&nbsp;</b></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bra3uWxOjmI/YTjYjycRHRI/AAAAAAAASaw/w_G1SoqxFDse6M-AoMCL5-sZq_vU2TaZwCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0691.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bra3uWxOjmI/YTjYjycRHRI/AAAAAAAASaw/w_G1SoqxFDse6M-AoMCL5-sZq_vU2TaZwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0691.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>Gahh, it is so against my taste. Why did she buy it you ask? Is she really going to use it, never mind make clothing with it? Heck yeah! I bet now you are really scared. You see, there I was in this gift shop in North Conway, NH, good ole ski country, with about 200 other tourists and saw this thing. Peeking out was it's back side. Now that is what caught my eye.&nbsp;</b></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KQ2jFyC9gZ8/YTjZYGbPn3I/AAAAAAAASa4/JOvX9cGmRN8DlDI1ei8y4ptSdpuljMfkACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0693.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KQ2jFyC9gZ8/YTjZYGbPn3I/AAAAAAAASa4/JOvX9cGmRN8DlDI1ei8y4ptSdpuljMfkACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0693.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The&nbsp; throw was large and the colors were beautiful . The shapes from the front side were pretty amorphous on the back and could be worked around. I would bet the farm it was acrylic and it was pretty tightly woven. I bought this beauty and tucked it away knowing one day I would make it work. It's day has come.&nbsp; But first I had to make it garment worthy. That started with a wash and dry and it came out beautifully as you see it. Click the pic to see it up closer.&nbsp;</b></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4oMQ_B2ROFY/YTjZ6Z8T4kI/AAAAAAAASbA/OUmxSz9iymIrAVls-ExKfctrBwERKMiEQCLcBGAsYHQ/s5960/DSC_0699.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1602" data-original-width="5960" height="172" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4oMQ_B2ROFY/YTjZ6Z8T4kI/AAAAAAAASbA/OUmxSz9iymIrAVls-ExKfctrBwERKMiEQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h172/DSC_0699.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>I had the pattern picked out, something extremely simple but with a lot of style and a garment that I love to wear. More to come on that.</b></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wk759YWBnJI/YTlD96lhA1I/AAAAAAAASbI/M1T3r-qdZVwbB50njbb8wx_cLsINDjPrACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0700.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wk759YWBnJI/YTlD96lhA1I/AAAAAAAASbI/M1T3r-qdZVwbB50njbb8wx_cLsINDjPrACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0700.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>&nbsp; I figured the best way to make this work would be to&nbsp; block fuse a tricot interfacing to the back of my pattern pieces.&nbsp; This would do a bunch of things.&nbsp;</b></span></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* It would secure the weave and prevent catching and snagging.&nbsp;</b></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* It would stabilize the fabric for the garment I was&nbsp; making. In it's current state the fabric was thick but almost too soft and&nbsp; drapey.&nbsp;</b></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* It would underline the fabric, not needed by the pattern but nice to have.&nbsp;</b></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* It would give a smooth surface to land against what I wore underneath, nothing loopy that could catch and snag.</b></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* It let me fudge around with the grain which is working out beautifully due to the design as&nbsp; you will see.&nbsp;</b></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I laid out my throw on the cutting table, fashion side up and carefully place my first piece where I wanted it to go. I put a lot of thought into where each pattern piece would be best cut.&nbsp; I then allowed for at least another inch all around and cut my block. As luck would have it, the blocks needed were the width of the the interfacing. I carefully picked it all up and moved to my ironing area.&nbsp;</b></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WnLxJ70JhQQ/YTlE72zXAAI/AAAAAAAASbQ/gTvpXLSUlDQG9X2230ndS1pSlRxlQ_iUACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0706.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WnLxJ70JhQQ/YTlE72zXAAI/AAAAAAAASbQ/gTvpXLSUlDQG9X2230ndS1pSlRxlQ_iUACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0706.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I&nbsp; laid out the interfacing on the back of the throw, my idea of the back, and then folded it so it would fit in the&nbsp; "fold"&nbsp; of the press. I find this the most efficient way to press large articles. I used a silk setting with the massive steam these put out but first I lowered the top of the press to within about a half inch of the fabric and then let it steam. I wanted to make sure I got all the shrinkage out of everything, interfacing and fashion fabric. Then I lifted the top again, took my hands and smoothed out the interfacing again as the last steaming caused it to move around. Once all&nbsp; smoothed again, I did the actual steam and press to secure the interfacing to the fabric. Seven seconds and permanently bonded!&nbsp;</b></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div><b style="font-size: large;">You can certainly press this with the iron but it was far more efficient to do this job with a steam press if you have one, fast, smooth and permanent.</b></div><div><b style="font-size: large;"><br /></b></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SZCHvW8q9I0/YTlGhrlDzLI/AAAAAAAASbY/u1iWszLe_Uc8M2r8DjF2xGtgrO2Tr1h8ACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0705.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SZCHvW8q9I0/YTlGhrlDzLI/AAAAAAAASbY/u1iWszLe_Uc8M2r8DjF2xGtgrO2Tr1h8ACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0705.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b style="font-size: large;">These blocks were for my front and back bodices, similar in size but just different enough to be a problem if mixed up. I made sure I marked which piece was which with some tape.&nbsp;</b></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I still wondered about keeping the weaving secure and started to make samples of overstitching on the fabric. The jury is still out on this and I will sleep on it. It may be overkill or it may not make any difference at all. We shall see.&nbsp; I do have some contrasting fabric to cut out for the design but did manage to get a section completed. I think it will be quite nice!</b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>ETA: For those who are fans of Kincaid's art, I respect that.&nbsp; We all have developed our taste thru a lifetime in very many varied ways. For those who love his work, more power to you and may you enjoy it with all your heart. For myself, I prefer more of a Shaker aesthetic. Sorry if I offended anyone's sensibilities. That was not my intent.&nbsp;</b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tg4EkWJkcBM/YTlHLoYirtI/AAAAAAAASbg/j7qwSGjXU8whEPR1MIJAUY-xQexlyD6ZACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0710.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tg4EkWJkcBM/YTlHLoYirtI/AAAAAAAASbg/j7qwSGjXU8whEPR1MIJAUY-xQexlyD6ZACLcBGAsYHQ/w426-h640/DSC_0710.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><b>And for my final surprise, here is the pattern I will be making with this fabric. It is a TABARD from Sandra Betzina, <a href="https://somethingdelightful.com/v1569">Vogue 1569.</a> I absolutely love long sweater vests and have literally worn a couple of woolen ones to death. I saw this pattern and it was instant love. I knew immediately what fabric I would use. ;)&nbsp; I will be using some lovely black wool for the contrast. More to come!&nbsp;</b></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>******************************</b></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I finished my next Picasso pants and have a near complete blogpost on them. Hubs and I did a fashion shoot but could not get clear pictures. I tried everything which meant I ended up taking my DSLR to the camera shop. They knew the issue right away and I came home with a repaired camera and ready for another go at getting pics. The weather is now not cooperating but as soon as I can I will have that review&nbsp;up and running for you. I love my new PPants. In the meantime it's full steam ahead with my Kinkaid throw project! And I bet you thought is was a throw away!................Bunny</b></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-53849493503618826682021-08-28T17:57:00.002-04:002021-08-29T16:20:08.383-04:00Lining/Underlining with Stretch Mesh, Why would you?<p>&nbsp;</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AeL1WvhZZNA/YSki-ikqhcI/AAAAAAAASYk/EuyhBvbfPnQBRL1zEI6rr7KYZ6wyt0LBwCLcBGAsYHQ/s3937/DSC_0548.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2782" data-original-width="3937" height="452" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AeL1WvhZZNA/YSki-ikqhcI/AAAAAAAASYk/EuyhBvbfPnQBRL1zEI6rr7KYZ6wyt0LBwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h452/DSC_0548.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>This is the back of the&nbsp; fabric I am using to make a pair of pants. From the front it looks like a cross dyed linen. I knew it was cotton and not linen when I purchased it. I love cross dyes and this one had the look of indigo and seemed like a nice weight with a&nbsp; linen-y look. You are looking at the wrong side, which I never looked at in the store. I came home and looked the fabric up on line and Kaufmann calls it a canvas, OK. After washing I went to press it before cutting. As I lifted up this fabric that I thought would make wonderful pants, I noticed an area that I could see through. Then I noticed more. Then I realized the entire yardage was made of thick and thin areas as you see above. Well, I sure missed that in the fabric store and that just wouldn't do. Do I can my excitement and make something else like a top that I don't need right now? I slept on it. The next day I decided I would underline the fabric and all would be fine. Each pattern piece would have it's own lining stitched to it and would be treated as one layer but made up of two. Now, what to use?</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FdFAv05V0pc/YSkkrKLDhLI/AAAAAAAASYs/fDDhQlCJpNYUjFfXZv63rLW0x6-0kT-EwCLcBGAsYHQ/s3707/DSC_0565.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3707" data-original-width="2620" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FdFAv05V0pc/YSkkrKLDhLI/AAAAAAAASYs/fDDhQlCJpNYUjFfXZv63rLW0x6-0kT-EwCLcBGAsYHQ/w452-h640/DSC_0565.JPG" width="452" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>Here you see the pattern I will be using, the <a href="https://www.sewingworkshop.com/shop/Picasso-Top-and-Pants-p113475563">Sewing Workshop Picasso Pants </a>pattern. This would be my third pair.&nbsp; I had no idea I would love these pants as much as I do. They are very comfortable and I wear my first pair constantly. It is a heavy cross dyed&nbsp; linen.&nbsp; The other is a discharge dyed fine wale corduroy. I wanted more. The fabric for the third pair looks like an indigo dyed denim on its right side. You've only seen the back.&nbsp; I thought, "well, I could just use my pant liners." But, I was afraid they would get hung up on the seaming. These pants are a lantern shape and each leg has six sections with lots of&nbsp; seaming you can see above. I can definitely see my Bemberg pants liners getting hung up between the sections so that was out. I started this project in a 95 degree heatwave and the thought of any sort of full Bemberg type lining in these pants was just too hot of an idea to entertain. I had to give the pants some privacy, some weight and some comfort. What's a sewist to do?</b></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0PT8GRDfdMA/XyWf2xuoWoI/AAAAAAAARAE/dcLWxONSRAIhq2GzHHUIdirngCuy1C2YQCLcBGAsYHQ/s639/DSC_0154.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="426" data-original-width="639" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0PT8GRDfdMA/XyWf2xuoWoI/AAAAAAAARAE/dcLWxONSRAIhq2GzHHUIdirngCuy1C2YQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0154.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Linda Lee, the actual pattern designer of these pants came to the rescue. She is one of a rare breed. Her sewing skills are fabulous and match her awesome design skills. I have found many pattern designers do not have the sewing skills to match their design skills and that's OK at times. There are also many pattern designers who start out as great sewists and think they are great designers but really lack in the pattern design arena. Linda Lee is the Wild Card Deuce. She has both talents and to the max.&nbsp; I really respect her sewing skills and she has many books, DVDs and Craftsy classes out there to prove it. I highly recommend her "Sewing Knits from Fit to Finish" book. But back to mesh. When I was making a pair of flow-y and full,&nbsp; almost sheer slub rayon culottes&nbsp;so was she on her youtube video and she recommended the "power" mesh lining (her term) for under the near sheer rayon. I tried&nbsp; it for my version and loved the results which you can read about <a href="https://www.bukuresep.info/2020/08/rayon-slubs-and-stretch-mesh.html">here.</a> It took a bunch of sampling to get right but in the end, using the stretch mesh was brilliant and I knew I would use this technique again.&nbsp;</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hBrlt6DYVZ4/YSlOh1QL8KI/AAAAAAAASY8/M_pPm-2TbykLDON7COMbaro2KCgKVE37QCLcBGAsYHQ/s4727/DSC_0562.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2067" data-original-width="4727" height="280" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hBrlt6DYVZ4/YSlOh1QL8KI/AAAAAAAASY8/M_pPm-2TbykLDON7COMbaro2KCgKVE37QCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h280/DSC_0562.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b><br /></b></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>Why would you use this mesh? Well, first, let's discuss what this mesh is. It is a 100% polyester mesh. IT IS NOT the nylon tulle that is used to make little scrubbing things for the sink.&nbsp; IT IS NOT the nylon tulle that is used to make tutus and veiling and fluffy adornments for pews in the church at weddings. NOT THAT STUFF. IT IS MOST OF ALL NOT power mesh, that heavy duty mesh that is used for girdles, bras, swimwear and and anything else you can think of to hold in a mound of flesh.&nbsp;</b></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>"Stretch mesh" or "Stretch Illusion" is what is used to give the appearance of skin on wedding gowns, skating outfits, ball room dancing attire. It can match your skin color and have appliques applied which beautifully appear to be floating on your skin but are not. It is faux modesty. Let them think you are naked but you know there is fabric there so it is OK.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Stretch mesh is 100% polyester. It comes in the colors of skin but I understand it can be dyed and can be bought in every color imaginable as well. <a href="https://www.voguefabricsstore.com/Fabrics-by-Weave/skin-tone-stretch-mesh/">Vogue Fabrics </a>carries a nice variety of skin tones. If you just need white, black or nude, you can find it at your local chain box for about 5.99 a yard which runs 60 wide.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Now, why would you use it?</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* It's mesh design breathes and it is comfortable to wear in hot weather, far better than any solid lining. It is never sticky.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* It has weight. Using it as an underlining instead of a fusible to bulk up a thinner fabric, my issue, works wonderfully. Using a fusible for underlining, over time, runs the risk of delaminating, shrinkage of the fabric or fusible causing bubbling, and just not holding up to wash and wear like a non fusible. I will do a traditional underlining with my stretch mesh, cutting it out the same as my fashion fabric and treating the two layers as one.&nbsp; I love the weight it adds to the thinner fabric.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* It does not ravel and really needs no special treatment. My flowy separate lining&nbsp; in the culottes had a raw hem and was serged for seaming. That's it. For this garment the mesh was simply stitched to the fashion fabric with a simple straight stitch and while I tried to complicate it, in the end the simple way was the best.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* It has no grain. Cut it any way you want.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* It feels nice. I like the way it feels, the weight, the airiness&nbsp;in the summer weather, just so much nicer than a solid lining.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* It maintains that sheer effect of your fashion fabric without being sheer. See the post on my culottes&nbsp; for more on that<a href="https://www.bukuresep.info/2020/08/rayon-slubs-and-stretch-mesh.html"> here.&nbsp;</a></b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><b>How do you sew it?</b></span></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">For this application here it is really quite simple. We are going to underline the fashion fabric and a few basic rules apply.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1B786YH_CYI/YSlyOcewKWI/AAAAAAAASZE/ZgxNJdvSw3UM52SAdo6q7ry4Jcj1IC_kQCLcBGAsYHQ/s3937/DSC_0548.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2782" data-original-width="3937" height="452" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1B786YH_CYI/YSlyOcewKWI/AAAAAAAASZE/ZgxNJdvSw3UM52SAdo6q7ry4Jcj1IC_kQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h452/DSC_0548.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The underlining, IOW the mesh, will be cut the exact same size as the fashion fabric and that goes for each piece.&nbsp; You will find the selvedges of the underlining have a gathering/pulling&nbsp; effect on the yardage.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vFsFrgGmsaU/YSl5fIiFItI/AAAAAAAASZM/fLhqm17bqI83vKgp68x-huDcxvyuqgicQCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0544.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vFsFrgGmsaU/YSl5fIiFItI/AAAAAAAASZM/fLhqm17bqI83vKgp68x-huDcxvyuqgicQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0544.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>There is no way you can lay the fabric mesh out flat with the selvedges pulling like that and you can see the big ripples above.</b></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-75QK9eI43AM/YSl5smu6VuI/AAAAAAAASZQ/eNt-kUkgIlgnw8BQJi37BfYR2acwxNsVQCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0546.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2633" data-original-width="6000" height="280" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-75QK9eI43AM/YSl5smu6VuI/AAAAAAAASZQ/eNt-kUkgIlgnw8BQJi37BfYR2acwxNsVQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h280/DSC_0546.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;">&nbsp;</span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>This pic shows how I clipped the selvedge and the fabric now lies flat. Now I can cut out my pattern pieces.&nbsp; Sorry for the moire effect, just happens.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><b style="font-size: large;"><br /></b></p><p><b style="font-size: large;">Let's look at that first blue fabric pic again. Do you see how the threads on the bottom left corner run downward?&nbsp; Each side of your pieces will have a direction that the threads are flowing. We are going to sew DIRECIONALLY!&nbsp; Our stitching will be done in the same direction as those threads. We will not sew against them.&nbsp; Sewing against them can make your underlining bubble and shift. That means you will start and stop at each corner and sew in the correct direction. You may also have to put your fabric inside the machine harp, all to the right, to sew directionally.</b></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fVPBojG5Hgw/YSqtApUr40I/AAAAAAAASZo/VO4n_fx9AWUxdDyS9HDkxZE0r5UggeifACLcBGAsYHQ/s4247/DSC_0569.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3580" data-original-width="4247" height="540" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fVPBojG5Hgw/YSqtApUr40I/AAAAAAAASZo/VO4n_fx9AWUxdDyS9HDkxZE0r5UggeifACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h540/DSC_0569.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b style="font-size: large;"><br /></b><p></p><p><b style="font-size: large;">Most importantly,&nbsp; you will sew with your fashion fabric on top and your mesh underneath. If you have a walking foot or integrated feed built into your machine, <u>dis</u>engage it for this process. Pin, yes, pin, your two layers together and stitch, fashion fabric on top, underlining underneath. Stitch all around but one side at a time, always stitching WITH the direction of the threads.&nbsp;</b></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>You have to trust me on this. It will make your sewing much much easier to do it this way. I spent a great deal of time sewing the bottom sections of the pants legs with the mesh on top. Of course I believed I would have to maneuver&nbsp;and push and pull that stretchy, airy textile and therefore it had to be on top. Took me forever and I was constantly&nbsp;playing with the mesh's stretch. Then I switched, on the long pant leg sections, to sewing with the mesh on the bottom and no Integrated Feed or walking foot engaged and the stitching flew along, was perfectly matched to the fashion fabric with no bubbles or stretches&nbsp; and was just so easy and quick. Fashion fabric on top, mesh underneath, NO integrated feed or walking foot engaged. Okie, dokie? Let your feed dogs do the work.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><b style="font-size: large;">Now I know some of you are also&nbsp; thinking why didn't she just shoot this thru the serger? Well, to keep bulk down and to use the plan I had in mind. My plan, which I used on my original pants, was to machine stitch the seams, serge them together, press to the side and then topstitch on the outside. The inside of the garment has little bulk and looks beautifully clean.&nbsp;&nbsp;</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dDw7K8CqnYc/YSqs1I2NIxI/AAAAAAAASZk/oYchIEnPwmsyDvPh8C1m_mmmNjjQS-5XwCLcBGAsYHQ/s5127/DSC_0571.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3260" data-original-width="5127" height="406" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dDw7K8CqnYc/YSqs1I2NIxI/AAAAAAAASZk/oYchIEnPwmsyDvPh8C1m_mmmNjjQS-5XwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h406/DSC_0571.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The other technique I used, which I frequently do on any underlining is to stitch down the center of any darts before stitching the dart legs together. This holds the underlining fabric and the fashion fabric together perfectly while the dart is being made.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><b><span style="font-size: large;">Care</span></b></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I have found the combination of poly mesh and 100% prewashed cotton easy to iron without melting or such. I used steam, a higher synthetic setting,&nbsp; a press cloth and a clapper for my seams. I put darts in the back of the pants and they took shape beautifully with steam, a cotton organdy press cloth and a ham. The pants aren't all together yet but so far I am really happy with my choice for the underlining and how that is going together. They look substantial&nbsp; with their underlining. I can't wait to see how they drape in the end. More to come! .............Bunny</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-76063301289587835812021-08-13T15:58:00.004-04:002021-08-13T16:08:53.964-04:00The Tee Journey is Over!!!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xw5qlagprUA/YRbG6XMQi_I/AAAAAAAASXA/uS18YcS_x_UASNmLKgIQ_GebQ5Fu16QPwCLcBGAsYHQ/s3507/DSC_0524.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3507" data-original-width="3507" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xw5qlagprUA/YRbG6XMQi_I/AAAAAAAASXA/uS18YcS_x_UASNmLKgIQ_GebQ5Fu16QPwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/DSC_0524.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: center;"><b style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">What a long, strange trip it has been, as Jerry Garcia once sang! The third tee pattern is the one that was the easiest to fit and with the least effort but that really is because I decided to change my technique. The&nbsp; first two could have been easier as well or at least the second one.&nbsp; You will understand as we go&nbsp; along. I did make fit changes to this pattern as well.&nbsp; Out of the three, <a href="https://www.simplicity.com/simplicity-storefront-catalog/patterns/brands/simplicity-sewing-pattern-s9226-misses-knit-tops--skirt/">Simplicity S9226, </a>will be my go to. As I go through my review you will see why.&nbsp;</span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hl1hOS_6FLw/YRW7WZ_8z8I/AAAAAAAASV0/CGVFuH4wrJMKppc0JGGpydWS13_yUNRYwCLcBGAsYHQ/s5230/DSC_0497.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5230" data-original-width="3880" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hl1hOS_6FLw/YRW7WZ_8z8I/AAAAAAAASV0/CGVFuH4wrJMKppc0JGGpydWS13_yUNRYwCLcBGAsYHQ/w474-h640/DSC_0497.JPG" width="474" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Pattern:</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>This is <a href="https://www.simplicity.com/simplicity-storefront-catalog/patterns/brands/simplicity-sewing-pattern-s9226-misses-knit-tops--skirt/">Simplicity S9226.</a> Looks like a pretty basic tee with two sleeve and neckline options. Remember, there is no description on the pattern envelope any more of the design. If you look on the back of the envelope at the line drawings, you will see there is a jewel neck version and one with a turtleneck sort of collar.&nbsp;</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.simplicity.com/globalassets/catalogs/simplicity/2101s/s9226/s9226.jpg?width=500&amp;height=500&amp;upscale=false&amp;bgcolor=ffffff" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="500" src="https://www.simplicity.com/globalassets/catalogs/simplicity/2101s/s9226/s9226.jpg?width=500&amp;height=500&amp;upscale=false&amp;bgcolor=ffffff" width="500" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I never read the notions list. I figured thread and a bit of interfacing&nbsp; to stabilize my neck and hems were all I needed. But you must now be very careful about reading the back of the envelope and the needed notions when buying the SD Simplicity patterns. This top needs a zipper!!!&nbsp; Do you see one in the line drawings? While I had just ripped out a perfectly good invisible 7 inch zip from a toss, did I really want a zipper in my tee? NO, emphatically said! I measured my head, too close a call. I decided to put in a slit and tiny button instead. Watch those new Simplicity envelopes&nbsp;closely, sewing friends!!!</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DTGRqh3sQvE/YRbIMNM2GwI/AAAAAAAASXI/QU0Oo7eCvOg6zyDWYgr2Oh3zLRFeolL4wCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0523.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DTGRqh3sQvE/YRbIMNM2GwI/AAAAAAAASXI/QU0Oo7eCvOg6zyDWYgr2Oh3zLRFeolL4wCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0523.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><ul><li><span style="font-size: xx-small;">I had to contort myself to take the pic with my remote of the back. The slit actually hangs nice and straight as does the back. No swayback needed.&nbsp;</span></li></ul></div><b style="font-size: large;">Next was picking out the correct size. We are getting into True Confessions territory here or just TMI.&nbsp; I am the first to admit that I am not an expert or seriously experienced knit sewist. I love to tailor. I love&nbsp; natural wovens, linens, wools, et al. I have cut my teeth on those fabrics and their construction and fitting. I love wearing woven clothing, rumply linens and tailored coats. I just don't do knits often at all so that means I don't know that much. Now this is where I am going to really confess.&nbsp;</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Having sewn mostly tailored wovens most of my decades and for roughly the first half of my sewing life not getting that great a fit, I was all ears when any fitting guru came along and I would jump on any bandwagon. My petite hourglass was hard to fit. Every pattern was one of two choices. Do I want to swim in it or have a tight bust which would only emphasize something I did not want to emphasize.?&nbsp; I am going to tell you my current measurements only because it makes my point here very clearly. Before I went into Tee #3, I took very thorough&nbsp;measurements. It had been a while and I knew I had lost a bit of weight recently as well. Pre-menopausal this fitting issue was an even bigger problem than&nbsp; currently but there is still the strong contrast and I still want a decent fit.&nbsp;</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Upper Bust-----29.5 inches</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Full Bust--------34 inches</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Under bust-----28&nbsp; inches</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Waist------------26.5&nbsp; inches</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b style="font-size: large;">Hip at fullest---36&nbsp; inches</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b style="font-size: large;"><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b style="font-size: large;">I always bought patterns by my bust and they were always floating on me at my neckline, shoulders, back, etc etc etc.&nbsp; Then I tried buying by upper bust, well that size didn't quite exist so I just used the smallest size and added space at the side seams as I had no idea what an FBA was. After trying numerous fit gurus and methods,&nbsp; Nancy Zieman entered my life. Her method of taking into account my narrow torso and what was at that time and even smaller waist and larger bust&nbsp; and then accommodating my "other" issues worked and it totally changed my sewing life. From that day forward I learned how to achieve decent fit with all those wovens I loved to sew.&nbsp; Wow! It made sewing so much more enjoyable and I was finally happy with my fit results.&nbsp; Now, knits come down the pike.&nbsp;</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b style="font-size: large;"><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b style="font-size: large;">I just really didn't care for them that much. I didn't like wearing snug clothing, and unless they were a real sweater knit, they just did not interest me so I did not bother going to Stretch and Sew when my friends did. I never learned much about them. That was way back when and now that has changed. Knits have changed. I see beautiful textiles with digital prints and I want to wear them. I want to enjoy sewing them but also wearing them the way I like, skimming my body, not tight. What I have made with Zieman's methods just is not the best way. It was lots of work and did not give me the fit I wanted.&nbsp; With Tee #3 I did not use her methods and I am really pleased with the results. I found the size 12 to be my <u>exact</u> measurements. Wha???? But I have been using a size 6 for years with Zieman's method. I decided then and there I would use the size 12 for any future knits.&nbsp; I did do my usual petiting on upper bust, back and sleeves but liked the length of the top and left that alone. I also shortened the long sleeves to a 3/4 length, my always choice.&nbsp; Hmmm,,,, once it was cut it looked freakin' huge. Did I make a big mistake?</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b style="font-size: large;"><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b style="font-size: large;">I sewed the shoulder seams together, pin fitted it and stood in front of the mirror. The shoulders were hanging way off of mine. Other than that, IT FIT! and rather nicely, too. I thought it might need a very small swayback but decided to let that go until I saw the final tee and would fix that on a future shirt if needed. I also did not want to just hack off the shoulders and mess with armscye size and shape.&nbsp; I opened out the top flat on the table, took my pattern and with all due respect to Zieman, was able to do a pivot and slide of 3/4 inches on each shoulder and therefore not change the size of the armscye at all. Yay! When the top was done and pics taken I could see that the reduction in shoulder seam made the sleeve cap work a bit harder to reach the seam so I will extend that a bit on the next effort. The diagonal lines in the sleeves, while not bad, are the result of the cap pulling hard to reach that shoulder seam.&nbsp;</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b style="font-size: large;">I really like these sleeves. They are the best fitting knit sleeves I've ever had. NO bicep </b><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>adjustments</b></span><b style="font-size: large;">, Yay!&nbsp;</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b style="font-size: large;"><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b style="font-size: large;"><span>I did do one further fit adjustment I haven't done before and that is because I noticed it in my photos from this tee project. My shoulders seem to be sloping more with age and/or gravity. I did a 1/4 inch sloping shoulder adjustment as well for the first time. I am really happy with the fit of the size 12 knit. This bit of education has made me rethink pattern #2 and try again in a re-cut size 12! Sewing is a lifelong journey of learning. That is why it is such an exciting occupation.&nbsp; For those who may be reading this and are newer sewists, you will always be learning if you are going to be a lifelong sewist and/or a sewist who wants to sew well.&nbsp; It is a satisfying and even fun journey. If admitting that your way is the only way or that somehow patterns are the problem or that there is only one way to do things this is not the pastime for you and much frustration lies in your path. Be open. Always be learning. Always be open to correction and new methods.&nbsp;</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b style="font-size: large;"><span><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b style="font-size: large;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rauvchtkNRI/YRXEMHs4PFI/AAAAAAAASV8/pc1lBBJ6p-cWQM5sJFrRn9vXVL9qSrghwCLcBGAsYHQ/s5133/DSC_0498.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2993" data-original-width="5133" height="374" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rauvchtkNRI/YRXEMHs4PFI/AAAAAAAASV8/pc1lBBJ6p-cWQM5sJFrRn9vXVL9qSrghwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h374/DSC_0498.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span><br /></span></b></div><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Fabric:</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">This fabric is a blend of 65% Modal, a form of viscose and 35% polyester. It is thin but not see through and has a very liquid-y drape. It is a tiny rib knit that you can see in the pic below which gives a better sense of scale. Nothing curled when I cut it and when I fused fusible tricot to the hems and neckline with pinked edges nothing showed thru. It was very easy to sew and topstitch.&nbsp; It had no name and I got it at Joanns.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TyLY-4ebbJA/YRXFCOWdyfI/AAAAAAAASWE/XkUIDQNu8QEGg_qB7kbr0vmMSXwrpqyuwCLcBGAsYHQ/s4667/DSC_0494.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3387" data-original-width="4667" height="464" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TyLY-4ebbJA/YRXFCOWdyfI/AAAAAAAASWE/XkUIDQNu8QEGg_qB7kbr0vmMSXwrpqyuwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h464/DSC_0494.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Construction:</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>This was really easy to sew but I did not follow directions. I chose to follow more contemporary knit sewing strategy.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>*Fuse tricot interfacing to shoulder seams, neckline, back slit,&nbsp; sleeve hems and bottom hem.</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>*Sew shoulder seams</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>*Apply <a href="https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/10/27/video-a-neckline-binding-for-knits">neck band</a></b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>*Sew sleeves in flat</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>*Sew up side seams and sleeves as one&nbsp;</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* Sew hems</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>*Hand finish button and loop</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I serged all the seams together after stitching on the machine. I used a simple straight stitch stretching lightly as I sewed. I did various stitch samples before sewing my top this way.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ac2zIta4dlw/YRXGbIQEtdI/AAAAAAAASWU/ZjCEIFIQsQUcc3D0-YiKH0O8OsaF3mGHQCLcBGAsYHQ/s4740/DSC_0492.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3040" data-original-width="4740" height="410" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ac2zIta4dlw/YRXGbIQEtdI/AAAAAAAASWU/ZjCEIFIQsQUcc3D0-YiKH0O8OsaF3mGHQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h410/DSC_0492.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>Once again, I used <a href="https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/10/27/video-a-neckline-binding-for-knits">Sara Veblen's method </a>for inserting the neck band. Because the top required a zipper and I wasn't going to use one I serged the edges and pressed open the center back seam. I fused the top 5 inches with fusible tricot and left that open as a slit. I decided to close it with a little button at the top. But what about the neck band?</b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DlzHx5FVrXs/YRXH3a44O7I/AAAAAAAASWk/i87xrydePxwUGP4iYNBOdg4BjlUG4kPqACLcBGAsYHQ/s4950/DSC_0500.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4950" data-original-width="3580" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DlzHx5FVrXs/YRXH3a44O7I/AAAAAAAASWk/i87xrydePxwUGP4iYNBOdg4BjlUG4kPqACLcBGAsYHQ/w462-h640/DSC_0500.JPG" width="462" /></a></span></div><span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><b>Veblen's method has you trial stretch/measure your neckband to get the correct length. No measuring! For this band I folded back 3/4 of an inch of band into itself. Then I used that folded edge as my start of the neckband. I then only measured to the center front. I doubled the unfolded neckband to get the proper amount need for a band that would have both ends of the neckband folded in on itself that 3/4 inch.&nbsp; I then inserted it right on top of the folded edge of the slit. It worked fine. When it was all done I hand stitched the tiny button on and used perle cotton to make my button loop on the other side.&nbsp;&nbsp;</b></div><div style="font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NBuPoXdHNSw/YRanjmoVMLI/AAAAAAAASWs/M7LUnpW4DycxeQincKcLcV1jFLEAjOxEACLcBGAsYHQ/s3507/DSC_0502.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2566" data-original-width="3507" height="469" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NBuPoXdHNSw/YRanjmoVMLI/AAAAAAAASWs/M7LUnpW4DycxeQincKcLcV1jFLEAjOxEACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h469/DSC_0502.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>The hems were stitched one 1/8th inch from the edge and then again 1 inch above that. No rippling at all.&nbsp;</b></div><div style="font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">In Conclusion:</span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">This has been one crazy journey, at time frustrating but in the end I have learned so much. I have learned to never take the final word on anything in sewing, once again! I have some great fitting knowledge in my tool kit now for knits.&nbsp; I am humbled by the simplicity of the cure to my problem. I am appreciative, more than you know, for having&nbsp; readers put up with such a struggle in all its details, more than you&nbsp; really wanted to know.&nbsp; If you have learned anything on this trip I hope it is that sewing is such a wonderful journey and like all trips, there are unexpected obstacles and problems to be solved along the way. We must be open to that and always be looking for our next learning opportunity. I see so so so much blame thrown around when garments don't work. Yes, these new SD Simplicity patterns have their weaknesses and I am not happy about them but I am the&nbsp; first to admit that I needed to try something new to make them and any other knit pattern work better for me. I accept that. Thanks for coming along on this journey. And as Jerry Garcia also famously said, I am gonna keep on "....truckin'...".......................Bunny</span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cx7IxDkQBFA/YRbOs9vLAnI/AAAAAAAASXQ/wC3WDH0k1DUjzW2Qv36jQJghG1OeeFA6ACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0533.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cx7IxDkQBFA/YRbOs9vLAnI/AAAAAAAASXQ/wC3WDH0k1DUjzW2Qv36jQJghG1OeeFA6ACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0533.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><b style="font-size: large;"><br /></b></span><p></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-83596474966314836442021-08-05T10:43:00.009-04:002021-08-05T16:28:02.367-04:00This Tee Journey Is Not Easy!<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h4NBwpmhh5U/YQvpVnW_hvI/AAAAAAAASUA/g2WMBttcyVst-J1PPK1St3D3CswyIwHawCLcBGAsYHQ/s3893/DSC_0464.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3893" data-original-width="3673" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h4NBwpmhh5U/YQvpVnW_hvI/AAAAAAAASUA/g2WMBttcyVst-J1PPK1St3D3CswyIwHawCLcBGAsYHQ/w604-h640/DSC_0464.JPG" width="604" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">All photos have been wicked enhanced for contrast because of the black fabric. This makes for weird shadows and I apologize.&nbsp;</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The Tee Shirt Quest continues................and this was a story unto itself as well. I haven't hit the Holy Grail yet! I do have lots to say about this pattern. You may be thinking to yourself "she is really getting grouchy in her old age." Maybe I am but I don't think so. Yes, after a certain age our lips and what comes out of them do get a little looser but I am not getting crabbier. I just have a lot more experience under my belt at this stage and perhaps expect more because of that. The sewing world is changing and I am not sure quite what is going on with it as you will see in my review. Let's get started.&nbsp;</b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JPyq0nzPoXg/YQvrEN-fXSI/AAAAAAAASUI/16hS5R8FnlcfaA1jR9s9-h22r0ii1tHbgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2626/DSC_0469.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2607" data-original-width="2626" height="636" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JPyq0nzPoXg/YQvrEN-fXSI/AAAAAAAASUI/16hS5R8FnlcfaA1jR9s9-h22r0ii1tHbgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h636/DSC_0469.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></span></div>&nbsp;<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Fabric:</b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">The first thing my husband said when he saw the tee was, "Wow, that is gorgeous fabric." It really is and makes a great tee. It had the stretch needed and was from ancient stash. This fabric, which I think is a rayon/poly blend interlock, came from the Fabric Fix, an awesome Mom and Pop fabric store whose owner hit the Garment District every couple of weeks and brought back killer bargains on designer fabrics and sewing notions. I think I paid 3.00 a yard for this and bought tons. I made a voluminous skirt from this fabric that I wore to death for years at work. I still have the skirt to recycle its fabric. I wish you could see it up close. It is lovely and a delight to sew. It topstitched and eased beautifully.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Pattern:&nbsp;</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: x-large; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GEFvbSebZuw/YQvsghdR8JI/AAAAAAAASUQ/n_8ycDtaKGcKbAx0Jy_ttP3L7zHqv6lEwCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0435.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GEFvbSebZuw/YQvsghdR8JI/AAAAAAAASUQ/n_8ycDtaKGcKbAx0Jy_ttP3L7zHqv6lEwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0435.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><span style="font-size: medium;">This is where it gets interesting! This is <a href="https://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/105626">Simplicity 9229,</a> cute little tee shirt number from "Something Delightful" ugh. You need to really look at this pattern envelope closely, the model and the back. I bought this pattern on a big pattern sale at Joanns about a month ago. I bought 4 tee patterns. Two were Simplicity with S before the number on the patterns and dated 2021.&nbsp; Now I don't know what is going on with Simp, if they were sold off, acquired, owned by CSS, or Design Group, or Something Awful or what but things are different. These 2021 versions have a confusing guide on the back. It says Sizes and then underneath European. You take a look and tell me what that means.&nbsp;</span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: bold; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.simplicity.com/globalassets/catalogs/simplicity/2101s/s9229/s9229-envelope-back.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="800" src="https://www.simplicity.com/globalassets/catalogs/simplicity/2101s/s9229/s9229-envelope-back.jpg" width="800" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">OK, maybe I needed more coffee, but I thought size 6 had a 32 inch bust.&nbsp; Luckily for me I always flat pattern measure. Seems it was only 30 1/2. Now, for about 2 1/2 decades I have been achieving pretty decent fit with the Zieman method which put me into a size 6 with an FBA , not a big one. This pattern was way too small all over. I knew negative ease was involved and I don't like negative ease but this was beyond that. I ran to Pattern Review. Low and behold, the one review was having the same experience I was. I will let you judge for yourself <a href="https://sewing.patternreview.com/review/pattern/175595">here.</a>&nbsp;The envelope and others like it also have no description of the garment which I found frustrating. I would think a description acknowledging the princess seams would be nice. In the photo above you will see that the cutting lines for side front are wrong for the size 10. They put the size 10 lines on the size 6 cutting lines. I did end up cutting&nbsp; a size 10 and did an FBA and did a MAJOR bicep adjustment. Since I stopped working I am more active plus those health issues and have lost weight.&nbsp; So my 107 pound frame jumped up in size, and after losing weight (only a number)&nbsp; then I needed to add a lot more to that to get it to fit my bicep. There is just something wrong here. Read the PR reviewers comments as well, including those below her review.&nbsp;</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t_L4nTmKa0M/YQvxRznOS7I/AAAAAAAASUY/8k23MyevmecA17ILl5cslwDXGpzv0NakgCLcBGAsYHQ/s5754/DSC_0460.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3167" data-original-width="5754" height="352" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t_L4nTmKa0M/YQvxRznOS7I/AAAAAAAASUY/8k23MyevmecA17ILl5cslwDXGpzv0NakgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h352/DSC_0460.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">So I don't know what is happening at Simplicity but for the first time in forever, their sizing is not working for me like it has for years.&nbsp;</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: bold; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LUA1P0Ee4Bc/YQvyk-NaebI/AAAAAAAASUg/_CfFO2txp1kS6kU3NpV3YW-f4n6i2syQQCLcBGAsYHQ/s3940/DSC_0487.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3940" data-original-width="3073" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LUA1P0Ee4Bc/YQvyk-NaebI/AAAAAAAASUg/_CfFO2txp1kS6kU3NpV3YW-f4n6i2syQQCLcBGAsYHQ/w500-h640/DSC_0487.JPG" width="500" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I will be the first to admit it could be me but the PR review does give a bit of validation. I have remeasured myself and cutting out another tee right now with another pattern and we shall see what happens.&nbsp;</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Construction:</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">This fabric was delightful to work on. The pattern did call for inserting sleeves in the round so I went with it being my first try&nbsp; but next time will be in the flat. Between the last tee and this one I stumbled upon Sara Veblen's method of inserting neck bands and used it for this shirt. Wow, her tips helped me get perfection. I am really happy with my results and you can see her video <a href="https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/10/27/video-a-neckline-binding-for-knits">here on the Threads website.&nbsp;</a>&nbsp;The pattern did not call for it but I stayed the neckline with fusible tricot interfacing.&nbsp; Before I inserted the sleeves and after doing the neckband, I pinfitted the sides and they were fine, plenty of room. It did seem to need a bit of a sway back adjustment but I would catch that on the next make.&nbsp; Sleeves went in. I did the hems and done. I tried it on and it did not fit. I don't know where the fit went but once the sleeves were in it totally changed and I had no extra seam allowance to play with. I was not going to wad this shirt. I loved the fabric too much. I ended up cutting gussets for the side seams.&nbsp; They were shaped like picket fence stakes adding one inch to each side and terminating in a point at the armscye. Worked like a charm but took time, ugh. Size ten did not fit at ALL. You can see it does not have negative ease, but neither does the triple size 0 model on the cover of the envelope. Is it not fair to expect my ease to match that of the photo on the envelope? With no description saying "close fitting" or anything else, I thought mine would fit like the model's, at least in regards to ease. I hemmed the sleeves and hem with my usual manner. That means a fusible tricot applied to the full hem width and stitched on the edge and again about an inch further up.&nbsp;</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">In Conclusion:</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I don't recommend this pattern. It required me to rethink a method of fitting that worked for me for decades. I feel the pattern itself is faulty and it shows on the poor guide on the outside of the envelope as well as the printed tissue.&nbsp; Upon further investigation of the back of the pattern you get a "6" size, a "32" European and a "34" in Francaise. Is Francaise not European and are these measurements or what? I think those may be just representative of further turmoil within this company and if so they better get their act together as their competition is nipping at their heels with foam dripping from their mouth. This pattern is not one I will make again. I have one more I will try on the cutting table as we speak. This five foot tall, 107 pound woman cut a size 12 based on my measurements. If it fits perfect, so be it it. Numbers don't bother me. Change without explanation does.&nbsp; Maybe they took lessons from Nancy Zieman and redid their pattern slopers.&nbsp; We can only hope..............................Bunny</b></span></div><p></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-88002845876301499492021-08-01T11:19:00.006-04:002021-08-02T07:42:33.823-04:00I've changed my mind!<p>&nbsp;</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LEwNAnjVPc0/YQaK91_CgAI/AAAAAAAASTE/hjJBSO1ALQg-Lcga-P8Yq6gq4bWFWr5UACLcBGAsYHQ/s5400/DSC_0437.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5400" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LEwNAnjVPc0/YQaK91_CgAI/AAAAAAAASTE/hjJBSO1ALQg-Lcga-P8Yq6gq4bWFWr5UACLcBGAsYHQ/w474-h640/DSC_0437.JPG" width="474" /></a></div><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I have said it more than once and I know others agree with me. "I can't be bothered to make a tee shirt that I can pick up for 3 dollars at WalMart." The truth is I extremely rarely buy a tee shirt and rarely shop at WM. I have tons of tee shirts. I used them as underlayer foils against the cold when I worked and they all have some sort of text or logo on them. They are the tee shirts that are "affiliated". I hide the affiliations under layers or wear them in the garden in the summer.&nbsp;<br /><br /></b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I recently watched several&nbsp; youtubers looking for well fitting tees. One really appealed because it was not skin tight and it still showed a women's shape. No boxiness here!&nbsp; I thought I might have&nbsp; the pattern in my stash and I did. Before this I had been thinking&nbsp; maybe I should get on the tee wagon and search out a great pattern, one that I could whip out over and over, one that did not have letters on it, one I could actually wear to a friend's for a glass of wine.&nbsp; I was currently looking for my next project and this sounded like a good one --- finding the Holy Tee!</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mTpsdYIjoMc/YQaMu-v8tOI/AAAAAAAASTM/jW86fWnfHDAMCDcdj5mdujDQK9-0zlflwCLcBGAsYHQ/s4140/DSC_0440.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4140" data-original-width="2840" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mTpsdYIjoMc/YQaMu-v8tOI/AAAAAAAASTM/jW86fWnfHDAMCDcdj5mdujDQK9-0zlflwCLcBGAsYHQ/w440-h640/DSC_0440.JPG" width="440" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>I dug out the pattern that I remembered the&nbsp; youtuber used, even if I couldn't find it on Youtube again. I looked up reviews and got to work. Here is my review:</b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Pattern:</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">This is <a href="https://www.palmerpletsch.com/product/mccalls-6964/">McCall's 6964,</a> an oldie but a goodie. My envelope says 2014. The interesting thing is that this pattern has actually been re-issued by Something Delightful (???) as Butterick 6848. Who knew?? Hopefully the directions have been updated as well. It has several neckline styles and a tank version as well. The tank version uses the exact same armscye as the tee shirt. Hmmmmm..... I chose View C, 3/4 length sleeves, my fave, and a rounded out neckline.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5yf28LY4NbE/YQaN41yHXlI/AAAAAAAASTU/JZc0oqUFjSECsNfj8bTS1fR6_aO9o8VUACLcBGAsYHQ/s3406/DSC_0457.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3406" data-original-width="3066" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5yf28LY4NbE/YQaN41yHXlI/AAAAAAAASTU/JZc0oqUFjSECsNfj8bTS1fR6_aO9o8VUACLcBGAsYHQ/w576-h640/DSC_0457.JPG" width="576" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">I like to follow a pattern pretty closely the first time I use it. This made for an interesting ride. Open it up and there were 7 pages, to be expected but not quite fitting with the "easy" description on the front. It is all about fitting and I can see this blowing away a newbie but they might not get their hands on this OOP number anyway.&nbsp;</span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">The first page starts with the classic pics of views then one column with a small blurb about creative ideas and more on "tips for knits". One tip was to stabilize the shoulder seams. I thought this would have been more appropriate on page five where you actually sew the shoulder seam. This pattern broke a lot of knit rules for me. I expected more finesse from such an acclaimed sewing expert. No stabilization of neckline, shoulders or armscye was shown. The side seams were stitched closed before the neckband was put on, which drove me nuts and I also thought a bit unusual. I get that you baste the side seams to check fit but I would have pin fitted as I have done with my current tee project. I soldiered on. The sleeves were installed in the round "for better fit." You know me. I am a traditional sewist. I am a total round sleeve type sewist, but not for knits, people! It's a knit tee shirt. So there was that making the simple tee more complicated as well.&nbsp; Then the final clinker was, and we are sewing with knits here that don't ravel, right?&nbsp; The final clinker was turning the hem under a 1/4 inch on the raw edge of the hem and then stitching. Really?&nbsp;</span></b><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Knits only are specified on the pattern.</span></b><b><span style="font-size: medium;">&nbsp;Every step of the way this garment was made more complicated than need be and that did not include any of the fitting instructions.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Now for the fitting. There is a lovely shape to the side seam and that is what makes this garment work. That is why the youtuber loved the pattern. If you have followed me a long time you know I am not a fan of negative ease. I cut wide seam allowances here and petited the pattern to make it work for me. I've lost a few pounds lately (unintentional) and there is more ease on me than what you see on the form, just a bit but it is exactly how I like it. The shoulders fit great on me. On the dressform, the nature of dressforms, the sewn shoulders don't seem wide enough. They are. I was concerned about the bust in this pattern. I usually do an FBA for a C cup. With the weight loss I did not need one but I read through the pattern to see what to do before I measured myself for my own needs.&nbsp; If I needed that C cup, I had to add a dart!!!! Really??? This is a knit tee shirt.&nbsp; Anything higher than a B cup is suggested to add a dart and the pattern shows how, a complicated process for any newbie on their own. If I needed that FBA I would have just done a cheater version bumping out the sides and easing it into the side seam, done.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PMCPdgFrqkE/YQaSNulx7nI/AAAAAAAASTc/SMA6a_bzKBQpf8Yz2DPLYz7OJl8q29CLACLcBGAsYHQ/s5167/DSC_0439.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3800" data-original-width="5167" height="470" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PMCPdgFrqkE/YQaSNulx7nI/AAAAAAAASTc/SMA6a_bzKBQpf8Yz2DPLYz7OJl8q29CLACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h470/DSC_0439.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: large;">Fabric:</span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">My fabric is a lyocell jersey with a bit of spandex. It is in a color that does nothing for me but will go with several things I own and I can make it a more flattering piece with a scarf or jacket on top.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Construction:</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Well, you can tell from the pattern instructions that I would have gone about the construction very differently. I would have taped the neckline with&nbsp; a fusible tricot tape. I would have used a more traditional knit method of construction, leaving the sides open until the neckline and sleeves were installed. I would never have turned a knit under a 1/4 inch at the raw edge of the hem, choosing instead to just trim back to the stitching line, which I did.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">In Conclusion:</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">I think this pattern could really flummox a beginner sewist. However, due to the really nice shape of it I would recommend it to those who are experienced with knit sewing and can follow their own method of construction. I also recommend it to those who prefer a top without negative ease. This skims and nicely. In the end, I like the look of my top and the shape. I did not like the pattern instructions at all.&nbsp; I do hope the second generation re-issue by Butterick is more user friendly in it's directions and has a bit more finesse in it's directions for sewing and fitting knits.</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C5I9k0vNOkY/YQaUdD9E1NI/AAAAAAAASTk/6aQR8v1-qYkdqXFQVS6LGpRB2GKSQCvcACLcBGAsYHQ/s4926/DSC_0453.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2686" data-original-width="4926" height="348" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C5I9k0vNOkY/YQaUdD9E1NI/AAAAAAAASTk/6aQR8v1-qYkdqXFQVS6LGpRB2GKSQCvcACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h348/DSC_0453.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">I have already started another tee, another pattern and will have that review soon.&nbsp; It is beautiful black knit I had in my stash and I am loving it. Above are a couple more knits that might make the tee project as well. Heavens, this last pattern bugged me. The current one is delightful, actually, Something Delightful, ha ha ha!!............Bunny</span></b><p></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-72761884866424882422021-07-15T15:34:00.002-04:002021-08-02T07:42:52.561-04:00The House Dress, ca 2021<p>&nbsp;</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9yaQtEcY-HA/YPB5w4tMAtI/AAAAAAAASPo/lOLF_agTUQM2gKZkVpuhW_YyIABgY0glgCLcBGAsYHQ/s5490/DSC_0319.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5490" data-original-width="3530" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9yaQtEcY-HA/YPB5w4tMAtI/AAAAAAAASPo/lOLF_agTUQM2gKZkVpuhW_YyIABgY0glgCLcBGAsYHQ/w412-h640/DSC_0319.JPG" width="412" /></a></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Redemption! Not the most exciting garment but but this simple dress redeemed me from the sewing debacle I endured with my last sewing excursion. Coming out of Covid had me craving nicer clothing to wear at home. No more fleeces. No more letting comfort reign supreme without the slightest regard to style. No more wearing clothing I wouldn't be caught dead in beyond my front door. I want clothing that is comfortable, feminine, and would look like I gave &amp;*$(#@ if I decided to run to the market or Post Office and bump into friends. I wanted to look pretty at home and pretty going out. I don't want to look like I just came from yoga class. I respect that others may feel differently&nbsp; but enough&nbsp; feel like I do that the NY Times did a big article on it in it's fashion section about a month or so ago. I want dresses.&nbsp;</b></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_78oeFkJcn0/YPB7hqKE5QI/AAAAAAAASPw/C2VplZhKAy0mFa3TCY7ePxm6cO90OTdwQCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0334.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_78oeFkJcn0/YPB7hqKE5QI/AAAAAAAASPw/C2VplZhKAy0mFa3TCY7ePxm6cO90OTdwQCLcBGAsYHQ/w426-h640/DSC_0334.JPG" width="426" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>To honor all those who have gone before, the likes of Lucille Ball and even my own Mom, and all the women who wore cotton "house dresses" with snaps up the front to quickly get in and out of or to whip open on a moment's notice for a nursing babe, and for all the women, again like my Mom,&nbsp; who surrounded me back in the day, I&nbsp; wear my best bandana, a la Lucy. While my Mom would have used it to cover up criss crossed bobby pins that secured spirals of thick black Irish tresses, mine is merely hiding a bit of gel and wet, washed locks. But I like my bandanas too and wear them a lot and to honor the "house dress".&nbsp;</b></span><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>In my opinion, the house dress should:</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>*&nbsp; Not be tight around any part of the body, particularly the waist</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* Should be easy to get in and out of</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* Should be an easy&nbsp; to maintain fabric</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* Should never give off a slovenly vibe and be able to get you from home to public view nicely</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* Should be out of natural fabrics and never sweaty or sticky</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* Should be very comfortable to wear</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* Can be accessorized and "upstyled" if need be.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://www.simplicity.com/globalassets/catalogs/simplicity/1912s-rebrand/s8856/s8856.jpg?width=500&amp;height=500&amp;upscale=false&amp;bgcolor=ffffff" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" src="https://www.simplicity.com/globalassets/catalogs/simplicity/1912s-rebrand/s8856/s8856.jpg?width=500&amp;height=500&amp;upscale=false&amp;bgcolor=ffffff" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b><a href="https://www.simplicity.com/simplicity-storefront-catalog/patterns/women/tops--vests/simplicity-sewing-pattern-s8856-childrens-and-misses-dress-and-tunic/">Simplicity 8856 </a>fit the bill perfectly for me, but first the fabric!</b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Fabric:</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">For fabric I used my most favorite fabric after linen: Kauffman's Essex Linen yarn dyed linen blend. The weft is linen and the warp is cotton and I use this fabric repeatedly. It is linen if it could be perfect and the addition of the cotton makes it so. it reacts like denim in that it does not wrinkle up and if it does any wrinkles just seem to fall away. You can wear it all day and look great for the duration. It is comfortable, breathable, easily washable and easy to sew. I have made more garments out of this fabric and literally have two large stacks of it in my stash. It is my go to. It is perfect for house dresses, washes beautifully and would need very little if any ironing right out of the dryer. If you do iron, it responds beautifully with no fuss as you will see in my photos.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Pattern:</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Simplicity 8856 is one I grabbed off the stand at the store. What you don't get from the picture above is that it is available in this one envelope in sizes for children and women up to size 24 which they call XL. It has deep pockets and is not gathered all around as the front bodice has a flat center panel extending all the way to the hem. I liked how the volume was reduced by this. There is a lot of volume in this skirt. I took two inches from the&nbsp; side front pieces&nbsp; each and another two inches out of the back panel.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vUZDfvPUFvQ/YPB82IU53CI/AAAAAAAASP4/B9581MfC_BwfnrQEqwc4Rbz4ac_plaI3QCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0288.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vUZDfvPUFvQ/YPB82IU53CI/AAAAAAAASP4/B9581MfC_BwfnrQEqwc4Rbz4ac_plaI3QCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0288.JPG" width="640" /></a></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I have found that when I do this type of skirt with the raised waist it can very poufy and billowey. I topstitch down my seam allowances toward the bodice which you might be able to pick up in this pic. I also, upon completion, go back and press down the top inch or so of the gathering, otherwise&nbsp; all that gathering can swallow me right up, petite hint there, sewists.&nbsp;&nbsp;</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZrHkyd62P-Y/YPCCX0oRfuI/AAAAAAAASQA/HcsgM8izxlE8TX5n9cwp0RvVmj_--vsrwCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0256.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZrHkyd62P-Y/YPCCX0oRfuI/AAAAAAAASQA/HcsgM8izxlE8TX5n9cwp0RvVmj_--vsrwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0256.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>Another change I made to this pattern to accomadate fit was to add darts, small ones. In the past two years I've made two garments with raised waists like this one. I have found that they do something interesting that you need to watch for. If you wear a B cup or smaller, the garment&nbsp; seems to hang from your shoulders, It will look loose and be comfy and that is generally the intended look. If you are larger than the B cup of the pattern, the garment will hang off&nbsp; the tip off your boobs and is just not that flattering. when I put together the bodice of this dress, I pinched out a couple of small darts under the breasts. That pulled in the bodice enough to look much more flattering and like the dress was hanging from my shoulders more. I decided to put the short darts in and you can see them here before pressing. No regrets and I recommend with these loose bodice dresses which are all over right now.&nbsp;</b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Construction:</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vxn9xzVCK3o/YPCDun7pIlI/AAAAAAAASQI/cBjmUd5mLOcbl4geA67azeeVKA_UflsLQCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0286.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vxn9xzVCK3o/YPCDun7pIlI/AAAAAAAASQI/cBjmUd5mLOcbl4geA67azeeVKA_UflsLQCLcBGAsYHQ/w426-h640/DSC_0286.JPG" width="426" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">This was a very easy construction and one beginners could succeed at. I had no issues with the directions and pattern either. All was clear. The closure is simple. All of my seams are stitched together,&nbsp; serge finished&nbsp; and pressed open. The directions have you turn them under in the area of the back slit. With serged edges there was no need for that so I just pressed them open.&nbsp;<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WVwsnUWIB10/YPCFSkdz-VI/AAAAAAAASQQ/7wWALU6ztVg7DnkwcKfzDoiHQbxCXPuQwCLcBGAsYHQ/s5100/DSC_0299.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3540" data-original-width="5100" height="444" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WVwsnUWIB10/YPCFSkdz-VI/AAAAAAAASQQ/7wWALU6ztVg7DnkwcKfzDoiHQbxCXPuQwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h444/DSC_0299.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /></span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">I loved the little loop for the button, vintage, which I made from a bias&nbsp; tube and my fast turn tube set.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: bold; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ejiTFgEoJyQ/YPCF0ICCuUI/AAAAAAAASQY/comjfO7gIMIj9_zJLnFeLR99slhr_0XdQCLcBGAsYHQ/s4786/DSC_0296.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3493" data-original-width="4786" height="468" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ejiTFgEoJyQ/YPCF0ICCuUI/AAAAAAAASQY/comjfO7gIMIj9_zJLnFeLR99slhr_0XdQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h468/DSC_0296.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>There is so much conflict in the sewing world over bias binding versus facings. There is a lot of&nbsp; HATE for facings. Personally, I make the judgement on each individual garment and have no quarrel&nbsp;with either. Here, I followed the pattern and did the facing.&nbsp; Sorry, sewists, but it is hard to complain about a well installed facing. Done right, it stays put and you don't know it's there. Now I had my issues at one&nbsp; time but with the wisdom of Nancy Zieman pushing me on I think I've mastered this one. If you would like to master your facings evermore, click here for Nancy's method; </b><a href="https://www.bukuresep.info/2019/03/nls-71-seam-secrets-and-understitching.html" style="font-weight: bold;">Here</a></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vvmLJEAuhDw/YPCHdFjOxvI/AAAAAAAASQg/PbtEVXiiOiEco32rJI53ENyT32kjftWSACLcBGAsYHQ/s3953/DSC_0291.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3007" data-original-width="3953" height="486" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vvmLJEAuhDw/YPCHdFjOxvI/AAAAAAAASQg/PbtEVXiiOiEco32rJI53ENyT32kjftWSACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h486/DSC_0291.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I didn't want to overload this dress with topstitching. I didn't want it to look like jeans remade so I kept the TSing down to just the pockets and hem. I love my topstitching.&nbsp; I only say it that way because I am not sure that every one is aware that the heinous "stretch stitch" that jumps over itself three times and should never ever be used on a knit (per experts Linda Lee and Nancy Zieman both) makes the most wonderful, thick topstitching that you can see here on the pockets. This is at a 3.0 length. Use if for TSing, NOT KNITS!</b></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GshNACsoSr4/YPCJ1cDn1eI/AAAAAAAASQo/7v19hNc8EbQD2JheSD7Z-nPoxpDClUUGQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1129/DSC_0322.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="917" data-original-width="1129" height="520" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GshNACsoSr4/YPCJ1cDn1eI/AAAAAAAASQo/7v19hNc8EbQD2JheSD7Z-nPoxpDClUUGQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h520/DSC_0322.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I also veered a bit from the patterns style wise with the sleeves. I sewed in the required hem but folded it up about an inch. I had machine stitched the hem in but then hand tacked the cuff in so it wouldn't turn down, turquoise arrow.&nbsp; The red arrow points to the small dart which is not in the right spot as I am lifting up the skirt in this cropped pic. The original sleeve hem was not at the best length for me. The pattern also comes 3/4 length which is what I will do if I make another.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EVjGNkv1wPc/YPCK4yVKj3I/AAAAAAAASQw/eWq06r2_85MSwYntckY-9p6ApP-3OVkxACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0323.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EVjGNkv1wPc/YPCK4yVKj3I/AAAAAAAASQw/eWq06r2_85MSwYntckY-9p6ApP-3OVkxACLcBGAsYHQ/w426-h640/DSC_0323.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><b><span style="font-size: large;">In Conclusion:&nbsp;</span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">&nbsp; &nbsp; </span><span style="font-size: medium;">Find your bandanas. Get out your patterns and make yourself some house dresses! I hope to make more, Let's make Lucy and Ethel proud!!!! ........................Bunny</span><br /></b></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-91311011401502238552021-07-09T14:43:00.003-04:002021-08-02T07:43:18.625-04:00Vogue 1387, The Ditsy Blouse<p style="text-align: justify;">&nbsp;</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sjVYZM0EXN4/YOhzCg65y9I/AAAAAAAASOk/C0g9_qvpkfQDWxZZBw-f42lunDnfrJciwCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0283.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sjVYZM0EXN4/YOhzCg65y9I/AAAAAAAASOk/C0g9_qvpkfQDWxZZBw-f42lunDnfrJciwCLcBGAsYHQ/w426-h640/DSC_0283.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Well, the Ditsy Blouse nearly drove me Ditsy. This blouse is finally finished. I was so excited to make it.&nbsp; Lucy of <a href="https://www.sewessential.co.uk/blog/">Sew Essentials</a> made one for herself and I was immediately smitten. The style was totally out of my wheelhouse but it snagged me.&nbsp; It offered the following:</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* All the current trends and rarely do I jump on trends but what the heck!</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* Tiny ruffles</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* Big, puffy statement sleeves</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* Tiny,&nbsp; ditsy print fabric</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* The opportunity to do a little creative fabric "painting"</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* Details I haven't sewn or worn in a long time and looked forward to sewing and wearing.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I was in on this full bore. I watched Lucy's videos on her ruffle making and the blouse several times and then did my thing. She suggested a specific pattern but surely in my stash there was something similar and there was. This Vogue Rebecca Taylor blouse on the left was a near match with just a bit of of alteration. That became the understatement of the year. I changed this pattern tremendously and often it wasn't just because of design decisions. It just didn't make sense logically at times from a construction standpoint as you will see. This ended up being the most frustrating item I have made in years and it came so very close to visiting Waddertown.&nbsp; As I go through my experience you will see how this pattern has some serious issues, at least in my opinion. That opinion does not seem to be shared by those on Pattern Review or the model on the envelope, so go figure.</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I do intend to try the sleeveless blouse on the right, however, as it is a totally different top and unrelated at all to the other view. Let's get started.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HUfXuKYHyDA/YOOcWj4H4AI/AAAAAAAASMA/LvFRhC256oU1SekgozM9sLzdRgRpeiSGACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0207.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HUfXuKYHyDA/YOOcWj4H4AI/AAAAAAAASMA/LvFRhC256oU1SekgozM9sLzdRgRpeiSGACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0207.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Description: "</span></b><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Montserrat; font-size: 14px; text-align: left;">Top has self-lined yokes, front pleats, shaped hemline, and very narrow hem.</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Montserrat; font-size: 14px; text-align: left;">&nbsp;</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Montserrat; font-size: 14px; text-align: left;">Back longer than front, loose-fitting, front bands with snap closing, and long sleeves with pleats, placket and snaps cuffs.&nbsp;</span><span style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: Montserrat; font-size: 14px; font-weight: 700; line-height: inherit; text-align: left;">A, B:</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Montserrat; font-size: 14px; text-align: left;">&nbsp;Wrong side shows."</span></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b style="font-size: xx-large;">Pattern:&nbsp;</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">This is <a href="https://somethingdelightful.com/v1387">Vogue 1387.&nbsp;</a> As we go along here, notice several things.</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-9lsm50z07e/images/stencil/480x680/products/13165/91892/V1387_11__76268.1579944843.jpg?c=1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="660" data-original-width="480" src="https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-9lsm50z07e/images/stencil/480x680/products/13165/91892/V1387_11__76268.1579944843.jpg?c=1" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">First, watch the shape of the yoke seam in the front. Next, keep your eye on those tiny pleats. Most of all, watch that button band! Ok, also, look closely at the bottom edge of the front yoke. it is hard to see but there is a thin bias cut strip between the yoke and the pleated bodice.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">ETA several hours after posting: I just really looked closely at the yoke on the pattern envelope and the pattern pieces for the yoke and my sewn&nbsp; yokes. You can see them closely in a photo below. They each have an entirely different shape.&nbsp; The yoke on the model ends mid-armscye. The yoke pattern piece's bottom edge ends two inches below the armscye.&nbsp; It is not sewn in backwards. I made quadruple sure of that and had tapes on each piece to direct me. You can see how it matches the paper pattern in the pic. Hmmm.......</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b style="font-size: large; text-align: left;">I have no idea where the wrong side spoken of in the description&nbsp; shows.&nbsp; I did like the idea of the snaps and ended up using Kam snaps and was pleased with the results.&nbsp;</b></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Fabric:</b></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WKf1vlA0754/YOTjQQiREEI/AAAAAAAASMw/NhktqaCp5tUQkfPuzSO0T6fphY1wneOwgCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0064.JPG" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WKf1vlA0754/YOTjQQiREEI/AAAAAAAASMw/NhktqaCp5tUQkfPuzSO0T6fphY1wneOwgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0064.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><b><span style="font-size: medium;">For this project I needed one of the currently popular "ditsy" prints. These are small prints, often floral, but not always, that repeat all over the fabric to blend into an allover effect. My ditsy print was a bit abstract and I liked it's more contemporary colors.</span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">The actual fabric was a 100%&nbsp; poly charmeuse, a fabric I usually run from fast and hard, but in this case&nbsp; it had the perfect look I wanted and so many are out there saying out these polies have improved. Have they? Not sure because I haven't worn this blouse for several hours in the summer heat but it was not too, too&nbsp; bad to work with using careful techniques. It did not ravel too badly either. I starched every seam before sewing and that helped a great deal. I used my serger throughout and french seams on all vertical edges.&nbsp; I can't say I had any issues that I wasn't prepared for and it worked out fine.&nbsp; It was in the print and texture I wanted for my impulse project and I went with it.&nbsp; One thing about poly charmeuses, they shine, A LOT. I do not care for that shine so I constructed this blouse with the wrong, matte side of the fabric being my "right" side.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">For interfacing, which is only used in a thin strip in the button bands and collar band, I used SF101, a fusible woven that worked&nbsp; fine.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">To get the ruffled edge effect I loved in Lucy's blouse I needed to replicate her ruffles. She did a black rolled hem edge on the edge of her small ruffle and I wanted the same. Unlike Lucy, I wanted a simpler, to me, way of doing the ruffle edge.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p style="text-align: left;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dSMkfOoalNs/YOOtXb_US5I/AAAAAAAASMY/FaVcczkUG-opfFINRDgC4oi6-WdWqsHlwCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0070.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="266" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dSMkfOoalNs/YOOtXb_US5I/AAAAAAAASMY/FaVcczkUG-opfFINRDgC4oi6-WdWqsHlwCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h266/DSC_0070.JPG" width="400" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">I tried various stitches, lengths and techniques, and in the end painted the folded edges of the ruffle with my black sharpie and also zig zagged them so a bit of the "zag" creeped out of the painted edge.&nbsp; I did lots of samples and washed and dried them and they held of beautifully without the slightest of fading.&nbsp;</span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: left;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vvJqfEJVgTE/YOOvB_XgE4I/AAAAAAAASMg/Ka7UJvjXmi0ReagHfwT9-bMgYSASpVEFACLcBGAsYHQ/s2070/DSC_0139.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2070" data-original-width="1440" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vvJqfEJVgTE/YOOvB_XgE4I/AAAAAAAASMg/Ka7UJvjXmi0ReagHfwT9-bMgYSASpVEFACLcBGAsYHQ/w446-h640/DSC_0139.JPG" width="446" /></a></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Fit:</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Due to the complexity of the yokes I did not do my usual Petiting of the pattern. I did not do an FBA either. I carefully flat pattern measured everything. I never take for granted the measurements given by the pattern company. I did choose to add some additional width to the bodice and hips by adding gathers at the fold on the center back. I ended up with 40 1/2 inches for my bust and hips. I measure 37 1/2 at my last measure but know I have lost a bit lately as you may tell from pics. Also, on this lazy, very rainy day I wearing a sports bra. My fit issues with this pattern were the same with a well engineered underwire. I also chose to shorten the bodice but I did that at the waistline. This is the result.&nbsp;</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WOLhL1IlAcY/YOh2O7xHJGI/AAAAAAAASOs/JU9z7vmkFakvALX1yivl5UPnu1VffrRWACLcBGAsYHQ/s4690/DSC_0284.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4690" data-original-width="3880" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WOLhL1IlAcY/YOh2O7xHJGI/AAAAAAAASOs/JU9z7vmkFakvALX1yivl5UPnu1VffrRWACLcBGAsYHQ/w530-h640/DSC_0284.JPG" width="530" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">The top snap, installed as per the pattern, twists and sinks into my mid chest and forms a cone. It is weird and awful looking. I followed the pattern exactly for snap placement.&nbsp; Not happy.&nbsp;</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Construction:</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">I will go through this section by section as it is rather involved and each section had it's challenges.&nbsp;</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">THE YOKES:&nbsp;</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Btd07ssQs7o/YOTh4nApThI/AAAAAAAASMo/4pqIjRkEHQATVrAYfILH2qLOxz6pqm6OACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0129.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Btd07ssQs7o/YOTh4nApThI/AAAAAAAASMo/4pqIjRkEHQATVrAYfILH2qLOxz6pqm6OACLcBGAsYHQ/w426-h640/DSC_0129.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">The yoke and yoke facing are curved on the bottom edge. The front yoke is longer .&nbsp; It is stitched to a <u>rectangular</u> bias strip that will fit between the curved bodice front and the curved front yoke. The yoke facing will then be hand stitched at that curved edge and cover everything.&nbsp;</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: bold; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BCiXXnkoaE0/YOTs0PzqwfI/AAAAAAAASM4/ZIYK7pwHWU0y_TElN4eLa7WqMmuMDpc9gCLcBGAsYHQ/s5453/DSC_0123.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3873" data-original-width="5453" height="454" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BCiXXnkoaE0/YOTs0PzqwfI/AAAAAAAASM4/ZIYK7pwHWU0y_TElN4eLa7WqMmuMDpc9gCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h454/DSC_0123.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>There are small pleats in the bodice that were not easy to deal with using this slippery fabric. On my first attempt I did not have a ruffle planned for the yoke but halfway in decided I&nbsp; really wanted one. I&nbsp; needed to pin the wiry ruffle into the seam. Above you can see the pins and basting tape used to help. I got this facing completed and realized that, #1, you could not tell if there were pleats or gathers under the ruffle so don't waste your time on the pleats if you plan to ruffle and #2,&nbsp; that added bias strip detail just made no sense. It was practically invisible on the print and greatly complicated the yoke construction. I realized that the yoke FACING was longer to accommodate&nbsp;that bias strip so I re-did the yokes without that silly bias strip detail which served no purpose and did not even show and just used the yoke facing as my yoke front. It worked out perfectly, was the exact same finished length, and easier to install. No size of anything changed. I ditched the pleats as well and used gathers.&nbsp; Upon completion and wearing I realized the pleats and gathers seemed to point toward that first snap, just thinking, here.&nbsp;</b></span><span style="font-size: medium; font-weight: bold;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>THE COLLAR AND BAND:</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>&nbsp;</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZEu1Zniw0co/YOTwmAza_XI/AAAAAAAASNI/JQ1YSbw3_FMyWqnShTkNMufPxZtxke-CwCLcBGAsYHQ/s3553/DSC_0238.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3553" data-original-width="2787" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZEu1Zniw0co/YOTwmAza_XI/AAAAAAAASNI/JQ1YSbw3_FMyWqnShTkNMufPxZtxke-CwCLcBGAsYHQ/w502-h640/DSC_0238.JPG" width="502" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I hope you can see this. The green arrow points to the intersection of the collar band and the button band. Both connect to the now solid one piece bodice front but don't touch each other.&nbsp; IMO, it is very important that the bodice, right at that ruffle intersection has a small bit of fusible interfacing for reinforcement. I would also stay stitch the&nbsp; seam line there as well. It is not referenced in the pattern but you&nbsp; definitely need to clip into the bodice if you have sewn to the edge. I did not see any dot signaling&nbsp;you to stop sewing at the seam line or any direction in the pattern telling you to do so either. So reinforce into the seamline and then stop sewing when you get to the seam line when you sew the yokes to the bodice.&nbsp; Then you can cleanly connect your collar and after that and separately, connect your button bands.&nbsp;</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>THE SLEEVES:&nbsp;</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3b8OCzBruyM/YOTx6df5-wI/AAAAAAAASNQ/uSvpo6B7CSIRiMo2svw3MMRK2TbSMsFHwCLcBGAsYHQ/s4967/DSC_0200.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2887" data-original-width="4967" height="372" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3b8OCzBruyM/YOTx6df5-wI/AAAAAAAASNQ/uSvpo6B7CSIRiMo2svw3MMRK2TbSMsFHwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h372/DSC_0200.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>I did not want the sleeves in the pattern, but rather the puffy, elbow length sleeves that Lucy had on her blouse which sported elastic at the hems.&nbsp; I dug through my patterns and thought I found a pretty voluminous sleeve but when I made them up they were far from being as full and pretty as Lucy's. Thank heavens I had purchased a lot of extra fabric for this project!&nbsp; I measured and played and decided to just add a triangular&nbsp;godet to the center of the the failed sleeve and it worked beautifully. It looked intentional and gave me exactly the fullness I wanted. If you click on the above picture to enlarge you will get a better idea of how I did this, stitched and serged where you see the black lines. With all the fullness you can't even see the godet but it does look totally "design detail".&nbsp;</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sB-vri3IHbk/YOTzAlu0ATI/AAAAAAAASNY/OGH2MwnoRw07lRB8xhVMoP6-R4kfG2LIACLcBGAsYHQ/s4634/DSC_0201.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3086" data-original-width="4634" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sB-vri3IHbk/YOTzAlu0ATI/AAAAAAAASNY/OGH2MwnoRw07lRB8xhVMoP6-R4kfG2LIACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0201.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Then I made two little poly organza sleeve heads to keep my puffy sleeves nice and puffy!&nbsp;</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hAyc49KW95A/YOTzVN497aI/AAAAAAAASNg/lIwuaF-ZEdgr_m9fkmRCaDVik8fCU-LVACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0205.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hAyc49KW95A/YOTzVN497aI/AAAAAAAASNg/lIwuaF-ZEdgr_m9fkmRCaDVik8fCU-LVACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0205.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">I do hope I remembered how to do these correctly. It has been a while!&nbsp; I ran an elastic cord through a 1/4 inch turned hem and that was that for the sleeves. French seams for the underarm seams.&nbsp;</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0qlxO0KXfsI/YOT0AmI_7HI/AAAAAAAASNo/63NMuOfCvncFD54XGDmWenmgRqtWfobSgCLcBGAsYHQ/s3867/DSC_0230.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3847" data-original-width="3867" height="636" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0qlxO0KXfsI/YOT0AmI_7HI/AAAAAAAASNo/63NMuOfCvncFD54XGDmWenmgRqtWfobSgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h636/DSC_0230.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>HEMS:&nbsp; All hems on this blouse are done at the very start of construction. Sometimes I am comfortable with that method but this time I wasn't. It makes it difficult to make any length corrections when you get the end and have to place buttons or snaps in this case. No matter how perfectly things can match on the table, they may not match on yourself.&nbsp; Do the hems at the very end. I don't think I am going to fall for that one again unless it's a knit.&nbsp;</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>THE BUTTON BANDS:</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ndQk4-uckmA/YOT1t_GxBqI/AAAAAAAASNw/YtaR_J2Sa3Mf5Mv0mKFvrZaScx1XVmGWgCLcBGAsYHQ/s5402/DSC_0252.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5402" data-original-width="2773" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ndQk4-uckmA/YOT1t_GxBqI/AAAAAAAASNw/YtaR_J2Sa3Mf5Mv0mKFvrZaScx1XVmGWgCLcBGAsYHQ/w328-h640/DSC_0252.JPG" width="328" /></a></div><br /></span></div><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Look at this picture closely, as well as the one on the pattern cover. When I purchased the pattern I remember looking at and questioning these button bands. They are a strip of fabric cut on straight of grain. YET, they are installed at the side of the neck, come in at an angle, and at the upper bust button together and go straight down the wearer's body.&nbsp; Physics was not my strong&nbsp; point in school but something told me the neckline really needed to be cut at an angle above the&nbsp; bustline up to the shoulder seam.&nbsp; I laid out and installed the snaps exactly&nbsp; where the pattern directed.&nbsp; Now, normally I would have petited this pattern in the upper bust but with the curving yokes I deci</span></b><b><span style="font-size: medium;">ded that I would remove a bit of length below the bust level and at the hem.&nbsp; I did not do an FBA either as there was plenty of room for my Ccup upon flat pattern measuring. Watch what happens when you button all the&nbsp; buttons.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p style="text-align: left;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iiO4y90zY2o/YOT3_ZtbxnI/AAAAAAAASN4/HsQSoxTUm98PQCMbIw0_hHcgxLLhznzwwCLcBGAsYHQ/s5700/DSC_0251.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5700" data-original-width="3420" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iiO4y90zY2o/YOT3_ZtbxnI/AAAAAAAASN4/HsQSoxTUm98PQCMbIw0_hHcgxLLhznzwwCLcBGAsYHQ/w384-h640/DSC_0251.JPG" width="384" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">You end up with a cone forming below it with the button band.&nbsp;</span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: left;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AD4td4Gmy30/YOT4wKgQptI/AAAAAAAASOA/XsjOjzrx7Ew2NcEcmmD_sy5M-51xi2qAgCLcBGAsYHQ/s5470/DSC_0249.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5470" data-original-width="3990" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AD4td4Gmy30/YOT4wKgQptI/AAAAAAAASOA/XsjOjzrx7Ew2NcEcmmD_sy5M-51xi2qAgCLcBGAsYHQ/w466-h640/DSC_0249.JPG" width="466" /></a></b></div><b><br /></b><p></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>If you button just the top button the button band wants to follow it's grain and keep moving on a slant as shown by the green lines above. The line on the right indicates where the other button band is sitting underneath.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VSjqoUIeTrM/YOh4c7vRDGI/AAAAAAAASO0/b6MSgISePpEqA_muaF8SOmNZSFE-Y8u7wCLcBGAsYHQ/s2470/DSC_0274.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2210" data-original-width="2470" height="572" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VSjqoUIeTrM/YOh4c7vRDGI/AAAAAAAASO0/b6MSgISePpEqA_muaF8SOmNZSFE-Y8u7wCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h572/DSC_0274.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>You can see how the under band leans to the opposite side, not falling down straight.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Akv415HTeoM/YOh4yE0i7-I/AAAAAAAASO8/6BcZwV2XhPg7f9jyCiHeZkQzWyNYXkOAACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0272.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Akv415HTeoM/YOh4yE0i7-I/AAAAAAAASO8/6BcZwV2XhPg7f9jyCiHeZkQzWyNYXkOAACLcBGAsYHQ/w426-h640/DSC_0272.JPG" width="426" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>Here you can see that if I leave the top snap undone it is a bit better but not much. If I leave two undone it is a lot better and cleave city! That takes it below the bra band.&nbsp;</b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mX38D6-JFpM/YOh5PvjzEAI/AAAAAAAASPE/m7J0lQM2DL4orLuMkG2lD0DqGrLQ9zQHgCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0279.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mX38D6-JFpM/YOh5PvjzEAI/AAAAAAAASPE/m7J0lQM2DL4orLuMkG2lD0DqGrLQ9zQHgCLcBGAsYHQ/w426-h640/DSC_0279.JPG" width="426" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Do I dare take the snaps out and redo them all on the diagonal?????? It is the only way those bands fall on grain and the top looks right. This may not bother the rest of humanity at all but it bugs the crap out of me. This blouse is never ending. What would you do?</b></div></b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><div style="text-align: justify;"><b style="font-size: large;">The whole thing is just crazy.&nbsp; Is it my body that is making it do this? No FBA. No Petiting the upper chest like I always do. Is this shirt meant for the less endowed? That's fine but don't let me work out my fantasy shirt and all of it's quirks to end up with this because I simply am a Ccup, LIKE MOST WOMEN, if that is even it. Or is it just plain poorly designed? Did someone take a shortcut when all they had to do was shape that button band with a bit of an angle and it would be perfection. ?&nbsp; This is the first time I have been disappointed in a Vogue Designer pattern like this. I will wear my top with my distressed skinny jeans like Lucy did but I'll know it could have been so much better. Please tell me if it is my sewing as well. I am open. My body? My sewing? My pattern?&nbsp; Thank you.&nbsp;</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large; font-weight: 700;"><br /></span></div><p></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b style="font-size: large;">*****************************</b></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b style="font-size: large;">I am almost done my "house dress" . It is darling and coming along wonderfully.&nbsp; Moving right along positively!</b></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b style="font-size: large;">Happy Sewing!</b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Montserrat; font-size: 14px; text-align: left;"><br /></span></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-50333995655739675072021-06-23T21:47:00.000-04:002021-06-23T21:47:16.193-04:00The Blouse That Won't End<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-no9bE4lD1qc/YNPardf9VNI/AAAAAAAASJ8/gIvYP9SbQE8UyC_ZSDg5Rr_ZUTPkQmGLACLcBGAsYHQ/s5053/DSC_0229.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3993" data-original-width="5053" height="506" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-no9bE4lD1qc/YNPardf9VNI/AAAAAAAASJ8/gIvYP9SbQE8UyC_ZSDg5Rr_ZUTPkQmGLACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h506/DSC_0229.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br />&nbsp;<span style="font-size: medium;"><b>This is truly the blouse that refuses to be finished. Every single step of the way I ran into something that made things more complicated and now here we are at the end and I can't finish! Seems the Kamsnaps I need to put down the front are not in the quantity I thought I had so I am waiting on my order to come in to install them. Should be soon. If nothing else this has been a very interesting and everlasting make. Yup, it's getting snaps!&nbsp; So it is put away as I move on.&nbsp; Everything is complete. I will be making a couple of slouch hats and then a "house" dress. I am so tired of this shirt.&nbsp;</b></span><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5eYsGIF-pMU/YNPbf62T_iI/AAAAAAAASKE/WcplkJO0EzAnfQGuIvNdRD7ej8t604cagCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0220.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5eYsGIF-pMU/YNPbf62T_iI/AAAAAAAASKE/WcplkJO0EzAnfQGuIvNdRD7ej8t604cagCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0220.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>In the meantime I found the neatest gadget. I make lots of binding and piping. I have never been a big fan of the metal tape makers out there that so many are fond of. Part of that is because I prefer a French Fold type of binding where I simply fold the fabric in half, stitch it to the front, usually, then just turn it to the back and topstitch or vice versa.&nbsp; I'd say 95% of my bindings are done that way. Well, leave it to June Tailor to come out with the best pressing tools and this one is no different.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Tzd6YA4VqF0/YNPcdjNrBVI/AAAAAAAASKM/NT5G4uWMqBcEc2zLiFYMARdMbQ8rk7udQCLcBGAsYHQ/s3913/DSC_0222.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3067" data-original-width="3913" height="502" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Tzd6YA4VqF0/YNPcdjNrBVI/AAAAAAAASKM/NT5G4uWMqBcEc2zLiFYMARdMbQ8rk7udQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h502/DSC_0222.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>(Glossy paper,&nbsp; sorry, but you get the idea. ) On the right of the board there are measurements listed next to slits for the size strips you need to cut. You then loosely fold the strip, and&nbsp; pass it through the slit and then pull and press on the pad. I tried it out and here is my review.&nbsp;</b></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I cut for a 2 1/4 inch strip as that is what I often use. I folded it in half and put it in the correct slit. It then slides out to the left and you line it up with the pretty stripe on the mat to get the perfect size and press on your strip.&nbsp;<br />I found the strips fit snugly in the slits. Could have been my cotton or&nbsp; rough edges. I will file it down a bit and put a bit of silicone on it but it did not flow really smoothly through the slit and was snug. I&nbsp; found it easier to go one size up on the slits and line up my edge of the tape wit the top of the stripe and all was perfect. That being said, I am picky and other fabrics might be smoother and this cotton was not starched either. I would buy this any way because with the amount and type of tapes I make I think this could really be a time saver.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The board has three different sized slots.&nbsp; I was thinking of drawing on the stripes on the board to mark them with half inch marks with a permanent fine tip marker. We will see if I need that first.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I got this today at Joanns for 9.99 sale price.&nbsp; &nbsp;I thought that was pretty decent for what it is, The back is a hard plastic type surface. Ideally, wouldn't this be great for a rotary cutter ? Unfortunately,&nbsp; those mats don't take the heat. The pad is thick enough and feels dense. I've always had great results with all my June Tailor products so I am not expecting this to be any different. I am looking forward to using this on my next tape foray.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jvv3JSLaysA/YNPfw5jWISI/AAAAAAAASKU/kmOn39msxusWX9Z9rh7VC_0UetxJm13dACLcBGAsYHQ/s5640/DSC_0231.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3547" data-original-width="5640" height="402" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jvv3JSLaysA/YNPfw5jWISI/AAAAAAAASKU/kmOn39msxusWX9Z9rh7VC_0UetxJm13dACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h402/DSC_0231.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b><div style="text-align: center;"><b>***********************************</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>The first Spring in this home we had a sad, scrawny&nbsp;excuse of a cherry tree, literally dieing in our front yard.&nbsp; I asked my husband to cut it down. He simply never got around to it.&nbsp; The second Spring it had a fair amount of little green cherries on it. The birds ate them before they were larger than peas but there weren't too many any way. This year, this tree has roared back and is loaded with the most beautiful cherries. We are leaving them for the birds and the bears. There is an old saying among gardeners, " The first year, it sleeps.</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>&nbsp; &nbsp; The second year it creeps.</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; The third years it leaps."</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Our cherry tree is leaping.&nbsp;</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KUdTRQI9wB8/YNPhgzzTZLI/AAAAAAAASKc/NR6OQC75wMUtQDMTT26FKTulzBVpRJt-QCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0215.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KUdTRQI9wB8/YNPhgzzTZLI/AAAAAAAASKc/NR6OQC75wMUtQDMTT26FKTulzBVpRJt-QCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0215.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>Bunny</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xaMbwxYRA3U/YNPh25U_40I/AAAAAAAASKk/9uiQMfPhsoM6FCAH_6wpiouSWUnzFH3DACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0218.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xaMbwxYRA3U/YNPh25U_40I/AAAAAAAASKk/9uiQMfPhsoM6FCAH_6wpiouSWUnzFH3DACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0218.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></div></span><p></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-4747974762038946222021-06-16T21:03:00.001-04:002021-06-18T07:29:21.730-04:00A couple of quickies!<p>&nbsp;</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-phAzQJB8Uis/YMqZ8jVMWgI/AAAAAAAASFk/r7F5B62PGQccbZy8-Vm4w2jq3hDoF0-8wCLcBGAsYHQ/s4333/DSC_0095.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2700" data-original-width="4333" height="398" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-phAzQJB8Uis/YMqZ8jVMWgI/AAAAAAAASFk/r7F5B62PGQccbZy8-Vm4w2jq3hDoF0-8wCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h398/DSC_0095.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">I recently came across a couple of brilliant sewing tips I thought I would share. First, the above are buttons covered in silk from a silk dress that was given to me. See, I know someone who knows someone who works in a thrift store in a very affluent neighborhood and they get some really lovely things donated.&nbsp; The friend of a friend I do know but neither of these friends live near me. Well, she always has her eye out for something I could use to either harvest for fabric or actually wear. She knows my size and style. About 2-3 times a year she sends me a bag with 4 or 5 garments, that's all. I'd say she has an 80% success rate and what doesn't work I donate locally. This last bag had a totally 80s silk dress out of the most beautiful royal blue silk jacquard. I harvested the fabric and was almost going to dis the buttons when I looked closely at them. Maybe you have, but I have never seen a covered button like this or this construction referred to in anything I've read. The top of the covered button has the fabric wrapped around to the back like any other covered button. But the piece of metal in the back that snaps into the back of the button to hold that top fabric tucked in is also covered. That back covered piece was stitched right thru on the garment. If you look closely you can see the little holes from the stitches.&nbsp; What a beautiful application! I can't wait to try this on a blouse. It just blew me away.</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DbjRi6Px6ws/YMqcMheyVaI/AAAAAAAASFs/QG9K_EnYRWcvzdL8wBOH3Xp0DVln2eqfwCLcBGAsYHQ/s5293/DSC_0130.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3266" data-original-width="5293" height="394" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DbjRi6Px6ws/YMqcMheyVaI/AAAAAAAASFs/QG9K_EnYRWcvzdL8wBOH3Xp0DVln2eqfwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h394/DSC_0130.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">My other great tip that I really can't remember where I found, is to take tissue paper&nbsp; and cut it into a pile of short strips and use these as starters for thin fabrics or folded up as mini hump jumpers if needed. Once I got this pile next to my machine I found I was using them constantly. Being tissue they are so easy to just rip off and toss. I just need to figure&nbsp; a good way to store them neatly next to the machine.&nbsp;</span></b><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Work continues on my ditsy floral shirt and not much is left to do, just the button band and sleeves. I am through all the hard part and will have much to say in my review.&nbsp; Today is the first day of my new retired life and I am so enjoying it already.&nbsp; I have so much sewing planned and will make two more hats quickly and then some dresses for summer.&nbsp; My work did not allow for dresses, too impractical but now I am moving on to what I saw one sewist today refer to as the "new house dress", nice, feminine dresses that are comfy. Seems people want to leave behind the year and a half of slovenly but comfortable clothing that no one really saw and breakout in nicer duds, even if&nbsp; just around the house.&nbsp; Do I hear the possibility of June Cleaver's pearls and heels? Oh, Ward...........................Bunny</b></span></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-28866055699077814702021-06-13T11:04:00.001-04:002021-08-02T07:43:42.441-04:00I made some hats!!!<p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oOcZjiB-l9A/YMYW1ZbCYRI/AAAAAAAASDk/pUeUhfkg1rs323Q4egDjaUBI0w_b1SPHACLcBGAsYHQ/s4380/DSC_0169.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3413" data-original-width="4380" height="498" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oOcZjiB-l9A/YMYW1ZbCYRI/AAAAAAAASDk/pUeUhfkg1rs323Q4egDjaUBI0w_b1SPHACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h498/DSC_0169.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br />&nbsp;<span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I really enjoyed making these little hats. I keep a Pinterest board specifically for hats and these banded cloches/toques (?) have been calling me for some time. They seemed so easy to make and so ripe for decoration and embellishment. When caring for my skin cancer situation on the top of my head I needed some sort of coverage. It had to accommodate&nbsp;twice daily washes and applications of Vaseline&nbsp;and no head under the shower. To say it was nasty was an understatement and that lasted a few weeks. Baseball hats put pressure in the wrong spot and I never liked their style and kerchiefs seemed too tight. The looser top of these hats and the tighter band around the face held things in place with this hat and they looked like they would work out really well. However, I would have made these hats anyway. I think they are cute and they have been on my "to be made" list for a while. I now had the perfect excuse.&nbsp; I will run you thru how easy they were and give you front, side and back views of the two I made.&nbsp;</b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fycGuMCtXi4/YMYYeCilOpI/AAAAAAAASDs/QEKUcjm7XrMDhu6y5oRvXqY9RVL2lO2dwCLcBGAsYHQ/s3114/DSC_0154.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2714" data-original-width="3114" height="558" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fycGuMCtXi4/YMYYeCilOpI/AAAAAAAASDs/QEKUcjm7XrMDhu6y5oRvXqY9RVL2lO2dwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h558/DSC_0154.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></b></div><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br />&nbsp;The hat consists of three bands. One is the measurement around your head with a bit of ease. You decide but I found a bit under half an inch just right. The next two bands are both equal in size but an inch and a half larger then the facial band.&nbsp; They are pieced together and gathered onto the facial band.&nbsp;</span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qgUu0REyAD0/YMYZHxEXyeI/AAAAAAAASD0/DPA7wDpYUl8ACyE61HPlKG_LRHdDofLtACLcBGAsYHQ/s3500/DSC_0158.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3073" data-original-width="3500" height="562" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qgUu0REyAD0/YMYZHxEXyeI/AAAAAAAASD0/DPA7wDpYUl8ACyE61HPlKG_LRHdDofLtACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h562/DSC_0158.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">The edge of the top band is stitched to a circle. I used and 8 1/2 inch circle but you can have fun and go smaller and gather it on. You will see different looks to the circle size on Pinterest. You decide.&nbsp; I then made a lining for this one out of silk using just the circle and the two top bands and serging that all to the facial band.&nbsp;</span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IQqRebxm0aM/YMYZq6t9TkI/AAAAAAAASD8/1rz3Oa2N8HY4L3RPeBFovzus8Ph6nvQKACLcBGAsYHQ/s2260/DSC_0152.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2067" data-original-width="2260" height="586" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IQqRebxm0aM/YMYZq6t9TkI/AAAAAAAASD8/1rz3Oa2N8HY4L3RPeBFovzus8Ph6nvQKACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h586/DSC_0152.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><b><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">The fabric I used for this hat is one I dyed many years ago. I treasure my hand dyes, no matter how small the pieces and find they can be such fun to pull out and play with. They are the Barbie Dolls of my dotage. This is actually a vintage damask tablecloth I dyed maybe 30 years ago. It is so soft and I love the way it slouches in this hat. I like wearing it to the side and the scrimshaw pin to keep it that way.&nbsp;</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HxHzT54fWi0/YMYak4jea3I/AAAAAAAASEM/iYRLJLQdwho-aM7pM2iL3bj-O7D0iwSaQCLcBGAsYHQ/s3833/DSC_0189.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3300" data-original-width="3833" height="552" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HxHzT54fWi0/YMYak4jea3I/AAAAAAAASEM/iYRLJLQdwho-aM7pM2iL3bj-O7D0iwSaQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h552/DSC_0189.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;">This hat is the same "pattern" but different fabrics so it falls differently. It does not want to drape to the side but looks good draped straight back and down. Without intention, the color and stiffness bring to mind the glorious headwear many of our black sewing sisters wear and that I admire.&nbsp;</span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X3_orB7cnbQ/YMYbLWIBuiI/AAAAAAAASEU/UIt_RAIJLTkhyLokWAhnNya0O-07cE5zACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0191.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X3_orB7cnbQ/YMYbLWIBuiI/AAAAAAAASEU/UIt_RAIJLTkhyLokWAhnNya0O-07cE5zACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0191.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br />The orange bands are Essex Linen blend, one of my favorite fabrics and the white areas are some bull denim I stenciled and had leftover from a handbag project I did. I added a bit of piping to the join between the top band and the circle. I love the fun colors and I have a couple of outfits this hat will be perfect with.&nbsp;</span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-frKwbqspNys/YMYbwHokJ-I/AAAAAAAASEc/7nTQl6kS-Gg-uKrAf0QgLWfbHIlmJEDLQCLcBGAsYHQ/s3280/DSC_0176.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2621" data-original-width="3280" height="512" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-frKwbqspNys/YMYbwHokJ-I/AAAAAAAASEc/7nTQl6kS-Gg-uKrAf0QgLWfbHIlmJEDLQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h512/DSC_0176.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">After getting the pieces all sewn together, minus the circle, I decided something was just missing. As I stared at the mess on my cutting table all the bits and bobs of leftover Essex linen stared back. I grabbed them and started raw cutting and sticking them down on the bands. Tadah! I went to the machine and did a raw edge applique on top of the painted band and it all came together. I put the whole thing together and then threw it in the washer and dryer to soften up the paints like they now were on my bag which had been washed many times and to give the raw edge applique a bit of a fluffy edge. It worked. The hat softened the bull denim and the paint and made things more wearable. I think it is great fun and can't wait to wear it with my periwinkle linen dress. Needless to say I will be keeping my head quite covered from here on in as well as other skin. I recently learned that a dear uncle who passed when I was a child passed from melanoma. I always thought it was throat cancer. So another family member to add to this scary list. I am so glad I love to wear hat and even happier I love making them and am able to share them with you . Stay covered, friends. Happy Sewing..................Bunny</span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-67207527241619172742021-05-11T19:16:00.001-04:002021-05-12T19:15:18.452-04:00Sewing those ?#!!?*## Poly Silkies<p>&nbsp;</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EkZ0XRpyYU8/YJryxEb8jWI/AAAAAAAAR8U/L11XbHAcB-IRH0EAu7jv10wH1epzIUWFgCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0064.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EkZ0XRpyYU8/YJryxEb8jWI/AAAAAAAAR8U/L11XbHAcB-IRH0EAu7jv10wH1epzIUWFgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0064.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">&nbsp;<b>I just love the info on this selvage---"ditsy floral stretch charmeuse". It's loud and clear that the current rage for what is being called "ditsy florals" is right on the selvage and you are buying the latest trend! As a matter of fact, this entire project is alllll trend, alllll over. I watched a sewing video on youtube from Sew Essential and Lucy, the presenter, had a ditsy print with a ruffle added on to the pattern as well as some contrasting edge stitching. The design also sported statement sleeves that billowed below the elbow and ended up in elasticated hems.&nbsp;&nbsp;</b></span><p></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">This top had every trend out there going for it.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Full, billowy statement sleeves.<br />* Frill, or rather, small type ruffles<br />* "Ditsy" or small floral prints.&nbsp; My print is a bit of a stylized version of such.</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">The bottom line is I wasn't chasing trends. You know me. I just don't do that and rather pick and choose as the styles flatter. This top , however, really snookered me and two days later I was off to Joanns to make a minor investment in the fabric as everything else I needed was right at home.&nbsp; Lisa wore here creation with jeans and it looked great. My mojo was up and running.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><br /></b></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-9lsm50z07e/images/stencil/480x680/products/13165/91903/V1387_a__61815.1579944852.jpg?c=1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="660" data-original-width="480" height="640" src="https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-9lsm50z07e/images/stencil/480x680/products/13165/91903/V1387_a__61815.1579944852.jpg?c=1" width="465" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b><p></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Next, I needed to find a pattern. <a href="https://somethingdelightful.com/v1387" target="_blank">Vogue 1387</a>&nbsp;, view B, was a near match to the youtube wonder and in my stash. I would need to add the "frill" to the mandarin collar, back yoke and front yokes as well. I made sure I purchased extra fabric as I wasn't sure what the foofy sleeves and ruffle would require. As you will see further along in this project it was a good thing I had that extra fabric insurance.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">So now I have the inspo, the fabric and the pattern. This post will just be about how I handled that difficult poly "stuff", aka, mock silk charmeuse and how I went about the frill. Once the top is done I will model and go into the crazy, CRAZY business I had with the front yokes and all the pattern details in the next post.&nbsp;&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><br /></b></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1oXNcgQ8zhc/YJsGGZAeYJI/AAAAAAAAR8k/rR9gOjpaxV8TXir4bAgEPmOCDsIw1YbAACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0070.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1oXNcgQ8zhc/YJsGGZAeYJI/AAAAAAAAR8k/rR9gOjpaxV8TXir4bAgEPmOCDsIw1YbAACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0070.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b><p></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">What really caught my eye about Lisa's top was this slight ruffle. It was in a lighter ditsy print but she did a BLACK rolled hem edge on it, very contrary to the fabric, and yet it made that wimpy little fabric pop like crazy.&nbsp; The garment didn't scream "prairie" but rather looked on trend and fresh. I did all sorts of samples on the serger and the machine. She used her serger. I eschewed that and went for the machine. I will spare you the bunch that didn't win and just tell you that the winning strip had a perfect line of black sharpie and over it was stitched a loose narrow satin stitch on my Pfaff. This was ironed and then I went back and stitched another line of satin stitch, thicker and wider over the first row. It looks thick and lovely and was easy too. Best of all, I wasn't up to changing my thread colors on the serger as I was mid project on something for my granddaughter and I got a beautiful rolled hem look without the serger this way.&nbsp; Next, I washed the strips in hot water and dried on hot. IRL, they will be washed on cool and a lighter dry.&nbsp; The winning sample was second from the left, above. The ruffle will only be about 5/8ths of an inch wide. Tiny ruffle, tiny rolled hem effect. This ruffle, with a 1 and 1/2&nbsp; ratio will go on the front yokes, back yoke and collar. The Sharpie washed beautifully, no running at all.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><br /></b></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eiVXzA4iZLU/YJsIxJgo94I/AAAAAAAAR8s/oCZDJrB-81klieUBAUVbuAME9yj_x7a6gCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0065.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eiVXzA4iZLU/YJsIxJgo94I/AAAAAAAAR8s/oCZDJrB-81klieUBAUVbuAME9yj_x7a6gCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0065.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b><p></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Next it was on to just dealing with the POLY of it all.&nbsp; Here are a couple of things I have learned over the years about this fabric.&nbsp;<br /><br /></span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* The quality available today is better than it&nbsp; was years back.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* It often comes with some stretch which this does. Make sure your stretch is on the crossgrain and FOLLOW YOUR GRAINLINE RELIGIOUSLY with this fabric.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">*Cut this fabric in one layer with a rotary cutter. Cutting on paper helps but I didn't. Use lots of big weights.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* For this particular pattern pay extremely close attention to the cutting, layout and marking of all the yoke and yoke facing pieces. You may be temtped to chuck it all as I actually did at one point! Mark clearly and carefully. Have no fear. I will show you how I got around the yoke issues.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Big one here:&nbsp; Spray starch your seams and all the yoke pieces, very important. I sprayed mine lightly, ironed dry, no steam, sprayed again, ironed dry, no steam. Two light layers of starch really helps this fabric behave.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p_ndxk_JN24/YJsKa-BaE5I/AAAAAAAAR80/49TixxGQxZMnAvK_d_NrOwq1Zj99Le-cACLcBGAsYHQ/s5425/DSC_0078.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3194" data-original-width="5425" height="376" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p_ndxk_JN24/YJsKa-BaE5I/AAAAAAAAR80/49TixxGQxZMnAvK_d_NrOwq1Zj99Le-cACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h376/DSC_0078.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b><p></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Make samples of your seams before committing to the garment.&nbsp; I decided on French seams and am now zig zaging my second pass on the first seam after cutting it to 1/8th inch, encouraged by my sewing friend extraordinaire, Kathy Dykstra. She makes the most incredible French seams.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Read all the directions on this pattern. It is complicated. The yokes could really flummox a very inexperienced sewist.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Very important and for me the most important, feel free to sew this poly charmeuse fabric on the wrong side. I did and have before as well. I do not care for the shine. I think it cheapens the fabric.I am sewing it so that my "right" side is the flat, matte, "wrong" side of the fabric. It will make the garment look a bit richer.&nbsp;&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">I'll be back soon with the completed blouse. The project I mentioned for my granddaughter---it is her prom gown. It needs some hemming and booty adjustment, just a teeny bit of both. What a Prom-a Drama that's been, fault of the retailer and long story but all is well now!!!&nbsp;</span></b></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">***********************************</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">I have been sewing a fair amount. Gardening has been beckoning as well but most of all I have been spending time just enjoying my family and being out with them and about again. Being out of this covid cage and living life again is wonderful and top priority right now. Lots of company, which I love, and my husband has been a wonderful partner there as well as in the garden. I also have had several rather serious health issues show up in the past 3 months or so and chasing down specialists, appointments and doing what I need to do to deal has taken time and resting, etc. Sometimes I am just so freakin' exhausted. Hopefully we will see these issues under control or gone in the next few months. I am not good when I feel bad. So that is what is happening now, happy to be out and about, with family and alive. Hope you all are enjoying a covid free Spring.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Happy Sewing!</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Bunny</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-88460049257633519742021-03-14T14:44:00.000-04:002021-08-02T07:44:06.808-04:00I've Got A Notion<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">I have been working away on the portrait project. I believe I've remade the eyes twice and the mouth at least 3 times but it does look like her. I've played with threads, stitches, paints and pencils and in the midst of my inexperience have come to some sort of agreement with all of that. One of the issues is that there are so many different techniques for doing this sort of sewing. All I know is that I will finish this portrait and do the next one differently. It is not that one method is any worse or better than the other. It is just that one technique is more likely to give me what my brain was envisioning. After all, this is a lot like making my first dress. So, lots more to come. I won't sew a garment until I am done this project. That decision is also fueled by the ability to shop for fabric down near Boston. I will be post my two vaccines soon and plan to make a day of it with my sister. I hope new fabrics will inspire as we get into warmer weather and get out of slouchier clothing. We'll see how that all plays out as well. I just know it is lookin' good out there now!!!&nbsp; Each day we are closer to a happier, more huggable world and I can't wait!&nbsp;</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><p style="text-align: justify;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y8SNKSDfP-o/YE5VC5fafHI/AAAAAAAAR08/vs5UEMXEHpcyHs0CsA3d1sKtzOZogW5VACLcBGAsYHQ/s5320/DSC_0015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5320" data-original-width="2500" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y8SNKSDfP-o/YE5VC5fafHI/AAAAAAAAR08/vs5UEMXEHpcyHs0CsA3d1sKtzOZogW5VACLcBGAsYHQ/w300-h640/DSC_0015.JPG" width="300" /></a></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">I've got a few notions for you to check out here, two new, one not so new but so indispensable.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>First are my Clover Pressing Strips. These are new to me. I saw them suggested somewhere on line and immediately went to order them. I cannot tell how many times I have ironed bias tubes and wished I had a strip to put in side that would take the heat of the iron and let me iron the seam open and then let me turn the tube and line that seam up evenly down the length of the tube. My vision has the seam line going perfectly down the middle or the side of the tube. Oh, I've done it but fingers get burned by steam, and it is a touchy, aggravating process. I have slipped a thing or two down a tube or two but they have always turned out to be something that got too hot and burned me or didn't come out of the tube very easily. I can't wait to try these. The package gives you lots of widths from spaghetti strap width to 18 millimeters, roughly a bit less than 3/4 of an inch. They are called Clover Loop Pressing Bars and are available in many places online with prices ranging from 8.00 to 9.50. I paid 8.00 and free shipping.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; </span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WfcxQS4flag/YE5V3iMNevI/AAAAAAAAR1E/3pbMmg0ZZOkh_RrNkp4DH-dIRazx1C__QCLcBGAsYHQ/s4700/DSC_0036.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3794" data-original-width="4700" height="516" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WfcxQS4flag/YE5V3iMNevI/AAAAAAAAR1E/3pbMmg0ZZOkh_RrNkp4DH-dIRazx1C__QCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h516/DSC_0036.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></b></div><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><br /></span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">My next great notion, and one I use A LOT, are my Derwent Inktense pencils. I know you have heard me mention these before. I've actually done a demo on them where I showed how to make a buttonhole on a print fabric&nbsp;</span></b><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>a using a white thread, preferably cotton but poly can work too, and using the pencils with water to color the parts of the buttonhole&nbsp;thread&nbsp; to match the parts of the print. The&nbsp; BH literally disappears&nbsp;and it is really awesome. Another use is when you cut a buttonhole&nbsp; and that white interfacing or that white back side of a fabric is showing on the front of the BH which may be made in a thread of an obvious color, say red&nbsp; or blue. Once again, you can dip your pencil in a tiny dot of water to turn into paint and paint the inside edge of the BH where that white edge is sticking out. Looks so much better. Pressing anything you've painted with your Derwent pencils, which are technically&nbsp;"watercolor pencils" makes them permanent and I have had no problem with that. They are also great for mending and hiding those light thread ends. On this notion I say go&nbsp; big or stay home. I have the 36 count tin which goes for around 50.00 but it is so nice to have all the colors to match up when I need them. I&nbsp; have used them on my daughters face in my portrait project. They can be blended as well. I consider them a must have sewing notion at this point. I think if you get the smaller set you will wish for the larger one in no time. Make sure you get the INKTENSE pencils as Derwent makes many different kinds of pencils.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ig3Wrvxg7Ak/YE5XCFu9iKI/AAAAAAAAR1M/rB0YzFXt0PYx5jU8fc2h8YH1_iXo1y3XACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0032.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ig3Wrvxg7Ak/YE5XCFu9iKI/AAAAAAAAR1M/rB0YzFXt0PYx5jU8fc2h8YH1_iXo1y3XACLcBGAsYHQ/w426-h640/DSC_0032.JPG" width="426" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>My last is another new discovery and wow, do I love it! it is , let me take a deep breath here, "Acorn Precision Piecing Products Seam Align Glue", whew!&nbsp; I must tell you, sewists, you do need to hang around the Local Quilt Shop. You will find amazing notions to really help any garment sewist that are not found in most places that have garment fabrics. OK, we've all heard of fabric glues. I've used many over the years from Aleene's&nbsp; to Elmer's white school glue&nbsp; to a fairly good product called Roxanne's Glue Gaste It and all in between. I use Wonder Tape a lot as well. This Acorn stuff, which my official name for it, from what I understand, is meant for people who do paper piece quilting. It is awesome for garment making as well. You have to use it in seams but that's the idea. It holds seams together. You put the tiniest dot imaginable&nbsp; down in your seam allowance and then hit it with the iron. If you have one of those tiny applique irons that has sort of a leaf shaped end to it that gets really hot, that is perfect. (There is actually a picture of one on the front of the package of the pressing bars.) You heat that up and keep it carefully close by. You dot your seam allowance, press the fabrics together, hit with the tiny iron, or a big one, and boom! you're stuck and you can sew with no shifting. Needless to say, this has been great&nbsp; for the tiny pieces on my portrait project. I also used it on a large mending project I did for a friend&nbsp;and it worked great. This glue has worked better than any I've tried over the years. It would be great to stick an underlining to the fashion fabric in the seam allowances before sewing to prevent shifting or to hold down those bias strips on Hong Kong seams that you wrap to the back and then topstitch, hmmmm,,,,How about some plaid matching too?&nbsp; Warning, this glue looked ridiculously expensive on Amazon but it was in a 4 ounce bottle. My bottle is one ounce and from my LQS. I may have paid around 8.00 or so. I have used it a lot and it has barely moved in quantity. If you can find the one ounce bottle, I suggest trying that out first. I think you'll really like it.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">So these are some notions I am using right now, two of which I very recently discovered. I just have bumped into them and have no connection to anyone selling any of these products, just wanted to share a good thing.</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;</span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LD5TJoaLe0c/YE5UXBTM_iI/AAAAAAAAR0w/RDAFFNx0n0wQUSFP9xDeTqG-y7N952VXwCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LD5TJoaLe0c/YE5UXBTM_iI/AAAAAAAAR0w/RDAFFNx0n0wQUSFP9xDeTqG-y7N952VXwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0012.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></b></div><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>There is something really weird about walking into your studio when you haven't been in there for a couple of days and turn on the light to see your daughter's&nbsp;face looking up at you from under the presser foot on your machine. Haunting,,.:) ............Bunny</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-84242700080836116372021-03-06T08:39:00.008-05:002021-08-02T07:44:57.284-04:00A Difficult Topic<p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://cdn.sixtyandme.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/Sixty-and-Me_Sewing-for-Yourself-101-740x416.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="416" data-original-width="740" height="360" src="https://cdn.sixtyandme.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/Sixty-and-Me_Sewing-for-Yourself-101-740x416.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">photo courtesy sixty and me&nbsp;</span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Let's set the platform first here.&nbsp; This topic has been brewing with me for a long time as I have been witnessing its expression online repeatedly, each time with quite a sting. Now, I know you are immediately going to jump to an assumption here. You are going to say, " Bunny is an older woman. She is feeling slighted. So what? So she writes a blogpost." No. This topic crosses a broad spectrum from our newest sewists to our oldest and most experienced. They all have prejudiced assumptions made about their abilities, their skills, THEIR STYLE, their experience and more. It is across the decades of sewing experience and practice and really needs to be acknowledged, discussed and stopped.&nbsp; &nbsp;</span></p><p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Ageism and the Sewing Community</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Ageism </b>is practiced, like all prejudice, from a viewpoint, one nurtured by upbringing and ignorance and reinforced by our culture, media, workplace, and social associations. Let me give you a perfect recent example.&nbsp;</span></p><p></p><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">I recently was on a FB page that I really enjoy, one known for its inclusivity which I&nbsp; appreciate and respect. It has a broad spectrum of followers and experiences which makes for interesting reading and I like that every now and then I am truly inspired and helped and that once in a while I can help someone with their sewing challenges.&nbsp;</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">A proud sewist showed a picture of her daughter, who appeared to be thirty&nbsp; years of age or less with her puppies. I only mention that so you get an idea of the posters possible age. The young daughter was a teacher and facing the difficult challenges of teaching remote and through teacher friends of my own I know how difficult this has been and can sympathize. She keeps her&nbsp; classes interesting by having theme weeks and decided with students to have, and I quote here, "old people" week. Her mom made her an outfit she would be wearing all week to teach the kids remotely and similar little outfits for the dogs. If you remember Ruth Buzzi from Laugh In, it was similar and the image my brain immediately went to. She wore a pink turban,&nbsp; a dress made by Mom from a sheet and a long white cardigan. If you saw this costume it was a total "joke" of what any old person would wear and I would venture that you haven't seen anyone dressed like that over 60 in the supermarket in decades, if ever. The "old person" looked like someone from "One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest" and would be the image the Mom&nbsp; and Daughter complicitly would present to their students for a week of remote learning about "old people."&nbsp; I immediately expressed my feelings and why to the administrator of that page and she&nbsp; removed it which I appreciate and shows her stand on inclusivity and prejudice is real. I thanked her and thank her again here.&nbsp;</span></div><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">That was <b>Ageism in the Sewing Community.</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">It is a good thing my daughters weren't being taught by this teacher as I would have gone straight to the Superintendent of the school district and rattled some serious chains.&nbsp;</span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">You may think you don't see <b>Ageism in the Sewing Community</b> but it is there every day. At least every day I see someone post a lovely dress or outfit, beautifully made and fitted and someone asks/says "Wow, how old are you? and the maker responds with her age. What then proceeds is a lot of "Wow, you don't look 63!" or fifty or 70 or whatever the age is.&nbsp; I am going to paraphrase Gloria Steinem here when she was interviewed on her fiftieth birthday by some famous journalist, forget who.&nbsp;</span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Journalist: I can't believe you are fifty. You look great.&nbsp;</span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Steinem:&nbsp; &nbsp;This is what fifty looks like.&nbsp;</span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Can we just tell our makers they are beautiful, fabulous in their new outfit, made an incredible garment, the fit is amazing, etc. Why does their age have to be a measure of their accomplishment here and asked about?&nbsp; I see this over and over and it bugs the heck out of me.&nbsp;</span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">There is more to this topic before you think I am being one sided here. How many negative&nbsp; pages have you read on social media about "entitled Millenials"? There are scores and scores in the sewing community. I have read&nbsp; many&nbsp; of these types of comments, actually pages, just on PR. Different generations do things differently and all generations inherit the future. Millennials&nbsp;seem to be advancing in age and a newer generation of sewists is on the horizon now as well. Newer sewists are just as guilty of Ageism as the longer experienced. I've often witnessed an assumption of lack of computer capability by older sewists on the part of younger sewists. Another is the assumption that if the knowledge is not from Youtube it is not worthy of learning and therefore experience is devalued.&nbsp; That is a big one I see too often.&nbsp; Newer sewists need to assume nothing about experienced sewists and what and how they learned all they know and vice versa. It is still knowledge. It goes both ways.&nbsp;</span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">I would like to make a couple more points about <b>Ageism in the Sewing Community.</b>&nbsp;</span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Too long, aging has been something that is the brunt of a joke. Just like that original FB post I mentioned, the teacher made being old a joke to her students. Being old is presented as a joke all the time. Be aware of this and how you comment, post and live on social media in the Sewing Community. Millennial&nbsp;jokes are just as offensive as "old people" jokes in our community and only serve to separate any sense of community that exists.&nbsp;</span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">There are amazing sewists of a more advanced age out there. They have terrific style and can sew like magic comes from their fingers. One of my favorites is Margy of&nbsp; A Fool for Sewing. While she has stopped blogging a quick jog through her blog will impress you with her skills and incredible style.&nbsp;</span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><a href="http://fool4fabric.blogspot.com/2017/04/the-life-changing-magic-of-slow-sewing.html"><span style="font-size: medium;">A Fool for Sewing</span></a></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Another fabulous sewist who impresses me nearly every day is <a href="https://www.facebook.com/designsbyvera/">Ms. Vera&nbsp; of Alterations and Design by Vera of Savannah, Georgia.</a> She is an extremely hardworking designer who does highly skilled work all with a smile and loving every minute. Her work will blow you away. She can sew or fix ANYTHING as you will see as you go through her page. Ms. Vera, once in a while, will regale us with a new outfit she made for herself for church or a new hairdo and makeup she chooses to share. She doesn't miss a beat when it comes to trends and always looks stylish&nbsp; in rare glimpses of her personal life.&nbsp;</span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">ETA: There are many platforms in social media. I don't partake in Instagram, at least not yet, because I just simply don't have the time. I enjoy writing and the depth of socialization that blogging has provided me over the years. I also enjoy FB as I can get quick inspiration and also help others as well and they&nbsp; often help me, too. But you have to draw the line somewhere so Insta is not on my agenda. I do listen to sewing podcasts a lot and enjoy having them in the background as I sew and organize and plan. I feel like I am with friends and getting to know others in the community. Again, it is that depth of the experience. I have tried Insta a few times but just find it very shallow and it doesn't hold my interest.&nbsp;<br /><br />Listening to podcasts made me realize some things. Where are older sewists? Where is the voice of experience? It is nearly nowhere,&nbsp; people.&nbsp; I want to commend podcasts that have really broken that rule and I ask WHY have not others? There are only two podcasts I listen to where an older sewist is part of the team. Their participation greatly enhances the quality of the podcast. We all know our tongues get looser as we age and the more seasoned team members here are no exception. They are delightful. And their knowledge is priceless as well.</span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">First, there is <a href="https://www.clothesmakingmavens.com/episode-37-a-mavens-extravaganza/">Clothes Making Mavens.</a> If you have not heard their podcasts you are really missing something. They are working seasonally now and will re casting soon with a new season but all of their casts are still on line and worth listening to.&nbsp; Barb Emodi, long time blogger, writer for Threads magazine, book publisher and all around sewing expert, is on the team with Helena, Lori and Hila, talking about very interesting topics in the sewing world. They never run from controversy and are great conversationalists. They always admit what they don't know and when they have been stumped and failed and when they have scored and succeeded. They interact wonderfully with Barb discussing particular topics where her experience is valued and clearly shown. It is all pretty loose, or seems enjoyably so. Barb contributes tons of wit and wisdom and can be counted on for laughs and giggles and an occasional shocker or two. It is clear the other members of the team really value her input. Why aren't other podcasters making experienced sewists part of their regular programming?&nbsp; Are they afraid to look less experienced? I don't know but from what I have seen (heard) it adds greatly to the entertainment value of the podcast, never mind what we learn from such a wealth of knowledge.</span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Another podcast I would like to acknowledge for its clear acceptance of all in the sewing community is The Self Sewn Wardrobe and their podcast <a href="https://sewhere.com/series/sewing-out-loud/">"Sewing Out Loud"</a>. This podcast is quite unique in that is broadcast by two women, no biggy, right? Well, these two women are biggies. They are a mother and daughter team, both extremely knowledgeable sewing professionals who have done it all from owning sewing related businesses to now podcasting and every sewing related activity in between. There is classic, mother daughter chatter, often hilariously pitting the two generations, and always informative and&nbsp; entertaining. Mom is into aerial acrobatics and makes her challenging costumes and Mallory has small children and a husband, while pursuing a busy professional life. One of the hall marks of&nbsp; Mallory and&nbsp; Zede's businesses, besides, skill, and experience, is acceptance of all.&nbsp;</span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">We need more Self Sewn Wardrobe and Clothes Making Maven type podcasts where those doing the casting are not just talking about their own personal experience but talking with those who have a longer, wider sewing experience than they do. I just don't hear it out there. From where I listen, I here other podcasts that consist of not much more than discussions&nbsp;of new patterns and how to sew certain fabrics. I have heard Barb Emodi and Zede Donahue add a great depth of knowledge to what other casts cast out there. They can't be the only ones and shouldn't be. I think we need to demand that all voices are heard in the sewing community and not just those who have sewn only Indie patterns. Experienced sewists have sewn Indie patterns as well but for some reason they are not being brought into the podcasting community with interviews or as team members. Barb is a great example but just check out Pattern Review to see many others older sewists sewing Indies. Many have done so for a long time.&nbsp;</span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">There are countless more&nbsp; women like the ones I have mentioned above, women of high skill and style. They are valuable members of the sewing community and DO NOT look or sound or make clothes like the depiction of an old person that the FB poster put out to her students. <b>Crap like that has got to stop.</b> Comments about entitlement and millennials does too and really is so yesterday. It is still always so wrong to generalize a whole generation. ANY GENERATIONAL PREJUDICE IS WRONG, SO JUST STOP IT AND SEW ON. Share the love and the passion. Always in peace and love,,,,,,,,Bunny</span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com37tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-43351763266906704542021-02-21T17:41:00.000-05:002021-02-21T17:41:42.891-05:00What I have been up to......<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--Av8KbVlzuc/YDLeiq20lJI/AAAAAAAARzQ/yS-jtRs-5Ok0tXksToifSMly8gHyzZqegCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--Av8KbVlzuc/YDLeiq20lJI/AAAAAAAARzQ/yS-jtRs-5Ok0tXksToifSMly8gHyzZqegCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0002.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br />&nbsp;<p></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">When I decided to put garment sewing aside for a bit, this is what I wanted to work on. It is a portrait of my daughter. I have two daughters and hope to make a portrait of each and then hopefully follow up with our grandchildren. It is something I have wanted to do for a long time. It merges my love of oil painting with my love of textiles. There is no oil painting here but there is tug back to a dear mentor, now deceased, who was an amazing portrait painter among the many artistic abilities he had. I was his assistant for three years and learned so much from him. He was also my dad's best friend and best fishing buddy.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Please don't judge as this is only half way done. Details in the face and elsewhere will be filled in with free motion stitching on the machine and a bit of painting as well. This is one of the reasons I built my expansion table for my machine. I will keep you posted as to how it is going. It has been quite a journey and I really look forward to my other daughter's portrait as I have learned so much making this one. I feel her's will be a much smoother journey. This week I will set out to buy threads for the free motion quilting. I think they may all be variegated. There is much more detail to come. She looks heavier in my version. I will have to do something about that. I think just slim down the scarf.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">It has been a winter of sewing and searching&nbsp; more casual sewing. I have enough right now. I do have a need for pajamas and a robe but it has to be natural fabrics or rayon. I am searching for those fabrics right now. Finishing this portrait will come first before I get back to garment sewing. Be patient with me....Bunny</span></b></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-50449352640580220152021-02-15T16:42:00.000-05:002021-02-15T16:42:25.133-05:00Zero Waste, do you? Sure you do!<p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large; font-weight: bold;">&nbsp;</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; font-weight: bold; text-align: center;"><a href="https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/53dcd8fee4b071b54b3296c9/1600719385320-DPI3V3EFO8M7YLJN8XUI/ke17ZwdGBToddI8pDm48kMh3mVmBaCAeGwqCLG3iONRZw-zPPgdn4jUwVcJE1ZvWQUxwkmyExglNqGp0IvTJZamWLI2zvYWH8K3-s_4yszcp2ryTI0HqTOaaUohrI8PIarJWwnumkapRz_nmTYj1dpaH2rx--_BA62nv3IYPJxMKMshLAGzx4R3EDFOm1kBS/Visible+mending.+A+creatively+repaired+cardigan+with+colourful+darning+and+swiss+darning+by+Collingwood-Norris.jpg?format=1000w" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/53dcd8fee4b071b54b3296c9/1600719385320-DPI3V3EFO8M7YLJN8XUI/ke17ZwdGBToddI8pDm48kMh3mVmBaCAeGwqCLG3iONRZw-zPPgdn4jUwVcJE1ZvWQUxwkmyExglNqGp0IvTJZamWLI2zvYWH8K3-s_4yszcp2ryTI0HqTOaaUohrI8PIarJWwnumkapRz_nmTYj1dpaH2rx--_BA62nv3IYPJxMKMshLAGzx4R3EDFOm1kBS/Visible+mending.+A+creatively+repaired+cardigan+with+colourful+darning+and+swiss+darning+by+Collingwood-Norris.jpg?format=1000w" width="555" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-weight: 700;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i>Visible mending by Collingwood=Norris, pretty awesome</i></span></span></div><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">When I see versions online of Zero Waste garments, sorry, they look like either wrapped bath towels or large pieces of yardage pushed into a smaller rectangle made to look like a wrapped bath towel. I have yet to see anything I or anyone I know would wear. I am not talking garments like sheath dresses&nbsp; where the maker has used the leftover pieces of fabric to make a bag or a stuffed animal or such. I am talking one piece of yardage made into an entire garment.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">I love Studio Faro and their amazing designs. Here is one of their takes on a zero waste design:&nbsp;<a href="http://www.studiofaro.com/well-suited/pattern-puzzle-squares-zero-waste">http://www.studiofaro.com/well-suited/pattern-puzzle-squares-zero-waste</a>&nbsp; I won't publish any pics as I&nbsp; have found fashion pics have a way of disappearing from the web over time so please click to get my drift. This is a very creative design but I would never be caught dead in it. Is it brilliant? Total use of the yardage for sure. Would it work in the hills and lakes of New Hampshire Mmmmm......maybe in a local coven. Definitely not for me but could work in a more sophisticated environment like NYC or Milan.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Now before you think I am anti Zero Waste, let's go back to the very beginning----of time. You've all seen those memes circulating with "old fogies" telling millennials about how recycling and green living were invented&nbsp; back in the day. They&nbsp; list things like glass milk bottles being returned and reused each week; paper bags covering books at school; yada, yada, yada. I even remember the ice boats we made from old hockey ice skates, old sheets and some discarded 2x4s. Wow, they flew across the lake and what fun! I am from the pre all plastic generation and it is true. We actually mended clothes and that's coming back now too as if it is the new big thing! I do&nbsp; think some of&nbsp; the work of Celia Pym and her peers is positively artful.</span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://masonbentley.files.wordpress.com/2017/02/4117045856e76826f78c0b6c3bae3d77.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="400" height="640" src="https://masonbentley.files.wordpress.com/2017/02/4117045856e76826f78c0b6c3bae3d77.jpg" width="427" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i>Visible mending by Celia Pym&nbsp;</i></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i><br /></i></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">But let me get to the bottom line here. Who sews and wastes? "Not I" says any passionate needle artist. Who doesn't save, organize or even donate or use for other higher causes their leftover bits and bobs from sewing? "Not I"&nbsp; screams the driven needle worker. What lover of fabric and fiber does not occasionally scour rummage sales, thrift shops and yard sales for that rare gem of fabric at a bargain price to recycle into their own precious interpretation of great style? All of us sewists, that's who, newbies, experienced sewists and all in between. The thought of forcing yardage into a garment that I don't like and that has been designed without regard to what might flatter a body of whatever shape just to have no pieces of fabric left over is something I find so disdainful and even ridiculous.&nbsp; I would suggest that those driven but such green ideals, which I do share, look elsewhere in the textile chain to rid this planet of over consumption and manufacturing with disregard to Mother Earth. Sewists are doing just fine with saving the planet.&nbsp;</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><div style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.capeandislands.org/sites/wcai/files/styles/x_large/public/201409/DSC_0894.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="531" data-original-width="800" height="426" src="https://www.capeandislands.org/sites/wcai/files/styles/x_large/public/201409/DSC_0894.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i>Today they are condos.&nbsp; This is one of&nbsp; five that we used to make all those suits.</i></span><br /><span style="font-size: large; font-weight: 700;"><br /></span></div><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br />Back when I was fresh out of college and wanted a real job I got one in a garment factory.&nbsp; At the time it was the largest manufacturer of men's clothing in the world. We had 5000 employees and turned out 150,000 men's suits on an average week back when men wore a lot of suits. I worked my way up from receptionist to admin assistant to the treasurer of the company. It was fascinating. I loved it and was surrounded by fabric. I LEARNED A LOT. All that to say that the mill next door got all our scraps, much of which were 100 % wool. They got all the scraps from all the textile mills in a city of more textile mills than you could count. There was NO waste. They did not bale them up and send them to India or Bangladesh. They "reprocessed" them. The were shredded and chopped and made into tiny litle fibers that went to other clever manufacturers in our city of textile manufacturers. They were&nbsp; remade into other items from new fabrics to carpet pad and more. I mean, 2021, Duh..... can we not do this???&nbsp;</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.gr-assets.com/images/S/compressed.photo.goodreads.com/books/1340800808l/11797414.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="265" height="640" src="https://i.gr-assets.com/images/S/compressed.photo.goodreads.com/books/1340800808l/11797414.jpg" width="424" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">I love that a generation brought up on juice boxes and nylon backpacks destined for landfills is disgusted by what they see happening with the results of Fast Fashion. It needs to change so badly. Sewists are in the front line changing that. Read and have your friends read Elizabeth Cline's book "Overdressed" to see what you can do about this. While we will never go back to the milk man picking up our glass bottles each week and brown paper bag book covers, I do think those in the Fashion business need to use their efforts more responsibly.&nbsp; Designing patterns for sewists is a waste of time. Get back to a twice seasonal fashion cycle&nbsp; where quality clothing is the norm, where you buy far less and wear it longer. This would be a world where the skills of dressmaking and tailoring would be just as highly regarded as those of the electrician or plumber and paid accordingly. Those two fields would be so respected by all for their ability to extend the life of clothing&nbsp; and even change it's look as fashion changes, therefor eliminating feeding the monster in those Bangladeshi mountains of used fast fashion.&nbsp;</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">My final thoughts</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Designing Zero Waste patterns for sewists is preaching to the choir.&nbsp;</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* The Fashion Industry needs to wean itself from On Demand inventories, aka, Fast Fashion by becoming more seasonal in its offerings. This demands higher quality garments that use more natural fabrics and better construction techniques.&nbsp;<br /><br />* The Fashion Industry can expend it's efforts on cleaning up the environment by utilizing natural fibers and mindful dyeing processes. Anyone who ever lived in a textile manufacturing center can drive through with you blindfolded and tell exactly where the rayon is manufactured, where the big dye works are, etc. They STINK specifically with their unique odors&nbsp; &nbsp;and pollute their surroundings. Let's use our science and brains in the textile industry to cleanup our act here, not waste time on zero waste garments.</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Lets go back to processes that will reuse the fibers that are left over from manufacture as they were years ago. Where there is opportunity there is money to be made.&nbsp;</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Sewists are so ahead of the game on these fronts. Reading Cline's book will let you know how special you are and how you can influence the future. Just don't get sucked into the myth and waste of time of zero waste garments. Fads can change moments. They don't change the world.....Bunny</span></b></div><br /><p><br /><br /><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-91406167183717219932021-02-07T12:57:00.004-05:002021-02-07T13:49:51.501-05:00Another Inspired shirt !<p>&nbsp;</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9Lz8UHUaWyw/YBsMhUEkrHI/AAAAAAAARu4/J02rkAEZMhQEZCisJHV77v6GDY6J0BJZACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0989.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9Lz8UHUaWyw/YBsMhUEkrHI/AAAAAAAARu4/J02rkAEZMhQEZCisJHV77v6GDY6J0BJZACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0989.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">When I find a design I really love, I tend to make two or three of them in pretty short order. I went to my local quilt shop and back in the area where they have garment fabrics, which are mighty fine by the way, I found this Japanese fabric that up close looks and acts more like a linen. It is all cotton. It's a bit funky and the grey is rather muddy which the computer doesn't pick up that well.&nbsp; I decided it needed to be the same design as the lovely white tablecloth shirt I just posted previous to this one.&nbsp;</span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XXZS8ihfjUk/YBsN7XXDD7I/AAAAAAAARvI/PX7uAgc9lxsavznwSGCWgPVJ4SIZpcFvwCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0931.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XXZS8ihfjUk/YBsN7XXDD7I/AAAAAAAARvI/PX7uAgc9lxsavznwSGCWgPVJ4SIZpcFvwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0931.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>It took me 1 3/8 yard of 45 inch fabric to make this little top which started out as McCalls 8144 for knits. All I kept was the neckline and it's center front seam and moved on to a woven.&nbsp; You can see all the construction on the previous post but I will point out a few highlights I did differently on this one</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-44zy1Fv3IKE/YBsOwJio9NI/AAAAAAAARvQ/AeZ3bg_9gGspMCIJs3iVruAzSom9mod5ACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0986.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-44zy1Fv3IKE/YBsOwJio9NI/AAAAAAAARvQ/AeZ3bg_9gGspMCIJs3iVruAzSom9mod5ACLcBGAsYHQ/w426-h640/DSC_0986.JPG" width="426" /></a></span></div><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">On this version you can better see the shape of the front hem. It is one inch shorter at center front than it is where it meets the side seam. It looks very cropped on my dummy but it totally covers my waistband and a bit of my tummy below. If&nbsp; you look at the pics in the last post you will see&nbsp; no skin at all shows when I wear it.&nbsp;</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">You will also notice in the second iteration that the cowl is much more pronounced . This is because this is a lighter weight fabric than the cotton damask used in the white version.&nbsp; I really like this effect.&nbsp;</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hiEwaEjLqGc/YBsPjOjNqEI/AAAAAAAARvc/wAgS05vLLcMLW_ma3Tk16asnUdY7p7G1wCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0995.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hiEwaEjLqGc/YBsPjOjNqEI/AAAAAAAARvc/wAgS05vLLcMLW_ma3Tk16asnUdY7p7G1wCLcBGAsYHQ/w426-h640/DSC_0995.JPG" width="426" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><p>This time I cut a bias facing and it was understitched and then turned and catch stitched to the top.&nbsp; I was careful to pull just a couple of threads so they wouldn't show on the public side.&nbsp;</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PlSx6FfYCCE/YBsQDmxDGVI/AAAAAAAARvk/LPCUEKILQHkmO3wTM84yq1ucvNaV5RXngCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0996.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PlSx6FfYCCE/YBsQDmxDGVI/AAAAAAAARvk/LPCUEKILQHkmO3wTM84yq1ucvNaV5RXngCLcBGAsYHQ/w426-h640/DSC_0996.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><p>It's a bit confusing but what you see above is the invisible zipper opened up to show you the neckline facing. On the original it was handstitched to the zipper. Here you can see that the invisible zipper was installed on serged seam allowances and the big facing piece was machine stitched to the zipper and turned, a nice clean finish that I often forget to do.&nbsp; It really is so easy with inviz zips too.&nbsp;</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xQLGV4gmmLI/YBsQuhNgdOI/AAAAAAAARvw/OcoErDySxF8ZvZeymM0pYedxLa8k1DflwCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0990.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xQLGV4gmmLI/YBsQuhNgdOI/AAAAAAAARvw/OcoErDySxF8ZvZeymM0pYedxLa8k1DflwCLcBGAsYHQ/w426-h640/DSC_0990.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><b>Once again, on the back, I have the yoke going across and the inviz zip in the middle going up the neck so I could easily get this over and on for dressing. It was easy.&nbsp; This print was very random and I did not bother to match at all.&nbsp; I tried and tried but could not pull it off at any point that would let it match on the opposite side.</b></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I just want to comment that I think this is a cute top but would be really great for those of us of a certain&nbsp;age. There is wonderful flattering neck camouflage, and the sleeves show some skin for ventilation yet are still pretty flattering. I am really also into shorter tops the past couple years as I find they flatter my petite height better. It's a good proportion for me. So version #2 of my inspiration top has been put together until warmer times. I think it will look great with jeans.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><b style="font-size: large;">I am going&nbsp;to put sewing garments aside for a bit and work on a couple of other creative projects I have going on. I feel like I am just making clothes to fill up my closet at this point. I have my vax scheduled and am looking forward to life going on. I am going to try some other creative endeavors&nbsp;in the meantime, some bead weaving and some pictorial quilting. I will blog about them as they get interesting.&nbsp;</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G6t946lBMU8/YBsT0ix0bxI/AAAAAAAARwE/LL7v1QquP90mUQU89SamrxVLtXZElrTuACLcBGAsYHQ/s609/DSC_0950.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="609" data-original-width="439" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G6t946lBMU8/YBsT0ix0bxI/AAAAAAAARwE/LL7v1QquP90mUQU89SamrxVLtXZElrTuACLcBGAsYHQ/w460-h640/DSC_0950.JPG" width="460" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span><b><span style="font-size: large;">Happy Sewing!</span></b><br /><br /></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b><br /></b></span><p></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-23355082525516604912021-02-01T08:52:00.001-05:002021-02-01T09:02:30.350-05:00A Cobbled White Shirt<p>&nbsp;</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--XQVVez3DxA/YBcmq1UOlRI/AAAAAAAARs4/tUriU9xYO2oTQINxB5RKTXn1y-daqTwrgCLcBGAsYHQ/s3980/DSC_0955.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3980" data-original-width="3067" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--XQVVez3DxA/YBcmq1UOlRI/AAAAAAAARs4/tUriU9xYO2oTQINxB5RKTXn1y-daqTwrgCLcBGAsYHQ/w492-h640/DSC_0955.JPG" width="492" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>I so enjoyed making this deceptively simple top.&nbsp; It brought together a lot of creative ideas of mine and I am pleased with the results. I apologize for the pictures. Many are highly corrected to show the details. White is so hard to work with photographically. I'll describe what you see above. It is a top inspired by a pattern specifically for knits. I was determined to used it but had none of the knits needed and shoved it aside for another day. I decided to move on to other possible projects. I have been longing&nbsp; for some time to make my annual white shirt and I was overdue.&nbsp; I made one, a total total failure, and I will tell you about it in a later post. Right now let me glory in the results of this one. I love this top, LOVE IT. I think it is elegant and I like elegant. I'm in lockdown and elegant gives me some fantasy and right about now that feels good. I am preparing for that elegant life once my vaccinations are all injected. A girl can dream, can't she? There is another side to this misery, right? Anyway, about now, elegant is what I need even if it sits in the closet for a few more months. I also have had on my mind some creative use of some lovely textiles needing upcycling and this seemed like a good opportunity for that.&nbsp; Let me give you all the really interesting details on this one.&nbsp;</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div></span><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: large; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ozbZ7b3C6sw/YBcpxLOoSRI/AAAAAAAARtE/wJ57JHXiD7MkdlBpYXLDbUsgy8_nkKpWwCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0926.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ozbZ7b3C6sw/YBcpxLOoSRI/AAAAAAAARtE/wJ57JHXiD7MkdlBpYXLDbUsgy8_nkKpWwCLcBGAsYHQ/w426-h640/DSC_0926.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><b><span style="font-size: large;">Pattern:</span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">I have been searching out and collecting patterns for more casual sweatshirt type garments. This one caught my eye. I've yet to find the right fabric for it but it is in the top of the queue and just nagging the heck out of me.&nbsp; It is a knit only pattern with center front and center back seams. Even though I didn't have fabric yet, I took the pattern pieces out the see how the neckline was done. The center front seam has this "hump" in it that when stitched and added to the funnel shaped neckline it becomes this lovely slight cowl collar. It looks very natural and unstructured. There are sleeve options. I did not like them. I did not have a knit but I loved the&nbsp; cowl effect. Sigh...I thought that would work on another day............... It is McCalls <a href="https://somethingdelightful.com/m8144">10736, aka, 8144&nbsp;</a></span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MCMSOAJmb34/YBcq68Gc4tI/AAAAAAAARtQ/OQaY5GsnPO4N24v38Y8A84FhmsJnjg9VACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0918.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MCMSOAJmb34/YBcq68Gc4tI/AAAAAAAARtQ/OQaY5GsnPO4N24v38Y8A84FhmsJnjg9VACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0918.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-weight: 700;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Leftovers</span></span></div><span style="font-size: medium; font-weight: bold;"><br /></span><p></p><p><b><span style="font-size: large;">Fabric:</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">This is where it starts to get interesting. I love to cruise rummage sales at churches and places like thrift shops and Good will. I have scored some gorgeous textiles in them. What you see above are the scraps leftover from my top. This top was made from an exquisite HEAVY cotton damask tablecloth, very vintage. I wonder if it was actually an alter cloth in the church where I bought it for one dollar. It was beautifully pressed, folded and cared for. I've been wanting to utilize it for a long time but until McCalls 10736, nothing hit me. I did try various painting techniques and none excited me so it had&nbsp; to be something white. It was a delight to work with. There was a very wide border of&nbsp; an almost&nbsp; fleur de lis design and a negative center space with sweeping branches and little berry cluster things. You'll see more as we go along and get closer. It was great to sew on. Alas, it did not stretch and surely was not a knit.</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: large;">Construction:</span></b></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: bold; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XI52YSAFscY/YBcuTFQTtwI/AAAAAAAARtc/xoq97TrdfGAojgv09AXOQLXT0-Gg3SK_QCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0964.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XI52YSAFscY/YBcuTFQTtwI/AAAAAAAARtc/xoq97TrdfGAojgv09AXOQLXT0-Gg3SK_QCLcBGAsYHQ/w426-h640/DSC_0964.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-weight: 700;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Hubs has been taking my pics from too high. Gotta talk to him about that!</span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-weight: 700;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><br /></span></span></div><span style="font-size: medium; font-weight: bold;">First there was the challenge of the pattern. It was for knits. I measured it all and went up&nbsp; a few sizes&nbsp; to a 12. Then I&nbsp; crossed my fingers and it worked. So I cut my garment in a size 12 with my woven fabric, flat patttern measured all to make sure it fit and moved on.&nbsp;</span><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: bold; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fsoUtw7FyRk/YBcvGiYtLeI/AAAAAAAARtk/dGj-0UReaCMqVIHcmm1p3FlzCs_TQ2aHQCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0967.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fsoUtw7FyRk/YBcvGiYtLeI/AAAAAAAARtk/dGj-0UReaCMqVIHcmm1p3FlzCs_TQ2aHQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0967.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>To accommodate&nbsp;the fact that this was not a knit and it had to get over my head and the fact that I had to use the designs in the tablecloth with a bit of respect I decided to split the back of the pattern and make a large yoke.&nbsp; This allowed me to do a lovely match of the small motifs in the negative space of the tablecloth and to add an invisible zip at CB. The zip really is invisible. Shadow and the high contrast I had to use are making&nbsp;it look open.&nbsp;</b></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IByCDLlIXdE/YBcv2YxGlkI/AAAAAAAARtw/ANpZdCBoIfYCFn-7Uz2p7PInDBKa1oYcQCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0946.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IByCDLlIXdE/YBcv2YxGlkI/AAAAAAAARtw/ANpZdCBoIfYCFn-7Uz2p7PInDBKa1oYcQCLcBGAsYHQ/w426-h640/DSC_0946.JPG" width="426" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>About an inch up from the yoke seam is where the Inviz Zip actually ends. I marked it with the red line for you. I used Kenneth King's method which I highly recommend.</b></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tMam2mTMeOo/YBcwr41XQsI/AAAAAAAARt4/9Qcdx3YVzfoAKF4NNtmiB8Wc9CbfkmswgCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0914.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tMam2mTMeOo/YBcwr41XQsI/AAAAAAAARt4/9Qcdx3YVzfoAKF4NNtmiB8Wc9CbfkmswgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0914.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Here you can see the inside of the back and the invisible zip. All the seams are serged. There is a one inch seam at CB before you hit the yoke. The long zipper is then stitched with a stationary zigzag and cut off below that. That is not done yet in this pic.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ixjeau3jeag/YBcxRIXgo0I/AAAAAAAARuA/LfmUbTFYwdAMHujEG6zqRbJAlZVMkFsIwCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0975.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ixjeau3jeag/YBcxRIXgo0I/AAAAAAAARuA/LfmUbTFYwdAMHujEG6zqRbJAlZVMkFsIwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0975.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><br /></b></div><b><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>What is really lovely about this pattern is the neckline. There is an interesting bump in the center front seam. Once on the body it makes a lovely cowl effect as you can see above. It is even better on a real body. It is what sold me on this pattern, so very simple and so very elegant. If you look closely you will see that the entire front is all the tiny leaf motif in the damask. I was able to arrange it so the sleeve received&nbsp;some lovely border treatment on each side. When we think about using panels and border prints it is so universal&nbsp; to stick a big medallion of sorts on center back or center front. Most sewists take that option and think no further. Nothing is written in stone and you can use your panels and tablecloths and borders any way that feels right. It was a challenge&nbsp; to figure out a way to get the small leaves all over the entire front and still have a bit of&nbsp; border on the sleeve edges. I love this sort of fabric play and it feeds my creative soul well. There is no interfacing in this garment anywhere.&nbsp;</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>The funnel neckline had a deep facing that went into the shoulders. I ditch stitched this in the well of the shoulder seam to keep it in place and also in the center front seam but just for an inch or so there.&nbsp;</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>I did do topstitching, mostly on my machine hems. The hems were changed radically from the pattern as well. The original pattern was a bit flared and even all around and a second option offered a band. I did my own thing. For the&nbsp; petite I am, I really like the hi lo hem in tops,&nbsp; but in a&nbsp; more subdued way. It allows for a longer looking leg length in front and covers a bit of bum in the back. I decided to do a shaped front hem and the back hem would be even all across and about an inch and a half longer.&nbsp;</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QrX-bkQt30I/YBf6Q5C-zOI/AAAAAAAARuY/k6b64-3nzdEWgGMNXZNPHKLB_h9vTEYJQCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0909.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QrX-bkQt30I/YBf6Q5C-zOI/AAAAAAAARuY/k6b64-3nzdEWgGMNXZNPHKLB_h9vTEYJQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0909.JPG" width="640" /></a></div></div></b></span><p><br /></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>To do this I used my aged french curve and placed the 19 at the center front seam and moved the other end of the curve to the side seam to where it looked pleasing and was an inch and a half above what I decided the back hemline would be, which frankly, I forget. I drew two&nbsp; lines with my frixion pen. One was at the hem edge to cut and the other at the hem fold. I found this fabric, being all natural and not a tight weave, easy to shape with some steam and heat from the iron. The shape is pretty subtle and more noticeable from the sides. The back hem had the same depth&nbsp;and markings but was straight across the back and longer.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O1Vek0nWuDE/YBf9qoRnqKI/AAAAAAAARuk/ZBkYImGebSo0aEtqXcUfKu-oZW2xuYpDwCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0978.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3087" data-original-width="6000" height="330" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O1Vek0nWuDE/YBf9qoRnqKI/AAAAAAAARuk/ZBkYImGebSo0aEtqXcUfKu-oZW2xuYpDwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h330/DSC_0978.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">The edges were all serged and&nbsp; then topstitched into place.</span></b>&nbsp;&nbsp;</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eD7LrqukYUk/YBf9-vcnTZI/AAAAAAAARus/S0ue-2ZTWWIRSgq2tBYTFOSZFTs8qWgNACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0977.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eD7LrqukYUk/YBf9-vcnTZI/AAAAAAAARus/S0ue-2ZTWWIRSgq2tBYTFOSZFTs8qWgNACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0977.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>The side seam meeting of the hem left the bulk of the hem seam allowance. I pushed it to the back in a wedge shape and secured it down with topstitching that then ran down the edge to meet the back hem and continue, a fun little feature.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>This pattern had sleeves. When I tried on the top early for fit testing, I decided right then and there, no sleeves. This would be an evening sort of top or a summer wear piece. All in all, I think with the fabric I used, a woven, and the design changes I made, I feel it is an original other than the gorgeous McCall's funnel cowl neckline. Let's see...what did I do?</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>&nbsp; &nbsp;* Used a woven when a knit was designated.</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>&nbsp; &nbsp;* Used short sleeves instead of the long sleeve options offered.</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>&nbsp; &nbsp;* Used a Hi-Lo shaped hem instead of the flat or band hem offered</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>&nbsp; &nbsp;* Separated the back into a yoke to utilize my vintage textile to best advantage.&nbsp;<br />&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; The pattern is a solid back with a center back seam all the way. My design has a<br />&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; solid piece with no CB seam in the "skirt" below the yoke. This way I could show&nbsp;<br />&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; a solid flow of beautiful fabric.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>&nbsp; &nbsp;* Added an invisible zipper in the back yoke to accommodate&nbsp;dressing. The pattern&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; is a</b><b>&nbsp;pull over the head design.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>I emphasize all of this with the bullet points to make the point that patterns are just a beginning. It took me years to learn that I could break the rules and move a seamline or actually change a design. I was so afraid those reknown Pattern Police were watching and I was not a beginner. I was just one of the good girls who really didn't break rules. But as I began to look at sewing and fiber work as Art and began practicing other forms of creativity, I&nbsp; realized you really can do what you want, You can create and when you do it is the most wonderful feeling. I am thankful for those years of sewing that I did follow the rules because it laid a great foundation. I often see newer sewists going full tilt into the mash up hack up mode and then throwing the garment out because it didn't come out so well or asking online what is wrong and why is it so awful. We all have to start somewhere. We need to build that foundation by sewing, sewing and sewing some more. We need to learn how to use patterns before we can mash and hack to our best advantage. We also need to remember we are not in a race. The biggest joy of creativity is being "in the zone". Once you've found that, you will never feel like rushing again and will learn that's where the good part is, not in completing the mostest and the fastest. Hope you enjoy my Vintage tablecloth top as much as I did figuring it out and getting it together. .........Bunny</b></span></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-15805063854158943742021-01-12T10:43:00.003-05:002021-01-12T11:22:32.825-05:00The Tea Garden Tee<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cXbvG8oZxh4/X_25ZbXONKI/AAAAAAAARpQ/3ePD7w_EBNIB1mBNh5y8YUlxV85WCmcxACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0888.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cXbvG8oZxh4/X_25ZbXONKI/AAAAAAAARpQ/3ePD7w_EBNIB1mBNh5y8YUlxV85WCmcxACLcBGAsYHQ/w426-h640/DSC_0888.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-weight: 700;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span></div><span style="font-weight: bold;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">&nbsp; The jury is out on this one. I love the fabric and the color isn't too bad. Revisiting an old pattern, however, may not have been the wisest move.&nbsp;</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;">Pattern:</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">This is the Tea Garden Tee from the Sewing Workshop. It's an oldie and I originally purchased it as a required part of a class project back in the early 90s. Knowing little of knits back then, I bought a stable knit with almost no stretch and never wore it as it was too uncomfortable. I did succeed at the machine cutwork which is what the class was about but the top spent its life in a drawer and eventually was donated. My covid life brought the pattern out again. It is a very interesting design as pretty much all of the Sewing Workshop designs are.&nbsp;</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P3aVuVmV_Rc/X_26rVmuL5I/AAAAAAAARpg/pwgCDePUIEAFLRvYI_Hh1ZMf_S50rj8hwCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0900.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P3aVuVmV_Rc/X_26rVmuL5I/AAAAAAAARpg/pwgCDePUIEAFLRvYI_Hh1ZMf_S50rj8hwCLcBGAsYHQ/w426-h640/DSC_0900.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">The entire design consists of two pattern pieces, the blouse bodice and it's underarm gusset. You cut the bodice out twice to get the left and right sides. It has a center back and front seam so you are cutting out the left and right of the pattern with this one piece. It is a trilobal looking affair that I promise you defies any possible attempt at alteration and looks totally different from any top you've ever sewn.&nbsp; You better be a good guesser at the size you might need. I remember my first attempt being tight. I went with a medium. I never sew a medium. I did no alterations other than shortening the sleeves. I was not worried about cup size because of the dolman sleeves.&nbsp;</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;">Fabric:</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">This is made up in a rayon/modal blend. It really is lovely. I decided I needed to jump on the blush pink bandwagon and it seems like a flattering color for my skin. I am just not sure about going all pastel here. I know my own coloring is changing but I am resisting "a certain look" if you know what I mean. The fabric was delightful to sew and more than met the stretch requirements for the pattern.&nbsp;</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L3ZcvCRFbD4/X_29w6ZBj0I/AAAAAAAARps/rmSWwbl8W_ICwQVC-XXpKzoo_D_rK21JQCLcBGAsYHQ/s4959/DSC_0902.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4959" data-original-width="3940" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L3ZcvCRFbD4/X_29w6ZBj0I/AAAAAAAARps/rmSWwbl8W_ICwQVC-XXpKzoo_D_rK21JQCLcBGAsYHQ/w508-h640/DSC_0902.JPG" width="508" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;">Construction:</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">The big selling point on this top is the neckline. I really think it is beautiful. It is made from a combination odd interfacing placement, snipping and pleating. You have to pay attention here. It's not hard, just needs attention I think it is lovely.&nbsp;</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4G4fiMtqiFI/X_2-p7g8aEI/AAAAAAAARp0/sNyoZ9rPtAwqH1RcOgBswgvxPJovttBYQCLcBGAsYHQ/s5350/DSC_0901.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5350" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4G4fiMtqiFI/X_2-p7g8aEI/AAAAAAAARp0/sNyoZ9rPtAwqH1RcOgBswgvxPJovttBYQCLcBGAsYHQ/w476-h640/DSC_0901.JPG" width="476" /></a></div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Here you can see the gusset used to get the dolman effect to the sleeve. It is one huge gusset, very long, going down to the waist and to the elbow. This contributes to a lot of excess wrinkling in the garment, more like sagginess. I am seriously thinking of how I can change that. The front and back head on fit fine.&nbsp; Then there is this pile of wrinkles sagging on the sides. yuck. Maybe I'll just let it go. I don't know.........</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CTRxyQBsNF0/X_2_i_2xcyI/AAAAAAAARp8/bEMZaLvOh00c3eiOYUmIKxWHxn8Z-jacACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0903.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CTRxyQBsNF0/X_2_i_2xcyI/AAAAAAAARp8/bEMZaLvOh00c3eiOYUmIKxWHxn8Z-jacACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0903.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">Here you can see the gusset inside. It wasn't hard to insert at all and the directions were pretty clear.&nbsp;</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6cRbcsI-j6c/X_2_5F2pv-I/AAAAAAAARqE/YeSj-glFTNssV3d4-bgu5oudZtWsydvaACLcBGAsYHQ/s4240/DSC_0905.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2940" data-original-width="4240" height="444" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6cRbcsI-j6c/X_2_5F2pv-I/AAAAAAAARqE/YeSj-glFTNssV3d4-bgu5oudZtWsydvaACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h444/DSC_0905.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Here you can see how I treated all the seams. I really dislike the bulky ridges that serging can add to some knits and this was one of them. I simply pinked all of my seams as that provided the least transfer to the right side. What you see above is also how I treated my hem, my usual, and edgestitch and then more topstitching about an inch above. It is backed with fusible quilt batting tape, all my usual MO.&nbsp;</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">The two pics directly above were really enhanced so you could see the detail. Also forgive the Covid hair. Last time I went to the hairdresser one hour later a customer who tested positive got her hair done and the salon shut down for 14 days. They told me I missed the contact tracing and lockdown by one hour. That was too close for comfort so what you see is what you get! God, I'll be glad when this is over!</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;">In Conclusion:</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">I got this long desired remake out of my system. I love the neckline on this top and will either figure out how to rebuild those sleeves or transfer that neckline to another pattern, the latter being easier I think. The pattern is very unique and not prone to alteration. I loved the fabric and will seek that out again. It was just lovely to work with&nbsp; and wear and I think it sews up nicely. In the end, the Tea Garden Tee is a buyer beware and definitely for the more experienced sewist. Happy Sewing, everyone!.............Bunny</span></div></span><p></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-88038225945600549412021-01-08T09:20:00.007-05:002021-01-08T17:26:47.891-05:00Build an expansion table for your sewing machine!<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YACPXUjfziw/X_hqX1M8raI/AAAAAAAARog/Ak3PC1mhGBUJnXTUk4Qg7oMaxfvFCR4AQCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0871.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YACPXUjfziw/X_hqX1M8raI/AAAAAAAARog/Ak3PC1mhGBUJnXTUk4Qg7oMaxfvFCR4AQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0871.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">I have a nice piece of collage fiber art near completion and I really need a large flat surface to achieve my first attempts at free motion quilting and embroidery on this piece. I began searching for an expansion table for my Pfaff sewing machine online. A 24 x 24 inch table would run me anywhere between 109.00and 200.00 dollars plus shipping. I figured there had to be a better, less expensive&nbsp; way.</span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wTHwZ9RQMsQ/X_O-79IHtaI/AAAAAAAARko/HYCJl0FBOiILhmlkMEmp2VrRJdztAo50QCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0820.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wTHwZ9RQMsQ/X_O-79IHtaI/AAAAAAAARko/HYCJl0FBOiILhmlkMEmp2VrRJdztAo50QCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0820.JPG" width="640" /></span></b></a></div><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">I measured my machine and made up a schematic for a 24 x 18 just to see what the price would be. If it wasn't too bad I would go for the 24 x 24 that I really wanted. I put my mask on and zipped to the big city where our glass guy would surely make me something similar for less money. I knew he worked in plexiglass. I crossed my fingers, made my way through a lot of contractor types and he came out to talk to me. He was very nice. He explained that he couldn't use an acrylic because it was too brittle and would crack when he did the cutting and drilling. He would have to use a "polycarbonate" and said a 1/4inch would be plenty thick enough. I showed him where the red dots you see above would be holes drilled for legs that my husband would attach&nbsp; and that all that needed to be cut was that indentation on the right and some rounded corners. He handed the schematic to his quote person, politely said goodbye and I waited for my quote. $120.00!!! Well, no savings there! I took my blueprint and headed home.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Hubs and I had done a lot of cutting and sawing and minor home improvements together over the past year and were feeling pretty confident that we could make <i>something&nbsp;</i>&nbsp;that would work. I told him it had to be, more than anything, really smooth all over and I explained why. He said no problem and he could sink the screws. Hmmmm.....A big discussion ensued and we decided the two of us together would build this thing. We had no idea how but we would. This is how we've attacked many home projects that have&nbsp; come out successfully, blind as bats and ready to fly.&nbsp;</span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1A6LL2hnxBE/X_PBNfMJbnI/AAAAAAAARk8/ZdKT5sGYqsc9AnW8k9-DlGZ_EsYG4QScQCLcBGAsYHQ/s3993/DSC_0804.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3993" data-original-width="3320" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1A6LL2hnxBE/X_PBNfMJbnI/AAAAAAAARk8/ZdKT5sGYqsc9AnW8k9-DlGZ_EsYG4QScQCLcBGAsYHQ/w532-h640/DSC_0804.JPG" width="532" /></span></b></a></div><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">The next morning we headed out to Lowe's. Our grand bill was $36.25. but could we pull it off? We did. It's not the polycarbonate see through wonder that could probably also serve as a Kevlar shield in a police raid but it is s m o o o o o o t h and fairly attractive. You be the judge but I think it will work fine and it looks pretty nice as well. Here is how we did it.</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Supplies:</span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7WpvmGD5XRU/X_PCkjBQtaI/AAAAAAAARlM/KtnALLTAaiQEOJ_5KfhZvWzMWw73YaDqQCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0803.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7WpvmGD5XRU/X_PCkjBQtaI/AAAAAAAARlM/KtnALLTAaiQEOJ_5KfhZvWzMWw73YaDqQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0803.JPG" width="640" /></span></b></a></div><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">We had no idea what we would use to make our table. We wanted to keep the cutting to a minimum and we were searching for smooth. We talked about buffing the surface with wax as many DIY vloggers did or just painting or staining the table. We walked all over the store looking at all sorts of&nbsp; options we had previously discussed. Then I saw this beauty. They had 24 inch squares of cut plywood with wood veneer on top. This one is a white birch veneer, smooth, tight grain and very pretty. It is all sanded, cut and ready to be made into cabinets.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">I also grabbed a couple of wooden yard sticks for my edge trim. Worked out great.</span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W9TgXk1lPqM/X_PDf4ZaRjI/AAAAAAAARlU/QZ-hQgNoL8UeSYV_G5AomOIWlw8StxOAQCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0814.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W9TgXk1lPqM/X_PDf4ZaRjI/AAAAAAAARlU/QZ-hQgNoL8UeSYV_G5AomOIWlw8StxOAQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0814.JPG" width="640" /></span></b></a></div><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b><p></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">You can get a better idea of the smooth grain here. They had other wood grain choices as well. The rulers will be my edge treatment to cover the plywood edges which were kind of rough. I will sand them down.&nbsp;</span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dD2WtAG8ND4/X_PD6vMsiaI/AAAAAAAARlc/GzrsDNGObD8jOdW4Pmou1V_r-LQy2C58ACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0809.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dD2WtAG8ND4/X_PD6vMsiaI/AAAAAAAARlc/GzrsDNGObD8jOdW4Pmou1V_r-LQy2C58ACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0809.JPG" width="640" /></span></b></a></div><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Here are other things we bought but we did not use them all. More on that later. We found these clear corner bumpers on the far left&nbsp; that come with sticky paper to glue them to the corners of the board. I am not sure I am going to use them. They have a rubbery feel that may cause things to actually catch.&nbsp; I have gotten the corners quite smooth with sanding so will hold those out until I actually use the board and see how the corners work out while FMQing. Next in the middle are those little Scotch pads for under the legs of the table. We didn't know if we'd need those but we did. They brought the table up to perfect level once they were installed under the feet of the table. Also in the center were the flat head screws for the legs.&nbsp; Hubs says he will sink those in and they will flat to the table top. On the right are <i>adjustable </i>furniture glides. You screw them into the legs and then turn them to adjust the height, as they do on appliances. We ended up not using them because the pads were perfect but I can see where these levelers would be great to achieve the&nbsp; perfect height all around. They will go back to the store.&nbsp;</span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9TiZtZCzpdk/X_RpRx1KPTI/AAAAAAAARl4/NhVij1X_2iUFKZ8YmFC3Na3H7b0PbwbxQCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0830.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9TiZtZCzpdk/X_RpRx1KPTI/AAAAAAAARl4/NhVij1X_2iUFKZ8YmFC3Na3H7b0PbwbxQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0830.JPG" width="640" /></span></b></a></div><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">The glue I used for my screw covers and rulers is E6ooo. I learned about this amazing glue when I started jewelry making. It can glue the moon to the earth. The stuff is awesome and I highly recommend. Because I was using a wood surface and did some research, other DIYers suggested a finish of a couple layers of paste wax. I experimented on the cutout scrap and it came out beautifully.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Other things we used :</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Painter's tape&nbsp;<br /></span></b><b><span style="font-size: medium;">220 sand paper<br />Pieces of oaktag/manila folder<br /></span></b><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Clamps<br /></span></b><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Jigsaw<br /></span></b><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Table saw<br /></span></b><b><span style="font-size: medium;">1 1/2 inch dowel, 48 inch is plenty, for legs<br /></span></b><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Kam snaps and they were brilliant!<br /></span></b><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Extra large thumb tacks if you don't have Kam snaps<br /></span></b><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Acrylic paint for touch ups on edges. I used a blend of Vintage white and a pale beige.</span></b></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jEsUtyRCZCM/X_cGOmYEZOI/AAAAAAAARmw/j0AAoQhvhG0mrVpg72_FkBs5EhFTPmDTQCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0833.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jEsUtyRCZCM/X_cGOmYEZOI/AAAAAAAARmw/j0AAoQhvhG0mrVpg72_FkBs5EhFTPmDTQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0833.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b><p></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">&nbsp;</span></b><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Veneer edge banding. At Lowe's this is hanging right next to the 24x24 boards.<br />&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;The veneer banding cost 6.48 so that took our total expenses up to 42.73, still&nbsp; &nbsp; <br />&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;</span></b><b><span style="font-size: medium;">great. There was plenty left over after using as you can see.</span></b><b><span style="font-size: medium;">&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">A brayer or smooth roller.&nbsp;<br />Parchment paper<br />Weights with flat bottoms to weigh down the banding<br />Scissors</span></b></p><p><br /></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Construction:</span></b></p><p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PZw3kVL_OeY/X_PFkA5bpOI/AAAAAAAARlo/LreuJbES7IEneIjfKht4HQYoBSyPvApAQCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0822.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PZw3kVL_OeY/X_PFkA5bpOI/AAAAAAAARlo/LreuJbES7IEneIjfKht4HQYoBSyPvApAQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0822.JPG" width="640" /></span></b></a></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Our first step was to mark the cut out for my machine with masking tape or painters tape and then draw the actual line to be cut on top of the tape. This helps keep the wood from splintering. Make sure you make your cut out WITH THE GRAIN. This is a thin veneer of birch on top of the plywood and it will splinter. The board was clamped to my work table in my studio so it would be stable while he cut. That was the only cutting of the board involved. The tape is removed and you will probably have some rough edges. We will get to those later.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Next, cut your rulers to fit across the front and side edges. You could run them all around but they won't really show so I didn't bother. I did just the front and left side. Glue and clamp your rulers to the front and left side of the board with your clamps&nbsp; and the E6000 glue and leave overnight to dry.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Next day undo your clamps and with your sand paper carefully sand the top of the rulers removing any excess glue and smoothing the edges a tiny bit. It doesn't take much sanding. Be careful not to sand the birch board. You could tape off next to the ruler so you don't sand the board. Sand all the ply wood edges until they are smooth concentrating on the corners. You can end up with a pretty smooth board.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Around the cut out you will see you have some splinters. Sand lightly AWAY from the board only. Sanding toward the board will lift the splinters and make them worse.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">*&nbsp; You have a couple of options now for dealing with the splinters on the cut out. One is to get a little saucer and mix a bit of white and beige paint , go lighter than you think, and with a tiny paint brush, fill in those splinters. With your finger, wipe the paint lightly off the board away from the board. It will leave just enough paint to cover up the underlayer and match better. It's not half bad.&nbsp;</span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1nRe7ihcHVk/X_hizH-axVI/AAAAAAAARnY/xH8TYI9H7joHp8QOQDKQOXH4IIUb7lo3ACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0846.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1nRe7ihcHVk/X_hizH-axVI/AAAAAAAARnY/xH8TYI9H7joHp8QOQDKQOXH4IIUb7lo3ACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0846.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">The next option is the banding and it really was easy to apply. The banding cuts perfectly with a pair of scissors. I have scissors in my sewing room that are just for cutting junk and they worked great on the banding. I cut the strips longer than I needed. Have some weights with smooth bottoms handy. Heat your iron up to a cotton setting and get all of the water out. No Steam! You will need a brayer or smooth roller of some type. These directions are for the mitered cutout.</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Cut the longer side strips about 3 inches longer than needed. Do the same for the center top strip of banding.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Overlap one side strip with the left side of the top band on top,&nbsp; just like you would for sewing bias strips. Mark the top band diagonally.&nbsp; Cut the left side of the top band on this line with your scissors. See the picture above.</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cr9rTjXenx4/X_hj3I6wbRI/AAAAAAAARng/gkUqq-Fgg_IecFKdant3XxXr1XIp9dCSwCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0847.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cr9rTjXenx4/X_hj3I6wbRI/AAAAAAAARng/gkUqq-Fgg_IecFKdant3XxXr1XIp9dCSwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0847.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></b></div><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br />&nbsp;</span></b><p></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Lay that diagonally cut top strip on top of the left side band strip and mark that corner. This will give you the line for diagonally cutting the left side of the top band. The corners will be mitered and should match nicely. The band cuts very easily. Do the same with the right side of the top band. You don't have to do mitered corners but it is a nice touch.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><br /></b></div><b><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PXCLiGolhck/X_hkimhDRkI/AAAAAAAARns/LfsHTNgRdk0unSBdPAYaEX5KyMDFBWnxwCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0852.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PXCLiGolhck/X_hkimhDRkI/AAAAAAAARns/LfsHTNgRdk0unSBdPAYaEX5KyMDFBWnxwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0852.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* With all the bands cut, iron your top band&nbsp; in place first. Place it exactly where you want it on the top part of your cut out. Test the side pieces to make sure it all lines up right then remove them. Put the parchment on top of your top band and place the oaktag next to the band. Top the band with the parchment.&nbsp; Iron with the hot iron. All of these directions are on the package the veneer banding came in.&nbsp; Right after your top band is ironed on, roll the brayer on it back and forth to give it a tight press and then put some weight on top. Go to your sides now. Use this same process. Place, iron, roll, weight.</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5fZj0Q_TLw4/X_hlyjX4orI/AAAAAAAARn4/cKCTTSqHhxkC6PAoIoxp0OxzTCCRwV-MACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0849.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5fZj0Q_TLw4/X_hlyjX4orI/AAAAAAAARn4/cKCTTSqHhxkC6PAoIoxp0OxzTCCRwV-MACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0849.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Iron on your side bands starting at the top. Use weights as needed to keep everything in place. Once the bands are ironed on they don't slip around and are stuck. You can then cut the bottom edges of the band off with the scissors and then give them a light sanding on the edge,<i> away </i>from the board only, just right on the edge. Doesn't it look fabulous? Great product. I'd let this all dry with some weight on it overnight before proceeding further. I then glued more banding on my left side. You can put more banding wherever you want. Awesome product!</span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I8mB413hbVA/X_RvoIefrWI/AAAAAAAARmE/KJVOZnbuUY0Bt3H0eSmTdZhjTfC-kkg5ACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0825.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I8mB413hbVA/X_RvoIefrWI/AAAAAAAARmE/KJVOZnbuUY0Bt3H0eSmTdZhjTfC-kkg5ACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0825.JPG" width="640" /></span></b></a></div><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Time for the legs! This is where marital contention&nbsp; set in.</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">This table has to sit perfectly level with your machine bed or it will drive you insane and totally defeat it purpose of allowing you to smoothly move your fabric under the needle in any direction. We figured we had a bit of fudge factor with the leveling legs or the pads on the bottom of the legs. The pads worked out beautifully and their rubbery surface also kept the table from moving at all. They upped the table to the perfect height. The table also has to be perfectly smooth to function as it should.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Determine within a quarter inch or so the length leg you need. In other words, cut a quarter inch short of the exact length you need for the perfect height. Cut your dowel pieces to that length. We discovered that we only needed 4 legs and in each corner but set back about 3 inches in from the corners, that is except for the leg that went on the narrow piece of the board on the right front. That got set in the middle of that section about and inch and a half in from the end. This table, being plywood, is quite heavy and doesn't move at all.</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Put a bit of painter's tape down where the screws will go for the legs on the top of the board. Drill your holes for the legs through the board. Remove the tape.</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Drill holes in your dowels for the depth of the screws. They are Phillips head screws. My husband remarked that the dowels were very hard to cut and drill through but we got it done.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">*</span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LPvyAVpjz-k/X_Rxzs7UxoI/AAAAAAAARmQ/XOPcfJIiTVgHK9IaO1ZMhOy3jjZ0t1LpACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0828.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LPvyAVpjz-k/X_Rxzs7UxoI/AAAAAAAARmQ/XOPcfJIiTVgHK9IaO1ZMhOy3jjZ0t1LpACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0828.JPG" width="640" /></span></b></a></div><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b><p></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">*&nbsp; Not a good picture but attach your legs to your table. This is where divorce papers were nearly filed. My idea of smooth and my husbands idea surely differed by micrometers but they differed. Finally I just let him "screw" (absolutely no pun ever ever intended) and I achieved a perfect surface over the screws in a different manner.&nbsp; Marriage saved, smiling partners resurfacing once again.</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Check the table now against your machine. More than likely it is and should be a bit short of perfect. This is where we tried the rubber pads and they brought everything to perfect height as well as kept the table from shifting. Use what works for you.&nbsp;</span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3L2cieSA5zw/X_RzprfDLmI/AAAAAAAARmg/sMkMNfXKSpMM2OTJIec1dfR1YK2AmH5vQCLcBGAsYHQ/s5020/DSC_0827.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3507" data-original-width="5020" height="448" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3L2cieSA5zw/X_RzprfDLmI/AAAAAAAARmg/sMkMNfXKSpMM2OTJIec1dfR1YK2AmH5vQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h448/DSC_0827.JPG" width="640" /></span></b></a></div><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">But what about those Kam Snaps, you say? Here you can see the screw in the board and it's bit of raised edge. The Kam snap provides a bit of a very smooth dome but it is a flat sort of dome and not very high. Underneath is the "male" part. If I put it in the screw it was too high. I cut it off about half way and it sunk into the hole perfectly. It had enough length left to sink in the screw and grab onto the glue. Perfect solution, Marriage saved!&nbsp; Just put a blob of E6000 in the screw, press on the Kam snap after snipping the tail down half way&nbsp; and let dry overnight. Next day, solid as a rock and totally smooth and low.&nbsp; It occurred to me today you could also use one of those fancy big thumb tacks they sell in Staples or the book store. You'll need some good wire cutters for those. So there are options for smooth, low profile covers for the screws. Wear some glasses or goggles when you cut these as those little tips fly. Be careful.</span></b></p><p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OZAILCXkgik/X_Rzee4OrtI/AAAAAAAARmc/7whTfW_kDkAgC3xrlDuPWYPC4o0tGZC6wCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0826.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OZAILCXkgik/X_Rzee4OrtI/AAAAAAAARmc/7whTfW_kDkAgC3xrlDuPWYPC4o0tGZC6wCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0826.JPG" width="640" /></span></b></a></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Now it's getting pretty! Back to that wax! You can use Carnuba, Varathane "Finishing Wax", Butcher's Wax. They will all work great and are probably the same thing anyway. Two coats are suggested. It really comes out beautifully. Rub on a good coat of the wax to your table with a clean soft cloth, no lint and leave to dry at least 20 minutes. I left mine overnight at first because I had other things to do. It's OK to walk away. Go back and with a soft cloth buff the heck out of it. It really didn't take much. Now do this again, one more time. Buff, buff, buff. Voila!</span></b></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g0eXwwTfFVs/X_hoEkpkLII/AAAAAAAARoE/BARQ6SmhrpIxaohoaJ042EQoIzRpgSViwCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0854.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g0eXwwTfFVs/X_hoEkpkLII/AAAAAAAARoE/BARQ6SmhrpIxaohoaJ042EQoIzRpgSViwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0854.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">All polished up and pretty! Here she is in her new home.&nbsp;</span></b><p></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MTQfvnTemzg/X_hoVIivwlI/AAAAAAAARoM/v5AYkVh1DtgPPQsSf37qt5QMs33t4q15ACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0859.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MTQfvnTemzg/X_hoVIivwlI/AAAAAAAARoM/v5AYkVh1DtgPPQsSf37qt5QMs33t4q15ACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0859.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><b><br /></b><p></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Here you can see how level the table is to the machine.&nbsp; Perfectly even.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-imByqCIEvCg/X_ho2VapHTI/AAAAAAAARoU/vo5AyQy01LcvOc5beOm5yK5a7ZnLwToeQCLcBGAsYHQ/s5253/DSC_0866.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3587" data-original-width="5253" height="436" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-imByqCIEvCg/X_ho2VapHTI/AAAAAAAARoU/vo5AyQy01LcvOc5beOm5yK5a7ZnLwToeQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h436/DSC_0866.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><span style="font-size: medium;">This has been a really fun project. Would love to hear your comments or if you have any questions. I have been making a blouse on it for most of yesterday and it has felt totally comfortable to work at. I assume that is because I am actually still working at the same level I always am which causes me no pain as it is. For some reason I thought I might need to raise my chair but I didn't. If you build one of these let me know how it turns out. Happy sewing!..................Bunny</span></b><p></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-43410673038362150972021-01-02T08:09:00.001-05:002021-01-02T08:11:12.155-05:00Sewing Onward! Hooray!<p></p><br /><p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kkgJAZE5MGw/XiNocWX7OrI/AAAAAAAAQAU/dDNVwawseEkn9fXnSvS_9F8W5fysuJXxACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/DSC_0733.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1571" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kkgJAZE5MGw/XiNocWX7OrI/AAAAAAAAQAU/dDNVwawseEkn9fXnSvS_9F8W5fysuJXxACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/DSC_0733.JPG" width="624" /></a></p><p><br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">This is the time when many bloggers regale you with tales of how many yards of their fabric stash they have sewn up over the past year. They may tell you how many patterns they have sewn or even purchased. The numbers&nbsp; of tops and skirts and pants tumble forward as they recall their efforts for 2020.&nbsp; Some of those efforts are downright amazing given what 2020 has dealt us. And, some sewists can tell you the THOUSANDS of masks they have sewn and the lives they have touched as we have all experienced this pandemic. My sewing friend and fabulous bagmaker Jill Goldsmith can. She went from making hundreds of masks for those who needed them to fulfilling the needs of hospitals and nursing homes to setting up workrooms throughout Florida.&nbsp; When PPE was at a premium in those early months Jill provided&nbsp; PPE for our precious health care workers as prescribed by the professional health care community. She organized&nbsp; an army in&nbsp; Florida working to provide what was needed in hospitals and nursing homes. Anyone who knows her knows Jill is a force to be reckoned with. She can make a mask. She can make a beautiful bag. She can get masks of high quality out to thousands of professionals and organize an army to help her do that. Jill is amazing and I am so proud to know her. She is a very good friend of my daughters. Jill is now recuperating from surgery on her hands. Any wonder? Need I say more about this angel? These are some of the people that sewing has brought to the fore in 2020, angels like Jill Goldsmith.</span></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">&nbsp;I made masks for friends and family as they needed them. Mask making was hard.&nbsp; I found my isolation and disconnect very difficult. I&nbsp; missed milestones planned and dreamed of for years hard to handle. I had many days of tears coming and going, sleepless nights and anxiety over this pandemic that were further fueled by political unrest and division.&nbsp; I am not like my friend for various reasons. Wish I was. But I powered through and sewing was my comfort. Letting it be my comfort gets&nbsp; and got me through. I am so thankful for that. I have several good friends, met over the years of blogging and sewing that were in the same place as I was. We helped each other through. It was good to know I was not alone. I am in a better place now. 2020 is behind. I am learning about and practicing mindfulness. I like it. I see light at the end of this tunnel but am in the moment and my husband and I are so enjoying each moment as we are blessed with them. So you will get no garment counts here or yards removed from my available resources. Instead will share just a handful of things that I am particularly proud of.&nbsp;</span></b></span></div></div></div><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">I share garments that were challenging to make, that I felt I mastered for whatever reason and that I have worn a lot. They are not hanging in my closet as monuments to my sewing skills. These are the things I have made and really enjoyed wearing.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ps-jLEzOD5c/XzvSXSvedFI/AAAAAAAARE8/274ORUF85GkZFycFinhDjXXMm2MvBYgAQCLcBGAsYHQ/s4620/DSC_0277.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4620" data-original-width="3250" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ps-jLEzOD5c/XzvSXSvedFI/AAAAAAAARE8/274ORUF85GkZFycFinhDjXXMm2MvBYgAQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/DSC_0277.JPG" /></a></p><p><b>I could not wear these flow-y rayon cullottes enough.</b></p><p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OCYZMd_2kGs/Xtubn13lB5I/AAAAAAAAQlM/wWpyW39p4vsOSpc361VienysWrXYTCQkwCK4BGAsYHg/s4094/DSC_0293.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3927" data-original-width="4094" height="614" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OCYZMd_2kGs/Xtubn13lB5I/AAAAAAAAQlM/wWpyW39p4vsOSpc361VienysWrXYTCQkwCK4BGAsYHg/w640-h614/DSC_0293.JPG" width="640" /></a></p><p><b>My cropped linen top ended up being a VERY practical garment and a lot of fun to wear.&nbsp;</b></p><p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D3QeR6RuOAI/Xn0Fqsx7G3I/AAAAAAAAQQg/MveV7-dA2-gvsDAYD_eF3HV8k9_7rqJ0ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/DSC_0977.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><b><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1381" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D3QeR6RuOAI/Xn0Fqsx7G3I/AAAAAAAAQQg/MveV7-dA2-gvsDAYD_eF3HV8k9_7rqJ0ACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/DSC_0977.JPG" width="552" /></b></a></p><p><b>This vest, has become exactly what I wanted it to be, a cuddly, warm throw on. Love this!</b></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><b><i>Some new things I tried in 2020:</i></b></span></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Keep in mind, I've been sewing decades, but I am always learning and discovering new things in sewing. I try to keep my mind open to them all.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Linda Lee of Sewing Workshop showed me on one of her FB videos how to use poly mesh as a lining for flow-y sheer fabrics. Works great! I talk about that<a href="https://www.bukuresep.info/2020/08/rayon-slubs-and-stretch-mesh.html"> here.&nbsp;</a></span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* I made a couple of tanks with shelf bras. I have since learned a better way to make them and will use that new technique next time I do a tank top. Thank you, Whitney of Tom Kat Stitchery.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Made myself my own underwear as in in nice, pretty undies. I am very proud of those. They are so comfy and so much easier to make than I thought. Thank you Megan Nielsen for your <a href="https://megannielsen.com/collections/all-products/products/acacia-underwear-sewing-pattern">free pattern. </a>Fit me perfectly and I love the style.</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* I started using 100% cotton thread for all my wovens and keeping the poly thread for my knits. I fought this for years but Linda Lee convinced me and I decided to experiment. I was not impressed but with the current construction of a white shirt I get it. My topstitching and seams do not have the slightest pucker to them, something inherent to poly threads. Poly threads have a bit of stretch that happens as they are wound on their spools and perfectly flat stitching can sometimes be the sacrifice. For now I will continue with this new lesson learned. I really see the difference on my&nbsp; white shirt.</span></b></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><b><i>Some minor sewing accomplishments in 2020:</i></b></span></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* I began searching out and making&nbsp;clothing with elastic waists. This is more&nbsp; about wearing what is comfortable than anything else. So far, so good. Linda Lee's patterns have great elastic waist designs.</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* I'm discovered new designers in and out of the Big Four. I LOVE Mimi G's patterns. They have details that are so well executed and that are so lacking in 95% of patterns out there. I am sitting on pins and needles right now waiting for one of her OOP designs that is stuck in the mail. Can't wait to get my hands on it.&nbsp; I've also returned to Sewing Workshop designs and really like th<a href="https://www.bukuresep.info/2020/12/a-tale-of-two-pants.html">e Picasso pants </a>that I have made two of already. She has a unique viewpoint to her construction methods and I like it.&nbsp;&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* I made my first pair of real pleated, full legged trousers in years and I absolutely love them. There will be more. So comfy and feminine.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* I've gotten quite utilitarian and resource conscious as I sewed through my queue and then had no where to wear all my pretty clothes. I've made undies, aprons, scarves from leftovers, tank tops from leftovers, pants slips. Is this the equivalent of killing time with sewing? I sure hope not. I really like to be thrifty and mindful of the resources I have and I hate waste. I guess these items are also palate cleansers of a sort.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* Inspired by Peggy Sagers, I tried some of her brilliant cut and sew ideas for wraps and mini ponchos. I love that she shows how these are actual knockoffs of very big ticket designer items. It was a lot of fun making these projects and so easy.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">* I read the entire manual on my newest serger during lockdown. Uh, seems I should have done that a long time ago. I learned a lot. Yes, this was an accomplishment.</span></b></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><b><i>And now 2021 awaits!!!</i></b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>It will be better. I know it will. I have plans.</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* My husband and I are building an extension table for my Pfaff. I priced them and it is no financial issue to buy one but I am sorry I am not paying those ridiculous prices! I did a lot of research, we both hit Lowe's and tomorrow we hope to put it all together. Yay! I'll have a detailed blogpost coming on that.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* I hope to add variety to my creative endeavors in 2021 beyond sewing. I really would like to get into free motion quilting but on art pieces, not quilts. Think landscapes, portraits, still lifes, etc. That is why I want the table!</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* I would like to be more coordinated about my clothing. We will see how far that gets.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* I REALLY want to get into Visible Mending. I have been researching and practicing and it intrigues me intensely. I am waiting for some waste canvas to arrive to help me with that process. Our local shop is without as is Joann's. I can't wait to play with a couple of sweaters I have. It just fascinates me and some of it is so very artistic. High priority on this one.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* Make lots more undies! Just too much fun.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>* At the moment I have no big clothing goals other than the White Shirt I am working on right now that I need badly. I would like to make some cool sweat shirts but I just can't find the right fabric yet. I'm getting closer. With no big clothing goals and no big events on the horizon and a closet full of casual clothes I need to expand my creativity into other areas. I will. I think that will be a wonderful journey of discovery. I will like that.&nbsp;<br /><br />May you all put the old year behind and be blessed with a fabulous, healthy, and creative New Year!!! Love you all!!!...........Bunny</b></span></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com25tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-85774592581029762052020-12-19T07:54:00.003-05:002020-12-19T16:38:45.183-05:00The Acacia Underwear Pattern<p>&nbsp;</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LqWBMyqo-ac/X90vBsyd3zI/AAAAAAAARgY/PX5tKo_LMDIyooDKfP86k1flVjYrSXMHACLcBGAsYHQ/s4275/DSC_0794.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4275" data-original-width="3968" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LqWBMyqo-ac/X90vBsyd3zI/AAAAAAAARgY/PX5tKo_LMDIyooDKfP86k1flVjYrSXMHACLcBGAsYHQ/w594-h640/DSC_0794.JPG" width="594" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><b><span style="font-size: large;">Covid, oh, Covid, what&nbsp; hast thou done to me?</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">My sewing for the past months has been totally&nbsp; influenced by the Covid monster. It has provided lots of time to sew and no where to wear many of the lovelies&nbsp; I have made. It's been an evolution. It started with me attacking my queue of garment dreams and I got a lot of those done. They are still waiting for their public moments. It has continued to evolve to searching out new designers and garments and putting those in the queue. However, my desire to make those garments is often fueled by a future event, a trip, a milestone. None of that is happening with this virus and my interest wanes. But&nbsp; Covid keeps opening it's opportunistic window. The latest is my return to utilitarian sewing. See my recent post<a href="https://www.bukuresep.info/2020/12/buckles-and-velcro-and-zippers-oh-my.html"> here on mending </a>a more technical garment. I have more mending accomplished and will share with you the more interesting achievements as they come along. There aren't many as you know most mending is pretty mundane. I am intrigued by visible mending, however, and have a cashmere sweater awaiting that.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">I've always wanted to make my own undies, not bras, corsets or lingerie, just nice, comfie, well fitting underpants. It's a holdover comfort thing from my childhood. My grandmother made all my undies as a child until she passed away. They were always of fine all cotton batiste,&nbsp; mostly cut on the bias. They were lovely. She would send me back home with a stack at the end of every summer.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">So Covid has rung the bell and called in the teacher and I am learning to make my own undies.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TCZ2kY_W0KA/X90y-BHaMlI/AAAAAAAARgo/wUcJU9LsUUYowD-GPZaWdgp5d5kZYnffQCLcBGAsYHQ/s5006/DSC_0784.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3642" data-original-width="5006" height="466" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TCZ2kY_W0KA/X90y-BHaMlI/AAAAAAAARgo/wUcJU9LsUUYowD-GPZaWdgp5d5kZYnffQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h466/DSC_0784.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">The pattern I used is the <a href="https://megannielsen.com/collections/all-products/products/acacia-underwear-sewing-pattern">Acacia Underwear pattern from Megan Nielsen.</a> It is a free download if you sign up for their newsletter. It will click over to zero dollars when you check out your cart. You can see on the pattern that I added a little bit to the top front and side front.&nbsp; I was actually between sizes and I also prefer my bikinis a little higher cut on the tummy but more on that in a bit. After making the first pair I made the adjustments and committed the pattern&nbsp; to oaktag. It is only the three pieces, front, back and crotch gusset. A suggestion: For me I found it easier to mark the center of each piece, the crotch gusset top and bottom, the back, top and bottom, and the front, top and bottom. I also marked the center of the sides. You can see this in the pink ink on the pattern. I just always do this on any pattern. It is a habit and the way I match pieces together even if they have other markings.&nbsp;</span></b><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>For fabric, this is a scrap keeper's dream. I have three pair to show you and one is an ITY knit, another is a Modal/spandex combo and the third is a cotton/poly knit. With this pattern you cut two crotch gussets, one for the outer side and one for the inner. I like 100% cotton for the inner gusset and use rejected tee shirts for that piece.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eePzDJ45c_E/X91gkyJXhhI/AAAAAAAARhk/7SxG9_aEu7UfUGv3juMAXfHCgfEzCeccQCLcBGAsYHQ/s4620/DSC_0783.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3360" data-original-width="4620" height="291" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eePzDJ45c_E/X91gkyJXhhI/AAAAAAAARhk/7SxG9_aEu7UfUGv3juMAXfHCgfEzCeccQCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h291/DSC_0783.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Don't we all have tee shirts with dreadful logos on them tucked away somewhere? My husband does and he gave me a bunch of never worn white ones. This piece is so small that a couple of tee shirts can make a lot of gussets.&nbsp;</b></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dPVxJAO3Mek/X91Tys6f7eI/AAAAAAAARg0/zHQCxp3L-fQx1WbOkuxcBGG-ajGPz1z8ACLcBGAsYHQ/s4538/DSC_0782.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3509" data-original-width="4538" height="492" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dPVxJAO3Mek/X91Tys6f7eI/AAAAAAAARg0/zHQCxp3L-fQx1WbOkuxcBGG-ajGPz1z8ACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h492/DSC_0782.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>When it came to construction, I went in all sorts of directions, with each of the three having differences.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>First, what inspired me to get going on undies was the<a href="https://youtu.be/i8gPh3egWC8"> Vlog by Tom Kat Stitchery</a>. In it Whitney (last name?) shows 3 different ways to make this pattern from Nielsen. One uses picot edging. another uses foldover elastic and the third, her preference and now mine, uses fabric bands.&nbsp; I learned a lot from her and highly suggest watching this video. She knows her undies. I did watch other vlogs but hers was definitely the most knowledgeable and she's got a very good teaching style.&nbsp; All of her&nbsp; panties were made on the serger and the first had edges of picot trim. Hers were perfect. Mine were not. See the pink pair above. I questioned why she did not insert the leg elastic in the flat. I watched a video that did and decided that was the way to go. It really wasn't and I should have listened to Whitney. I ended up with lumps and bumps.&nbsp; I used the serger and it actually made for a bumpier seam than the triple zigzag on my sewing machine. My skin has become very sensitive lately to anything rubbing or irritating it inside my garments or shoes. I have even worn undies inside out it has bothered me so much. So the next two pair I made on the sewing machine. It just took a little longer, but not much. Another deviation from Whitney that I will stick with is using a triple zigzag to topstitch my bands&nbsp; rather than a plain zigzag which I am sure is also nice. Just my preference.&nbsp;</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>This first pair has a picot edge, easy to install, but you can see I needed a bit more practice with my undie sewing. Next..........</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_5NbOrY_eXo/X91XA6ibYrI/AAAAAAAARhA/3G1kJFNJTH8kx1JqFBio0yMXf62qd_lUgCLcBGAsYHQ/s4747/DSC_0777.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3427" data-original-width="4747" height="460" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_5NbOrY_eXo/X91XA6ibYrI/AAAAAAAARhA/3G1kJFNJTH8kx1JqFBio0yMXf62qd_lUgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h460/DSC_0777.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><b>This pair came out much better.&nbsp; This is the cotton/poly blend, a lot like a nice tee shirt fabric. To trim the edges I used a 2 1/2 inch folded band for the waist and a 1 1/8 in folded bands for the legs. I folded them in half&nbsp; pressed them, and then attached with 1/4 inch seams, RST. I then turned the bands inside and topstitched with the triple zigzag and went slowly. One thing, priceless, that I learned from Linda Lee on her vlog,&nbsp; is to line up the edge of the fold on the leg band with whatever is a 1/4 inch away from your needle.&nbsp; This is on the LEFT of the presser foot. When we sew a seam, we always put the RST, line up the cut edges under the presser foot and line up with something on the right side to get a perfect seam, might be a mark on the machine, a piece of tape, whatever.&nbsp; As you stitch, watch the folded edge of your band on the left.&nbsp; Line it up with something on the left that will put your needle exactly 1/4 inch away from that&nbsp;fold. Duh!!!! The band is what shows, not the seam allowances and this allows it to be sewn perfectly. It really makes a difference as you see above.&nbsp;</b></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>These white pants side seams and crotch were sewn&nbsp; on the machine with&nbsp; a line of straight stitch and then a line of triple zigzag next to it (side seams and crotch gusset). No bumps at all and the stitching laid down very smoothly. I was happy. My skin was happy.&nbsp; The seams had plenty of stretch. The fit with this higher waistband made me happy as well. No need to adjust the pattern at all. I may make my next pair with an even deeper waistband.</b></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mruHPD0G5Sc/X91ban0D-II/AAAAAAAARhM/i-OSIO9pzJ8cIEp0d3Mv7SFau6dIQSG5wCLcBGAsYHQ/s4706/DSC_0774.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3914" data-original-width="4706" height="532" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mruHPD0G5Sc/X91ban0D-II/AAAAAAAARhM/i-OSIO9pzJ8cIEp0d3Mv7SFau6dIQSG5wCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h532/DSC_0774.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>For my third pair I used a poly ITY knit. It really is prettier than the photo shows having sort of a velvety finish. It has the same construction as the white pair except for the legs. On this pair I simply turned and topstitched the legs with a triple Zigzag. I recently bought a bunch of undies and pulled them out to see how they were made. That's all they were on the legs. It will be interesting to wear these and see how the comfort/fit works out. It looks like they will cup my bum but if they don't I may like them anyway.&nbsp; I also figured if I didn't like them this way it would be pretty easy to add on the leg bands.&nbsp;</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Update: This pair is so very comfortable. I cut the leg edges 3/8 inch wide after inspecting my retail panties. These snugged right up and are not moving at all. I will use this technique again, easy peasy.&nbsp;</b></div></span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">This was a really fun ride. I am definitely making more and soon. I now have a bucket under my cutting table just for "undie" scraps. You need so very little to make a pair. I know of some who automatically make a pair when they finish a garment and have enough fabric left over. Great habit to get into and it eats up those odd scraps. Just watch your grainlines.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">The third method Whitney used in her video was foldover elastic. Evidently it is pretty popular for undies but I just don't care for the look so won't be making those. I did order a bunch of elastic lace from <a href="https://www.sewsassy.com/">Sew Sassy Lingerie </a>and it came in today. I will play with that too.&nbsp;</span></b></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">I also learned on this video to "sew in the bowl" something Whitney emphasizes often.&nbsp; I've learned how to eye my needle from the edge of the binding/band/hem fold instead of the seam edge. Most of all, I learned how to make myself some undies. Covid has turned me to more&nbsp;</span></b><b><span style="font-size: medium;">utilitarian sewing lately. Now I am studying up on Visible Mending.</span></b><b><span style="font-size: medium;">&nbsp;</span></b></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">****************************</span></b></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ufOI-oHqcuo/X91ekcRqM6I/AAAAAAAARhY/OHNtCtnZiOQ-Q046jvvMcaSwQvhvuH2CgCLcBGAsYHQ/s4086/DSC_0768.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3980" data-original-width="4086" height="624" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ufOI-oHqcuo/X91ekcRqM6I/AAAAAAAARhY/OHNtCtnZiOQ-Q046jvvMcaSwQvhvuH2CgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h624/DSC_0768.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">LOVE my new Pendleton boots, quite practical for our New England weather! They have labels on the back heel and nice wool lining too! ...Bunny</span></b><p></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-35114951244626039642020-12-14T11:40:00.002-05:002020-12-14T12:40:19.418-05:00Buckles and velcro and zippers, oh, my!<p>&nbsp;PIC</p><p><br /></p><p><b>My latest Covid hiatus is on it's last day today. I have been out since mid November. Tomorrow morning at 4:30AM I will get up&nbsp; and get back to work for 14 days then will be out again for almost three more weeks. Whenever the weather afforded it I was out walking or hiking or working outside. That has come to a stop as it is now so cold and raw. I have been sewing. Many things in my queue have been stitched and of course more await. However, if you are like me, there is a small corner of your sewing space with something that is always awaiting your loving touch and that is mending. I figured it would be a good time to get caught up on the pile but ignore it I did. I continued to delve into the "fun stuff", the items I longed to make and dreamed of all those working, rushing days. Eventually, as my queue lightened, I made a pledge to myself. You know my crazy pledges. I said, "Self, every time you finish a garment, you are going to grab one, JUST ONE, of those things off the mending pile and get it done before you move to the next exciting item in the queue." And I have. Most mending is pretty mundane but I have done a couple of things that I think would be fun to share.&nbsp;</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kvIdh5q_A7k/X9aPun5I6FI/AAAAAAAAReI/TYuDT0rPJVsBEg3LpNC9SuFW8ObikUptQCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0703.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><b><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kvIdh5q_A7k/X9aPun5I6FI/AAAAAAAAReI/TYuDT0rPJVsBEg3LpNC9SuFW8ObikUptQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0703.JPG" width="640" /></b></a></div><b><br /></b><p><b>The first is a pair of ski pants. My kids have been skiing since they were little things. Here in New Hampshire, if you are in the early grades of grammar school, you learn to ski through school. It's hard to remember when they didn't ski and we lived, literally, five minutes from the local slope, a quite good one. Today, they and their families all ski, both downhill and cross country every weekend of the winter and quite into spring. DD passed on to me a pair of ski pants that no longer fit her. For my sewing friends who live in warmer climes, I'd like to share with you the miracle of modern engineering these pants actually are. They don't just keep you warm. They are made to be flexible, warm, comfortable, hold precious things safely, be easy to get in and out of as well as keep you dry. There is velcro, zippers, buckles, snaps, and things I don't even recognize on ski pants. The fabrics are high tech too. Let me give you a little tour and then show you the mend that intimidated me at the start but came out rather well. Above is the fly area.&nbsp;</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wc-f-M66O8U/X9aeBRtZwoI/AAAAAAAAReY/DUTlFjgse6gFSiQCAthI_AZHEQtmuiCNQCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0700.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><b><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wc-f-M66O8U/X9aeBRtZwoI/AAAAAAAAReY/DUTlFjgse6gFSiQCAthI_AZHEQtmuiCNQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0700.JPG" width="640" /></b></a></div><b><br /></b><p><b>In this pic you can see everything is triple topstitched. There are metal loops connected to fabric loops connected to wider fabric loops so that when important things are connected to the loops they are not lost in the speed of the moment. There are closures as you can see on the top left that I don't recognize. There are rivets and there are zipper pockets inside of pockets with more zipper pulls with the ability to hang items off of themselves as well. You can also see the adjustable velcro waist. I know DD liked to snug these up tight when she wore them.&nbsp;</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-naWnCupuODo/X9ae-ezyDEI/AAAAAAAAReg/6OfcTcjDrnES4c4bystYZqy_QGsJTf_LwCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0704.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><b><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-naWnCupuODo/X9ae-ezyDEI/AAAAAAAAReg/6OfcTcjDrnES4c4bystYZqy_QGsJTf_LwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0704.JPG" width="640" /></b></a></div><b><br /></b><p><b>Let's open up that velcro and fly to see what is inside. The waistband is all lined with a rather furry type of facing. Down below that is another layer of fuzzy type lining that goes against one's lower back and legs. You can see these are made by "Marker" and the sizes are clear for several languages, the only one of which I understand&nbsp;is USA size 10. Underneath this lower back flap which I assume is for warmth, you can see the entire pant is lined.&nbsp;</b></p><p><b><br /></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uU2aKzYcQv8/X9af4Tl9V8I/AAAAAAAAReo/tnixC63NkksMH_ehkaZGeapYfYRwIf8XACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0708.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><b><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uU2aKzYcQv8/X9af4Tl9V8I/AAAAAAAAReo/tnixC63NkksMH_ehkaZGeapYfYRwIf8XACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0708.JPG" width="640" /></b></a></div><b><br /></b><p><b>The softer upper lining stops and the more nylon type of lining starts below the crotch.&nbsp; Sorry for DD's lint issues. These are old pants.&nbsp;</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QjsdHGLfJJw/X9bFnbSZ5lI/AAAAAAAARe0/-Np-JgCl-686IU_aK1IZqbwX-W65TGxCgCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0694.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><b><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QjsdHGLfJJw/X9bFnbSZ5lI/AAAAAAAARe0/-Np-JgCl-686IU_aK1IZqbwX-W65TGxCgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0694.JPG" width="640" /></b></a></div><b><br /></b><p><b><br /></b></p><p><b>We've looked on the inside but what is REALLY inside these pants? If we open up those legs there is even more function happening. The outer fabric you see has a waterproof backing integrated into the outer shell fabric. Then there is a layer of poly batt functioning as an interlining to the pants lining for warmth,&nbsp; busy place in there!</b></p><p><b>Let's move on down a bit more, to the spot where I have to do the big mend!</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TguaEL7pWKk/X9eO3iYCEAI/AAAAAAAARfQ/sgqIQIgdabw054yoD_C_y0TNErtg_anXgCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0688.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><b><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TguaEL7pWKk/X9eO3iYCEAI/AAAAAAAARfQ/sgqIQIgdabw054yoD_C_y0TNErtg_anXgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0688.JPG" width="640" /></b></a></div><b><br /></b><p><b>My job is to shorten these pants four inches so I can wear them myself. They also will be well washed when the mending is done so no judgements, please! What we have here is the outer pant. You can see the outseam is triple topstitched all the way down to the zipper. The zip and surrounding lining, interlining and shell all need to be shortened that four inches. Underneath that pant layer is another layer. It consisted of a different fabric that appears to have a black waterproof backing as well. The bottom is gathered into a casing that is topped by a stip of rubberized lines, the better to cling to one's ski boots and prevent any snow from getting through. It is snapped shut but also velcros as well. The outer pant zips down nice and snug over this inner moisture preventer.&nbsp;</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uf5DA60fuqc/X9eQaG4gNJI/AAAAAAAARfc/uDyKnlL4mkYk8GN7Tz7K6tWDOqye0u9mQCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0693.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><b><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uf5DA60fuqc/X9eQaG4gNJI/AAAAAAAARfc/uDyKnlL4mkYk8GN7Tz7K6tWDOqye0u9mQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0693.JPG" width="640" /></b></a></div><b><br /></b><p><b>I marked the cut line of the hem edge and ripped out the zipper stitches with my favorite seam rippper all the way down. The top of the zip was left in place. I cut the zip and the hem off at the cut line that you can see marked. I pinked that edge. The ends of the zip were folded back into the hem space. The hem was triple zigzagged&nbsp;into place and the zipper was topstitched into it's old home, just shorter. Now on to the underpant.</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XJjRTnrer5I/X9eRaEgJVYI/AAAAAAAARfk/9GyM6gdn7l0dZdJR6A0iwbcaXZsBP-8IwCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0697.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><b><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XJjRTnrer5I/X9eRaEgJVYI/AAAAAAAARfk/9GyM6gdn7l0dZdJR6A0iwbcaXZsBP-8IwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0697.JPG" width="640" /></b></a></div><b><br /></b><p><b>For this I went to my classic method for shortening jeans. It is the one where you fold the jean up half the desired length&nbsp;of the shortening. So if you want to shorten the jean 2 inches, you fold it up one inch. Here I needed to shorten the inner hem four inches so I folded it up 2 inches and pinned that in place. As in the jeans, I then sewed right up to the original hem business. Here it is the button tab and rubberized strip. Again I used the triple zigzag. I then pinked off the excess four inches. Done!</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HA5X_3lSQDY/X9eSZ5m9WjI/AAAAAAAARfs/HuE8Hbgx1d4pw2LCsGAGfaoXXe17G2BHwCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0698.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><b><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="266" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HA5X_3lSQDY/X9eSZ5m9WjI/AAAAAAAARfs/HuE8Hbgx1d4pw2LCsGAGfaoXXe17G2BHwCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h266/DSC_0698.JPG" width="400" /></b></a></div><b><br /></b><p><b>Done!</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YNC55ZkJIsY/X9eSrNHVm1I/AAAAAAAARf0/zQ9dM0PPCD0_jCCpI99cRLs0BLwDWrNmACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0699.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><b><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YNC55ZkJIsY/X9eSrNHVm1I/AAAAAAAARf0/zQ9dM0PPCD0_jCCpI99cRLs0BLwDWrNmACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0699.JPG" width="640" /></b></a></div><b><br /></b><p><b>One inner pant leg done!</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ix_Qp9SHfBw/X9eTD1eN7SI/AAAAAAAARf8/z845ZoMXPE4lS5Zof2DOBx6eFs8l-ZOmgCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0764.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><b><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ix_Qp9SHfBw/X9eTD1eN7SI/AAAAAAAARf8/z845ZoMXPE4lS5Zof2DOBx6eFs8l-ZOmgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0764.JPG" width="640" /></b></a></div><b><br /></b><p><b>One pair of ski pants, washed, mended and ready to wear this season. Are you as exhausted as I am? Pardon the crazy wrinkles and waves in a lot of these pics. I had to really over do the contrast to make things visible on the black. The pants are quite lovely now that all that detritis from&nbsp; DD's years of use has been removed. I will be warm and cuddly and ready for our 3 days of supper cold hitting Wednesday. Back to regular sewing and enough of the Mending Pledge for now. I do have another biggy for you&nbsp; but enough already...........................Bunny</b></p><p><b><br /></b></p><p><b><br /></b></p><p><b><br /></b></p><p><b><br /></b></p><p><b><br /></b></p><p><br /></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7871855805349050304.post-36947168573311713642020-12-09T07:59:00.000-05:002020-12-09T07:59:24.939-05:00A Tale of Two Pants<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cCCRz8z7i60/X9BCz9MZ5rI/AAAAAAAARck/jVkJjMiJbb0RihqExNnyvwrm225-UumkACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0722.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cCCRz8z7i60/X9BCz9MZ5rI/AAAAAAAARck/jVkJjMiJbb0RihqExNnyvwrm225-UumkACLcBGAsYHQ/w426-h640/DSC_0722.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Hello, lovelies! Today I have a couple of pants to share with you, not in the best presentation, however. Pardon the blouse, a quick grab from the closet that doesn't work and no longer fits well but my photographer was available and I went with it. Bad camera angle too. Hey, they can't all be Avedon days.&nbsp;</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AeVpW14FxOI/X9BEaU7rwuI/AAAAAAAARc0/yPDWsRdWWzg7z3pZpeR1l9tXHsiOFlLrQCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0732.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AeVpW14FxOI/X9BEaU7rwuI/AAAAAAAARc0/yPDWsRdWWzg7z3pZpeR1l9tXHsiOFlLrQCLcBGAsYHQ/w426-h640/DSC_0732.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>This is the <a href="https://www.sewingworkshop.com/shop/Picasso-Top-and-Pants-p113475563">Picasso Pant </a>from The Sewing Workshop and I really like it. So without further ado...</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://d2j6dbq0eux0bg.cloudfront.net/images/4488033/881941861.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="481" data-original-width="581" src="https://d2j6dbq0eux0bg.cloudfront.net/images/4488033/881941861.jpg" /></a></div><b>It has an elasticated waistband that is flat across the tummy. There are two tucks in the front where the flatness begins and seams down the center legs, front and back. Each leg ends in a shaped band.&nbsp; This is a very easy pattern and goes together quickly. The crotch is long which is usually the case in a wider shaped pant.&nbsp;</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pYHPPKn7ROQ/X9DCZ3olbfI/AAAAAAAARdA/1ePDajlBF-sYxpQ4oTx81YDW15CczCW_QCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0743.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pYHPPKn7ROQ/X9DCZ3olbfI/AAAAAAAARdA/1ePDajlBF-sYxpQ4oTx81YDW15CczCW_QCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0743.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /><b>Here you can see the tucks which I pushed open for you. This leads to one of my suggestions about this pattern. I found between the waistband and the tucks that their release ended up below my tummy and they were therefore way to long for my five foot frame. Next time I make these I will either just leave them as a gather or make the tucks a mere half inch long (preferred).</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>&nbsp;</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>The front band flattens right out when worn.&nbsp;</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Fabrics:</span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KXmTkKXNKnQ/X9DDYih12GI/AAAAAAAARdI/bBmDYKBKNpIxuksHv6cRXzZxY9gbM3m1wCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0744.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KXmTkKXNKnQ/X9DDYih12GI/AAAAAAAARdI/bBmDYKBKNpIxuksHv6cRXzZxY9gbM3m1wCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0744.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RlhHoOrdQSU/X9DDrhjPJWI/AAAAAAAARdQ/mgs5jv_mUisUQQYBS9GgsefIU2IMNkDNQCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0631.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RlhHoOrdQSU/X9DDrhjPJWI/AAAAAAAARdQ/mgs5jv_mUisUQQYBS9GgsefIU2IMNkDNQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0631.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br />First the corduroy: This is a lovely 100% cotton 21 wale cord from Kauffman. I got it at my LQS and it is so soft and yummy. Long story short, I mistakenly put bleach in the wash when I prewashed it. It did not shrink at all but came out looking like it had gone back in time to the Sixties. I was stricken. I spent the next two days playing with paints and stencils and researching dyes. In the end it was just "!@#@!&amp;?!!&amp;&nbsp; it" and I went with what I had. I proceeded to make the pants carefully placing the now carefully and intentionaly (yeah, right) discharge dyed cord in specific areas, mostly close to the bands. I consider it an artistic liberty and will stick with that story. The fabric is so soft and nice.&nbsp;</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-epaqahigyhM/X9DE_x1WkzI/AAAAAAAARdc/g6GLvEaa8vgDsm5NsqM8Scm2Nw7I_z-FACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0626.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-epaqahigyhM/X9DE_x1WkzI/AAAAAAAARdc/g6GLvEaa8vgDsm5NsqM8Scm2Nw7I_z-FACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/DSC_0626.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>The next fabric is also from the LQS and they are getting some great garment fabris in there. I forget who makes it but it is a yarn dyed linen that is a canvas weight. I really fell in love with it. It took four trips before I plunked down my&nbsp; cash but by then I knew it was solid and pants were its future. It is far bulkier than the soft cord and frankly the back waist gathers are fuller because of that but I love the drape this stiffer fabric gives to pants. I put the sharpie in the picture so you could get an idea of the size of the weave. It really is awesome fabric and unique and pricey AND IT RAVELS LIKE CRAZY.&nbsp;</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Construction:</span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Anyone can make these pants. They are really quite easy. Because of the ravelling nature of both fabrics I stitched each seam, then serged together and pressed to the side. Then the seams were topstitched as well. That did emphasize the shaping of those bottom bands which I like. On my first pair, the cords, I automatically took an inch out of the leg and in inch out of the bands. These pants are meant to be cropped. I really did not want them cropped but they are a bit. In the linen pair I made them as sold and for me, at five feet, they came out grazing my ankles which is exactly what I wanted. So, be careful and be sure of your desired leg length before you cut into your fabric. To reiterate, five foot me is at grazing ankle length with no adjustments to the pattern.&nbsp;</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EKBGUYbJL1s/X9DHUQjkkxI/AAAAAAAARdo/fFqJ64tEpoUXtH4AnEIWA4fFmXE2ARQGQCLcBGAsYHQ/s5150/DSC_0718.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5150" data-original-width="4000" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EKBGUYbJL1s/X9DHUQjkkxI/AAAAAAAARdo/fFqJ64tEpoUXtH4AnEIWA4fFmXE2ARQGQCLcBGAsYHQ/w311-h400/DSC_0718.JPG" width="311" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vLlDWcZXcqI/X9DHfqAIg9I/AAAAAAAARds/6AjcyLwlqsICDof9bMlAOw4wo7gA3NL3wCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC_0734.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vLlDWcZXcqI/X9DHfqAIg9I/AAAAAAAARds/6AjcyLwlqsICDof9bMlAOw4wo7gA3NL3wCLcBGAsYHQ/w266-h400/DSC_0734.JPG" width="266" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">In conclusion:</span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>I really like this pattern and will definitely make some linen versions for summer. I can see these working nicely with a tucked in tank top. I highly recommend this pattern for even a beginner. Linda Lee's instructions, as my experience with her patterns has always shown, are impeccable, easy to follow and very clear. I would watch that front tuck and if you are short, shorten that tuck as well. Also know this pattern is sold quite cropped for more average height people. The gray version grazes the ankle on a five foot tall person. Highly recommend............Bunny</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Oh, if you are not watching her, Lee has a live Facebook show on the Sewing Workshop page every Tuesday at 11:00 am. Lots of great sewing info, fair amount of selling, but great fun as well. It is replayed on youtube after..............Bunny</b></div><p></p>Bunnyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.com10